Our first successful circumnavigation of Toulouse

  Vatan, Centre, France
Friday, June 6, 2008

We had a good night's sleep and awoke to a cool breeze and an overcast day.  We stopped just up the road at Pamiers, to fill our tank before the big slog north. Today was the day for doing the toll roads, to get as far as possible with the least time travelling.

We travelled towards Toulouse and met our first ticket machine about halfway there.  Just before Toulouse the paying part ended and we paid our first toll.  We stayed on the same road, and found little problem in avoiding Toulouse, for once.  On other occasions, we've hit Toulouse before we could find this bit of road, and have always found ourselves trapped in a confusing road system.  The signs only referred to local places, suburbs too small to feature on our map.  As far as I can tell Toulousians have never heard of Foix, Cahors or even Paris.

On the other side of Toulouse, we stayed on the motorway and made for Cahors.  We arrived just in time for lunch and spotted an attractive looking restaurant beside the river.  We thought parking would be a challenge but we crossed a nearby bridge, taking us over the river and away from the town, and found a place beside the river, almost opposite the restaurant.  It took about 5 minutes to walk back, and there were some free tables, so we settled in. 

Absolutely divine food.  We had 2 courses from the menu of the day, a carafe of water and a carafe of rose, followed by coffee and it cost about £25.  I had a provencal stuffed chicken breast with hash brown potatoes, though to call them that does no justice to them.  They were light, fluffy, delicate and moist, and perfectly cooked.  For pudding I had a lemon cheesecake, but again, the name does not reflect the lightness of the dish.  You couldn't wish for anything less like Sarah Lee.  It was the kind of food that costs a fortune in London and just doesn't exist in Bournemouth.

While we were eating, we noticed a small shuttle bus going backwards and forwards.  It advertised itself as free for people from the park and ride going into town.  When we returned to the van we saw a sign for the park and ride carpark.  It too was free.  So, if you don't clog up Cahors with your car they will happily give you free parking and free transport in, because they get the benefit of your custom.  Could someone explain that simple concept to UK councillors, please?  And while you are at it, remind them that they are public servants, and not our masters.

After lunch we filled up the Bongo (diesel, bread and wine), and hit the road again.  Before they opened the new bit of motorway Ralph hated this part of the drive.  The road from Cahors to Brive was bendy, treacherous and exhausting.  The toll on this part is worth every penny.  We paid a toll 3 times that day and the total was about €18, which we think is money well spent.  We've never really done the maths but think we spend less fuel in queues and at lights, so it's not as dear as it seems. 

Motorway driving can be boring, so I stuck my nose in the camper van magazine I bought in Collioure.  I found out that there are a number of French van conversion campers.  They call them fourgons, and they are mainly long wheelbase Peugeot Boxers or Fiat Ducatos.  I also discovered that this particular magazine had brought out a special supplement with 'all the fourgons - everything you need to know'.  I decided to hunt it down before we got home.

Vatan camping Municipal

It was a long plod after that, and from about 5pm I started looking for likely camp sites.  Vatan was an obvious choice.  The motorway ran straight towards it and veered to the east just before it got there.  The slip road carried straight on, into the town.  The Michelin map had the black triangle we depend on in France, so we came off the main road and immediately saw the sign for Camping Municipal.  We followed it into the centre of the town and just past the crossroads we saw a sign pointing to the left.  Following this took us out of the town almost immediately and we realised we had gone wrong.  We turned round and drove slowly back the way we came.  Looking up  one of the roads that joined our road I finally saw the sign, about 100 yards back from the junction - you've got to have your wits about you sometimes!

Vatan lake

The reception was shut but, following normal practice, we left the Bongo at the entrance and went on foot to inspect the site.  We met a Dutch couple who were very enthusiastic about the place and told us where the showers and available pitches were.  It's a really nice site.  The toilet block is clean and the water is warm.  There is a lake beside the camp site and some interesting bird life for all the twitchers among you.  The pitches are very tidy, with thick green grass and dense beech hedges dividing each one.  We picked our spot with a glimpse of the lake but complete privacy from all the other campers, and managed to get a few rays of sun before it set.

The shower block

I found out there is a bread delivery each morning so made a mental note to be up and about by 8am (I normally am anyway).  After the long journey we are turning in early for the final part of the trip tomorrow.

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