Weekend in the Pink City
Trip Start
Oct 01, 2007
1
28
33
Trip End
Apr 21, 2008
Jaipur,
India
Friday, March 14, 2008
Given you can spend a month at least exploring this wonderful state of Rajasthan, I thought sticking to my plan was a good idea. Jaipur is known as the Pink City and is located in the state of Rajasthan, the land of the Maharajas. I am so excited to be here I could spit...which in this country would not be rude at all
City Palace
! All those old movies, not to mention the exhibit my sister and I saw at the Met a few years ago (one of the most amazing things I have seen...I want a sword encrusted in rubies and emeralds with a gold hilt). I have secretly harbored strong feelings for all things Maharaj related - though I feel it is my grown-up (sorta) civic-minded feminist duty to state, women are NOT objects, animals should not be painted and dressed up like dolls and why so much violence, it truly is too hot to fight here boys. So, I checked into the Sheraton Rajputana Friday night. Wow, this place is beautiful. The attention to detail is great and the breakfast buffet (included) is great. I have been trying all sorts of new Indian foods (at the bright old hour of 8am) and they are explaining them to me and how to eat them and what to eat them with. That with an omelet tossed in for safe-keeping is keeping me going through out long hot days of site seeing. There are a LOT of big tour groups here and many start in my hotel. Most of the clientele appears to European and communicating with them is not really an option. Plus they seem really focused on not keeling over with heat stroke. I decided to hire a car through the hotel for a half day's adventure on Saturday...if I wasn't alone, I would have been more adventurous but...since it was really cheap (God, I hope my conversion is right!) and that way I didn't have to keep worrying about getting a taxi or rickshaw
City Palace (b)
. Plus I also kept my poor mother in mind after last Sunday and the fact she thinks I have contracted the plague. First place I head to is the Albert Museum. It is closed. Huh? And my driver didn't know this?? I was starting to get a bit worried how the rest of the day was going to progress but tried my new technique of breathing in, breathing out and moving on..thanks Jimmy Buffett for the great song! And off we were to the old city and City Palace. After being accosted with guys wanting to be my guide, I extracted myself from them (I have done my reading and prefer to explore the sites by myself unless I would totally miss the experience - like Jantar Mantar - it is much easier (for me) and 100% more relaxing). They have their pre-planned speech and course and tend to move fast. Plus my guide book is good and actually gives you a walking tour through these bigger monuments. So I wandered and enjoyed. Beautiful..and they had a museum that would have made the women of the Upper East Side of New York City pea green with envy. There was a baby swing that was made of sandalwood and gold, though I had a hard time finding any sandalwood. Talk about being set up for failure when your baby swing costs more than your first house! The current Maharaj still resides here in a private section and is affectionately (I presume) known as "Bubbles."After this, I walked across the street and headed to Jantar Mantar an outdoor observatory built in 1726 by Jai Singh II
puppets
. I took one look at it and decided I needed a guide to explain how all the stuff worked. It was really interesting but I know why my guide book says not visit it at noon..whew. After this I headed to Hawa Mahal, a house built on the main drag so that the women could hang out and not be seen but see what was going on. It was undergoing a major renovation but was still worth a stop and there were vendors outside so I could get some much needed cold water. I had completed my site seeing agenda and the next thing on my list was shopping. I didn't get as much done the last time I was India so this time I am going all out. Unfortunately my driver took me to those one stop for everything government owned tourist places that I hate. Still, I thought I would give it a try..not. I didn't even make it in the door before I turned around. Not having names of specific places (my fault) I tried to explain what I was looking for. I didn't think we communicated all that well but he did come through with the local market I was looking for and I spent the next hour or so walking around the Bapu Bazaar. I got a few things and headed back to the hotel. I spent the next bit at the hotel bar rediscovering my love of the local beer that I had discovered the night before - Cobra. Then it was on to watch some local dancing and having dinner at Peswhari, the hotel's Tandoori restaurant. Oh my...I had the best dinner (see live, love, laugh ...eat) of tandoori shrimp. I was pretty beat after this and just chilled. I had plans to get up early..really early for a Sunday to get to the next destination on my list
City Palace (c)
.Sunday 6:30 am (see I told you it was early) - I am on the move again. I arranged another car and headed to see the 3 Forts of Jaipur. I got an early start due to the heat and the fact that I wanted to take the option of riding an elephant up to the Fort. By noon it is too hot for them and than you have to hoof it. If it is too hot for the 'phants it would be too hot for me! I got to Amer Fort & Palace right after about 500 tour buses and the line for the elephants was long and already surprising hot. The amount of "outdoor salesmen" was shameful but eventually, I made it to the front of the line and got my elephant ride. Muna was my driver and my fearless stead was Chumpa. We climbed and climbed all the way to the top of the Fort. Amer Fort & Palace was built starting in 1592 and is amazing as are its breath taking views. I spent the next several hours there and opted for the audio tour I had read about in the Time Out Jaipur magazine, while enjoying my new found Cobra beer in the hotel bar Friday night. After fending off more guides than I care to mention, I knew my decision was correct. The audio guide (150 rupees) was great. Complete with period music and "friends" it was great , extremely easy to understand and really guided me through the huge fort.
By the time I was done (and after I purchased a nifty hat), I realized I had no earthly desire to go look at 2 more forts and instead decided to go shopping and for a snack
Jantar Mantar
. Today I was prepared and super excited to have seen the very shop I wanted to go to on the way to the Fort. This region is known for its blue pottery and being a pottery lover, I knew I was going to have to get me some. After spending 4000 rupees on pottery and having an anxiety attack as to how I was going to get this to Mumbai tomorrow and anywhere after that, I decided to hit this lassi spot on the way back to the hotel. Kisan lal Goving Narayan Agrawal Lassiswallah is supposedly the spot in Jaipur to get a lassi and no visit complete without one. So, I put aside my fear of street food (only due to all the problems I have had with my stomach in India) and decided I would take one for the team. The place was easy to spot among the line of lassi shops and with the help of some guys also buying lassis I secured a small sweet lassi for 10 rupees. It was my first and was so good. I drank it out of the clay cup it came in in the blazing Jaipur sun. An experience I will not soon forget. After this, I headed back to the hotel to regroup and relax by the pool. This place is like an oasis and I intended to take advantage of this since I have no spot in NYC (at least that I can afford) that would give me this opportunity. I am off to Mumbai tomorrow...see you there. Brandy
