Barcelona - The Catalonian Capital

Trip Start Feb 15, 2008
1
20
57
Trip End May 31, 2008


Loading Map
Map your own trip!
Map Options
Show trip route
Hide lines
shadow
Where I stayed
Equity Point Hostel

Flag of Spain and Canary Islands  ,
Monday, March 31, 2008

I arrived into Barcelona Saints railway station after scenic and pleasant 4 hour train trip from Valencia. The train line follows the Mediterranean coast for the best part of the trip and offers some stunning views. Barcelona is the capital and most populous city of Catalonia and the second largest city in Spain, with a growing population which is said to be over 7 million. Barcelona is a major economic centre, and is now home to Europe's busiest Mediterranean port. Originally founded as a coastal Roman settlement, Barcelona is today an important cultural centre and a major tourist destination with a rich heritage. Particularly renowned are architectural works of Antoni Gaudí and Lluís Domènech i Montaner that have been designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The official language in Barcelona is Catalan but everyone can also speak the national language which is Castallano (what we refer to as Spanish). In Valencia this is also the case though I didn't hear anyone actually speaking Catalan. It seems that Barcelonans take their heritage seriously as I found all signs in both Catalan and Castallano, I heard it being spoken in the street and I even found an advertisement from the government offering free lessons for anyone wishing to learn their local language Gaudi's Casa Batlo
Gaudi's Casa Batlo
. If you speak Spanish just use that, though if you only speak English you'll be able to get by ok.
Barcelona is full of tourists, possibly since there is so much history, so many beautiful buildings and places of interest to see. I had two full days to see the sights of this city and opted for the 'Barcelona Bus Touristic' as the best option to find all the sites. There are two main routes and you can get a two day pass which works out to be better value. The first day I visited the Placa d'Espanya which is a stunning Palace offering views of Barcelona and the harbour. It was also the setting for the 1929 International Expo and 1992 Olympics. The Olympic stadium is open to the public and it is free to go in and have a quick look inside. I then travelled on the bus to Montjuic Park. The park can be accessed via a Teleferic (cable car). At the top you'll also see a WW2 military fort. You can access the first level of the fort and see the cannons which still remain in place. This location also offers fantastic views of the port and harbour. We next took a trip through to the harbour district. In this location you'll see the inspiring Colon Tower (that's Christopher Columbus) which celebrates his discovery of the new world and overlooks the harbour and foreshore area. The statue can be found at the end of 'The Rumbler's' a popular shopping strip. Infarct the statue is so large that the index finger of Colon is 1 meter in length. It is possible to take an elevator to the top of the tower.
We then passed through the 'Port Olympic' a new for-shore business, retail and residential district before making our way back to the city centre Bacelona Tower... government officers
Bacelona Tower... government officers
. Next stop was the cities Gothic Quarter which was the original Roman site of Barcelona. Until the late 1800's Barcelona was basically confined to the original grid layout developed by the Romans. Some important Roman ruins have been exposed and are available to view under the 'Placa del Rei' and form part of one of the city's most important museums. I went in for a look and the ruins feature a Roman fish processing facility, Clothes dying plant, wine making area and a number of houses; well worth a look. Some of these original Roman walls actually form part of the cathedral which now occupies this site. During the late 1800's and into the early 1900's, with the onset of the industrial revolution, Barcelona's population was growing and the city needed to be expanded. A number of key architects and planners were responsible for the development of the city's current and functional grid pattern.
That night I went on a tapas and flamenco tour which was offered by the hostel. Tapas are just pieces of bread with toppings such as salami, tuna or chicken along with cheese, chillies tomato or other combinations. They're good, nothing for the western palate to be afraid of. The flamenco show was held at another venue not too far away. It was fabulous and featuring live music, singers and of cause the flamenco dancers, first this guy followed by the woman. I think the guy was better but they were both great. We then set off to a nearby night spot that failed to maintain our attention for more than 25 minutes Barcelona Olympic Stadium
Barcelona Olympic Stadium
. I then headed back to the hostel and since I had no idea where I was I decided to take the metro back to 'Pasar del Gacia' which was 3 stops away. While walking the 50 meters from the night spot to the metro I was offered coke once and sex twice, neither of which particular interested me.
The following day I was back to the tourist bus to do the red line and first stop was the most photographed site in Barcelona; Sagrada Família Church with its inspiring 8 steeples towering into the Barcelona skyline. Construction of this remarkable building began in 1889 with Barcelona's most famous architect,  Antoni Gaudi, as its principal project manager. The Church, being the project which Gaudi gave so much passion and time during his life, features Gaudi's trademark irregular forms which are inspired by the natural forms of trees, earth etc. The church is still under construction and to this day Gaudi's original plans and construction techniques are followed. Such building techniques involve the use on reinforced concrete and verniers of decorative stone surfaces. This allows a stronger structure and the creation of irregular forms in locations such as the internal, central columns which resemble trees. The final design will feature an enormous central tower, which will stand much higher than the completed eight steeples. Since work on the Church started, all work has progressed with donated funds, and now the admission fees of tourists. I don't normally like paying to enter churches but this one was an exception Olympic Plaza
Olympic Plaza
. It is well worth the 8 €.
Next stop was Park Güell. Eusebi Güell asked Antoni Gaudí to take care of the construction of a residential park, next to his property. The park was meant to be an upmarket residential development with an English theme though failed due to a complete lack of interest from buyers. This may have been a blessing in disguise as the city later bought it and turned it into a public park. Nowhere else is Gaudi's use of nature to inspire the built form more prelevent than in this park where a series of viaducts support carriageways which traverse the landscape. The columns which support the carriageways feature irregular forms and blend perfectly with the surrounding nature as though they were but one in the same.  This remarkable place offers lots of creative and many coloured details. This park is unique and receives millions of visitors from all around the world. It was declared World Heritage in 1984 by the UNESCO.
I love old trams and funiculars and our next stop had both. Tramvia Blau is a much loved old blue tram which has been in continuous service in Barcelona for just over 100 years. The tramway connects to a funicular railway which will take you up to Tibidabo, the oldest amusement park in Barcelona (1899). The park is quite large and I am told that there are about 30 rides. Rising up over the amusement park is what, in the first instance, I thought was a fake castle (all amusement parks have a castle don't they), but this is not a castle it's a church or a basilica to be exact Palacio Barcelona
Palacio Barcelona
. The Sagrat Cor Church is a modernistic neogothic inspired temple which was started in 1902 by Enric Sagnier and works lasted 60 years. At the top of the temple is a Rio de Jinero style Christ looking out over Barcelona which was the work of artist Frederic Marés. You can take an elevator up to an observation level above the church then climb a number of sets of stairs to the top which is, as I am aware, the highest point in Barcelona. I imagine that the views from here would normally be breathtaking, but on the day I was up there the weather was a bit crappy. Entrance to the basilica is free and offers something of a stark contrast to the noise and commotion of the amusement park outside. Tibidabo also offers a Science Museum with interactive displays which I am told is great.
The last thing we passed on this route was Football Club Barcelona and with a capacity of 100,000 it is the biggest football ground in Europe. I thought the place looked ugly, it's kind of old, probably 1960's, the one in Madrid looks much better. I didn't get out but I'm told that there is a museum inside which displays the 100 year history of the club.
That was it for me, I'd seen Barcelona and tomorrow I was off to Edinburgh via London on the plane.
Slideshow Print this entry