Hey there sorry that it has been so long ...
Trip Start
Jun 29, 1999
1
2
29
Trip End
Dec 04, 1999
Abrams Village,
Prince Edward Island,
Canada
Tuesday, July 13, 1999
Sorry that it has been so long since my last entry but internet access is rare in rural Quebec.
After leaving Ottawa I headed north to a Quebec Provincial Park called La Verendrye which is about 60km northwest of Maniwaki. It was very good driving through the Gatineau hills. I highly recommend the album "The Action Is Go" by Fu Manchu for highway 105 north to Maniwaki. The park was nice but it was stupendously buggy and humid. I was also suffering from a nice scalp skinburn that hindered my sleeping. That night a monster thunderstorm came through the area and the humidity has been comfortable ever since.
Monday, July 5th
I headed down out of the Gatineaus and across the Laurentides and into the flat plains surrounding the St
Route 132 along La Gaspésie in Quebec
. Lawrence River. I skipped Montreal and headed up Highway 40 to a campsite just outside of Quebec City called Lac St. Augustin. About a hour outside of Quebec I had gotten off the highway and followed a smaller two lane road that runs along the river. It was very nice and a precursor to the rest of the week.Tuesday, July 6th
I got in to Quebec City early and spent all day walking around Haute-Ville and Basse-Ville in Vieux Quebec. Quebec is a marvellous city. It is very touristy without being tacky. Everything is done in good taste. Unfortunately the weather wasnt so great. It was overcast all day and it finally started to pour in the late afternoon. By that time I had already seen all I wanted to see (Chateau Frontenac, The Plains of Abraham, Casse-Cou, etc.) so I headed across the river and towards La Gaspesie (the eastern peninsula on the southern side of the St.Lawrence). The rain continued to pour but after surviving the thunderstorm Sunday night I toughed it out in my little tent at a campground in Rimouski.
Wednesday, July 7th
Route 132 in Quebec is one of the most picturesque drives I have ever done. Once past Cap-Chat the road hugs the shoreline, literally
Sunset at seaside cemetary - Mont Carmel, PEI
. There are signs warning drivers to watch out for big waves. In most places the highway is on a man-made piece of land squeezed between the river and the cliffs which rise hundreds of feet above. Drivers have to watch for both big waves and falling rocks. In most of the villages along this road you can still see the effects of the signeury system in town planning. Everyone has a very long skinny lot that reaches out to the river. This makes towns very long and skinny. In most cases the towns all kind of blend together into one long stretch of "Main Street". By early afternoon I had arrived at Forillon National Park. It is at the eastern most tip of La Gaspesie. The camping here is awesome. You have the choice of being on the beach or on a cliff overlooking the ocean (I chose the beach). I hiked to the top of Mont St. Alban from which you could see the towns of Gaspe and Perce and, apparently on a good day, the Island of Anicosti. Forillon looks like the the very edge of the world and I loved it there.Thursday, July 8th
Today was a short drive down to a campsite in Newport. I stopped in Gaspe for breakfast and my French was improved enough that I fooled my server. That only lasted for about 5 minutes though until she started talking really fast and I got that "lost in the glare of the headlights look." Oh yeah, all the McDonalds along the way sell McHomard (McLobster)
The imposing Chateau Frontenac - Quebec City
. I thought it best not to be buying lobster that was under 5 dollars. I also did a quick trip into Perce to see the big rock. It is impressive but the town itself is a giant tourist trap. Most of my day was spent on the beach at Newport.Friday, July 9th
I finally crossed over into New Brunswick. I was getting a little tired of driving through charming fishing villages so I headed to the interior. They have some pretty wild roads that are just used strictly for logging and mining. I drove clear across the province from St. Quentin to Bathurst (138km) without seeing a gas station or even a building. I ended up camping on Miscou Island which is in the northeastern most corner of New Brunswick. It felt very remote. The wind has twisted and stunted all the trees so they resemble frail old men. For a buck you can climb the lighthouse at the northern tip of the island. Do it. That evening my worst fears came true... I locked my keys in my car. Fortunately, the campers on the next site to mine had the toll free number for GM roadside assistance. Francois and Chantal from Montreal provided me with beer and munchies until the towtruck arrived. Then the next morning they made me panackes and bacon for breakfast. Stomach thanked them profusely.
The rock at Percé, Quebec
Saturday, July 10th
It was a pretty crappy day. I drove south through Kougibougouac National Park and on to Moncton. I hung out there until the rain stopped and then headed east again to Shediac where I camped at Parlee Beach. It wasnt very nice. I felt like a Kosovar jammed in there with all the other campers.
Sunday, July 11th
I drove back into Moncton and found a laundromat. Not many things are open on Sunday in Moncton. I found a Chapters bookstore and read some magazines to keep me up to date on the news. I also had a great slice of pizza at King of The Donair in downtown Montcon. If you are ever there grab a slice of this super-duper greasy-fried pizza. In the afternoon I headed to Prince Edward Island via the Confederation Bridge. the bridge wasnt that exciting. The walls were too high so I could not see anything. Apparently the bridge rises to 200 feet above the Northumberland Strait but I couldnt tell. At the end of the bridge is a super tacky "Gateway Village." But in the information booth I found a flyer for a hostel in Cap Egmont (just west of Summerside) that is only costing me 8 bucks a night.
Monday, July 12th
I had a busy day
View atop Mont St. Alban - Forillon Park
. The weather was perfect. It was sunny and 24 degrees. I headed over to Charlottetown and wandering through the old part of town which has been nicely preserved. I also toured through Province House which is the Legislative Assembly for PEI as well as the place where the founding fathers of Canada first agreed upon conferderation in 1864. Then I headed up to Cavendish to see Green Gables. I felt it was my duty as a Canadian to see it. Parks Canada has the place done up like Disneyland and it really put me off. I declined to pay the fee and looked at it from over the fence. Just up the road is the old homestead of Lucy Maud Montgomery which is run by her nephew and his wife. This is what everybody should see because it is where she wrote the Anne of Green Gables books. This place was very informal and it only costs 2 bucks. I then headed over to Summerside and stopped to get my oil changed. I have already put 4000km on my car. Then I stopped at Summerside Golf Club and played 9 holes. My game was nothing special today, I took 4 penalty strokes because the course is deceptively tight and I was still happy to end up with a 46.That is all for now. Hopefully I will have another installment for you when I get to Halifax by the weekend.
Bradley T Hughes
