Paracas and the Isla Ballestas

Trip Start Feb 15, 2008
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Trip End May 31, 2008


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Saturday, February 23, 2008

Next it was off to Paracas, gateway to the Islas Ballestas. We got a cab from Punta Hermosa over to the bus stop on the Pan American Highway (this road is a well maintained tollway which runs practically the entire length of the country). The bus took us to Pisco where we changed for Paracas. Pisco was the worst affected area of the August 15th 2007 Peru earthquake which measured 8.0. This city, which is located 260 km southeast of Lima, was about 80% destroyed, and as many as 430 people living there died and 148 of these deaths occurred in a cathedral which collapsed in the city's main square. The city is still in a state of disrepair. Many who have been able to have rebuilt, while others make do in small wooden prefabricated, single room houses or tents and many other buildings remain in the same state as when the earthquake had occurred. Though life for these people, most of whom would have lost people close to them, goes on...  A small bus then took us to Paracas, this trip cost only 2 Soles, takes half an hour and runs along the coast line, making for a great views across the Pacific at sunset Ica Earthquake1
Ica Earthquake1
 .
Paracas is a small seaside town consisting of hostels, restaurants, marina and some fishing trade. The town was also badly affected by the earthquake, though thanks to its truistical importance, it has been almost completely rebuilt. The hostel we stayed at was completely new though I can't recall the name of it. In the morning I took a couple of photos of the paved foreshore strip which show the massive cracks in the ground caused by the quake. I'm told that an earthquake of this magnitude looks just like waves moving across the sea and from the severe damage visible here this was not too difficult to imagine.
Our tour out to see the Islas Ballestas was with Humboldt Expeditions and departed at 8am, which is the better time slot. The Ballestas Islands, considered the "Peruvian Galápagos," are home to an amazing collection of protected species, including huge colonies of sea lions, endangered turtles, Humboldt penguins, red boobies, pelicans, turkey vultures, and red-footed cormorants. The islands are visited by a number of migratory birds and home to resident sea birds that they are known for their production of guano, or bird droppings which are harvested and sold as fertiliser, yes they crap money! The Ballestas are part of the Paracas National Reserve, two-thirds of which is ocean.
The 2 hour tour was spectacular and also passes the mysterious "Candelabra" markings (or "geoglyphs") Ica, earthquake2
Ica, earthquake2
 . Etched into a sloping hill at Pisco Bay on the Peruvian coast, this strange figure looks vaguely like a candlestick; thus, its name "The Candelabra of the Andes." The Candelabra is 595 feet long and can be seen from as far as 12 miles out to sea. Pottery found near the figure has been carbon dated at 200 BC and is assignable to the Paracas Culture. Separated by 130 miles from the Nazca Plain, with its famed giant figures, the Candelabra apparently is not the work of the Nazca people. It is puzzling as to why such a figure would be placed where it could be seen best by sailors. The Candelabra's makers, purpose, and symbology are unknown.
That afternoon we headed back to Pisco then down to Ica, which is the capital of this region and has a population over 200,000. The entire area from Pisco down to Ica was badly affected by the quake. Ica is an important agricultural region, where grapes, cotton, asparagus, olives and wines are produced. We then took a cab from Ica to Huacachina which is like an oasis in the desert. We stayed at 'El Huacachinero' which is a nice hostel with a swimming pool, bar/restaurant and cheeky resident macaw's which serve as an alarm that will wake you at about 5.30am. The hostel also offers dune buggy/sand boarding trips at 40 soles for 2 hours which are a must do!!
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