The last leg

  Le Bec Hellouin, Normandy, France
Friday, June 6, 2008

It was a sunny morning, but definitely cooler than it should be for June. I caught my bread man and we timed it just right to have croissants with our coffee. After a shower and the washing up we packed the van for departure but decided to walk into the town and get a few provisions before we left. We had another coffee in the main square and started looking longingly in estate agents again. It's the sense of community that makes these places so attractive, and the people are so friendly and helpful. England was looming ever closer and it wasn't looking that attractive!

I managed to get my 'Fourgon special' magazine in the newsagents - there are loads more van conversions than you might imagine, but the French seem committed to having the bed permanently in place, which seems like a waste of space to us.

We missed the caretaker but left the money for our pitch at reception, having completed a form left for that purpose. We didn't have electricity and worked out that it was about €9.60

We felt we had made good progress the day before and had the luxury of time, so we abandoned the motorways and chose a few minor roads to cut across country and check out a few different places. We headed north from Vatan and made for the River Cher, turning West and following it to Selles sur Cher. I was convinced I had been there before but when I got there I didn't recognise it at all! If there was time I would have followed the river till I found the place I was thinking of, but Selles was still an attractive place, so give it a look if you get the chance.

We found a nice restaurant in the centre of the town, the Lion d'Or, and enjoyed a 3 course meal for less than the previous days lunch - another bargain. It was too cold to sit out, but all the French love their fags and they can't smoke inside any more either, so they froze outside while we had the place almost to ourselves!

From there we headed up to Blois, but didn't stop, then on to Chateaudun and Chartres. We started to get evening traffic and our progress slowed, but we made it through to Dreux and Evreux, and from there it was just a short hop to Brionne, and on to Le Bec Hellouin.

Pitches at Camping St Nicholas

We stayed there 3 years ago with fellow Bongonauts. The site is run by an elderly couple and they are very welcoming. They shake your hand each time they meet you - and I mean several times a day, not just each year you go there. The lady is also a bit of a control freak. You have to follow her on her electric bike and park exactly where she says, and at the precise angle she thinks will be best for you! She means well, I think.

Our friends connected to electricity but we decided not to have any. This was despite Ralph having only just finished fitting out the Bongo to be able to connect. During the evening the lads got talking and decided Ralph could connect up to the other Bongo and get electricity that way. He did it because he could, not because he needed to! Next day we had some very stern looks from the Camp Commandant, who had seen the cable, and I made Ralph pay up the extra for electric. Since that time we have always referred to this place as 'the camp site where Ralph nicked the electricity'.

I think Ralph had a certain amount of apprehension as we neared Le Bec Hellouin. Anyway, he suggested we check out the camping municipal in the next town, a mile away. This was down by the river and the wind was howling off it, so that was off-putting for a start. Almost all the pitches were static though, and the camper van places were an afterthought on the far side of a field from the facilities. Add to that the gypsy camp which was provided next door to this site, our concerns for our technology sent us straight back to Le Bec Hellouin.

More pitches

The site was one of the busiest we have been on all holiday, and I think it deserves to be. It was under €10 and we didn't have electricity. No, honestly, we didn't have it this time. It was as clean and tidy as we remembered it, and there was plenty of hot water in the roomy facilities. The hedges round the field gave welcome shelter from the cold wind, and we were able to order bread and croissants for the following day.

I would love to go back and spend a week there. There is a lot to keep you occupied - the Abbey, a couple of chateaux, Monets garden at Giverney, Rouen and even Paris if you can face the drivers. Good flat cycling country too, and the river has kayaking, birdwatching and probably fishing for those that want it.