Lovely lovely Valpo
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You can take (very) long and steep steps up each cero or (our preferred method) take extremely old and rickety funiculars up to each peak.
We did a fabulous walking tour of this place accompanied all the way by a black dog that apparently follows every walking tour they do as part of its daily routine
We met an Irish girl, Elaine, on the tour and two local guys she was staying with, Ducon and Camilo who showed us a night out Chilean style (starting at 11pm with pisco sours and finishing at 5am). We introduced the karaoke bar to Tracie's sweet tones and Bob's Romeo and Juliette Dire Straits rendition. We're not sure they were ready for it!
We recovered the next day with the heart-busting "chorrillana" - a shared plate of chips, piled with fried onions, scrambled egg, sausage, meat and cheese. Wowser!
Definitely a highlight of the trip so far.