The Yellowstone Road

Trip Start Aug 04, 2008
1
6
90
Trip End Ongoing


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Flag of United States  , Wyoming,
Sunday, August 10, 2008

The rain finally caught up to me today. On another empty road I saw the clouds gathering to the north. It looked like I was going to be okay since I was going west then a bit south, but every now and then the road - route 20 - would bend north. "What are you DOING?" I would say. Then I missed a turnoff, and I was indeed heading north. It got dark and windy and started spitting rain. On the plains, the weather rules, and everything else - especially bikers - adjust. Finally I was getting too cold and a bit wet so I pulled over to put on my fleece and rain liner, ducking next to my bike for shelter. When I gotback on the road, 1/2 mile later I saw a sign - Rest Area 1/2 Mile. Then it cleared up. Very freaking funny.

Next up was the grand entrance into Yellowstone, by way of the Beartooth Highway, which is a VERY winding road that runs through the Beartooth Pass in the Absaroka Range at 10,947 ft Beartooth Highway
Beartooth Highway
. We had some crosswinds and some rain, but generally made it in good stead. I'd hate to be up there on a bad day. There are still a lot of Harleys on the road, as the Sturgis crows radiates outward to make the most of their excursion, and show off their new T-shirts.

Once in the park, the question was: where to camp? At thispoint time I ran into a friendly guy outside the Canyon Junction store, also traveling alone. His name was Norm and he was heading back to Salinas, CA from Sturgis on his Harley V-Rod. He suggested I check out Pebble Creek in the northeast section, where he was staying, and if it was full he'd share his campsite with me. I thanked him and took him up on this, and he said he'd see me there later.

Pebble Creek is a great campground in the Lamar Valley, which is known for its natural beauty, as opposed to geysers - it's all fly fishing rivers and streams, and herds of buffalo. Ranger Ray toldme thatthey did indeed have a tent lot left, and I dropped $24 for a 2 day stay. Norm rolled in a couple of hours later, and we hung out that evening just chatting.

So Norm set me straight on Sturgis. He said there were a lot of old guys there, but young guys - and chicks - as well Mountain Lake
Mountain Lake
. They were all out at the Buffalo Chip, outside of Sturgis.

A guy at the Badlands campground had told me about the Chip. It's a huge fenced-off grasss field that is converted to a festival and campground for bikers, in the tens of thousands. I was in the bike line to get in when I decided that if I did I'd never make it back, so I headed back downtown (A little been-there-done-that, a little rational, and a little chicken. Where wermyfriends to talk me into it when I needed them?). Within that fence, all varieties of two-wheeled and variously clad mayhem ensued - for about a solid week. Norm reported crazy partying, gruesome accidents, and generallly a scene to be witnessed. Music was provided by ZZ Top and Kid Rock, among others. Thanks for setting me straight, Norm - Sturgis lives on, and changes for the better and the worse, as do most things.
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