In Khorog

Trip Start Nov 14, 2007
Trip End Apr 20, 2009

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Flag of Tajikistan  ,
Thursday, August 28, 2008

We are now in Khorog in the Gorno-Badakshan region of Tajikistan on the Tajik-Afghan border.

This is half time in our tour through Tajikistan.

Since the 18th we have been travelling across the Pamir Mountain Range- one the most epic landscapes that we have come across. The Pamirs are ostenisbly a high altitude desert plateau which bottoms out at about 3500m and rises in peaks to 7000m+. Within it are many yawning valleys, crystal lakes and shimmmering glaciers. (We had a brief 3 day encounter with the Eastern Pamirs when we crossed the Khunjerab pass into China about 7 weeks ago.)

The highlight of the journey was probably the days we spent traveling down the Wakhan Valley. The Wakhan is quite surreal because 'over there' is afghanistan, and it looks indistguishable from your side of the river. For several hundred kilometres we tracked alongside the Panj river- the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. For a border of such significance it was a surprise to find that it offered little more than the gap between Guildford and Caversham. ie - not much.

But the Wakhan continually surprised us. Though extremely desolate it had impressive strips of wheatfields and orchards along the river edge which support an equally impressive amount of villages. We indulged in more than one hot spring, the Bibi Fatima hot spring being the best of the lot.

The hospitality we received was amazing and the food incredible. We had anticipated slightly bland food on this part of the trip but were surprised with fried fish, excellent borsch, jams and fruit just to name a few things.

For the moment we plan to lay low in Khorog (which already seems a very beautiful town) for a few days before heading on to Dushanbe, the Tajik capital.

Also, we were fortunate enough to share the journey (and the cost of the jeep) with a Canadian couple (Taco + Lara) and a Japanese bloke(Kei). We loved their company and look forward to meeting them in another part of the world at future time!

We will do our best to get some pics up on the blog, but like in Kyrgyzstan, things are on the slow side here. Thanks all, we'll post again soon!

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