Day 5 - 27 Dec 2007 (Part One)
Trip Start
Dec 23, 2007
1
5
16
Trip End
Jan 07, 2008
Fes,
Morocco
Sunday, March 30, 2008
It was our second day in Fes and one I was particularly looking forward to . After viewing Fes El Bali (the old city) from the North Borg tower yesterday afternoon, we were going inside the walls of the infamous Medina. Horror stories abound concerning this massive maze of narrow streets and alleyways and we were all instructed that for once we had to stick together without exception. People had been known to enter the Medina and never come out and you only had to look around you to appreciate how this could be so. A medieval maze of narrow passages, linking mosques, Riads, food markets and magical bazaars displaying the most beautiful treasures, unfolded before my eyes. Craft areas where the weavers were producing the most divine silk throws, and the fabulous brass and copperware bazaar was a revelation
Above Tannery
. Craftwork made in Fes Medina is considered to be the best in Morocco. The Medina is believed to be the world's largest car free urban zone which must be a relief to the countless donkeys stumbling along with everything from concrete blocks to huge fridge freezers strapped to their little backs. Broke my heart to see it. To come here at night would be out of the question. Our local guide in Fes was Morocco's answer to Del Boy so that is what I will call him as his name escapes me now. Del Boy would be leading us through the Medina and Mohammed would be at the back ensuring that nobody strayed. We must have spent a good four hours exploring and poor Mohammed never stopped counting heads the whole time! It must have been a nightmare for him as there were 14 women in our group, all in ecstasy at the endless collections of colourful wares on display - handbags, shoes, scarves, jewellery and more. So spellbound with the thought of a purchase were we, that we kept forgetting the order not to stray , which resulted in the ever patient Mohammed gently herding us back into line like a well trained sheep dog.
Del Boy was in his element striding out in front, knowing every twist and turn of the Medina like the back of his hand. He was a frustrated performer we decided, who just lived for an audience. Strutting along wearing his jellaba, fez and Ali Baba slippers, his voice boomed out endlessly, to a largely indifferent audience
Bakery
. The guys in the group seemed to be listening but us girlies were in handbag heaven and oblivious to his performance. We admired beautiful Riads, mosques (from the outside only) and the Dar Bartha museum, a former palace, now the Museum of Moroccan Art. On we walked until Del Boy suddenly came to a halt. We had arrived at the Souk Dabbaghin House which is home to the Fes Tannery. It just looked like countless other buildings in the Medina, several stories of dilapidated terracotta coloured walls, small tatty windows and a heavy looking wooden door. An old lady was sitting by the door with a huge basket full of sprigs of mint. Del Boy indicated we should enter and as we followed, the lady handed us small bunches of the mint, much to our bewilderment.. We climbed several flights of stairs, and the higher we climbed the reason for the mint became more apparent. The smell of the tannery was pretty powerful and not at all pleasant. If it smelt like this on a December morning, just how unbearable must it be in the height of summer? We finally got to the top floor and followed Del Boy through several rooms, all stocked from floor to ceiling with hundreds of the most beautiful leather bags in every colour of the rainbow. Gasps of delight from the girlies - groans from the guys! Suddenly we were out on a verandah overlooking the rooftops of the Medina. The sun was shining and the air was pungent. Looking over the balcony rewarded us with the most amazing sight
Boy at window
. It was like a giant artist's pallet. The famous pools of dye where they colour the leather, were an awesome spectacle to behold but the disgusting combination of odours almost made me gag. Pigeon poo, cow urine, fish oils, animal fats and brains, chromium salts and sulphuric acids are all used to make the hides supple. From our vantage point we could see the whole process of this craft which has remained unchanged for hundreds of years. The new skins arrive carried by donkeys, and are placed in the white vats to soak in a mixture of water and lime in order to remove the hairs and flesh. Then they are hung high on the walls to dry. When dry they are then placed into one of the many coloured dye vats. The brilliant yellow dye is from milled pomegranate bark, the cinnamon colour dye is from the Tamarisk fruit and so on.
As I looked up from the sight of this process below me which remains unchanged after all those years, my eyes took in the hundreds of satellite dishes sprouting from the rooftops of the surrounding houses. What a contrast - ancient meets modern.
We were then allowed to wander around the shop and buy, if the fancy took us. This is where I came into my own and became known as a Berber for my haggling skills. I had practiced haggling on my previous travels and was very accomplished at it.
This led to my fellow travellers requesting I accompanied them throughout the rest of the tour, when they were looking to buy rugs etc, to bargain on their behalf. Should have charged commission! Kim ended up buying a bright pink leather bag which was beautiful. I had set my heart on a cute black leather backpack type bag and acquired it for a very good price after a good bout of haggling.
Del Boy at Riad Door with Hand of Fatima knocker
All too soon we were led back out of the tannery bazaar and back into the Medina, to follow Del Boy as he led us back through the maze of streets, to our coach which was waiting to take us back to the hotel. This afternoon was going to be free time in Fes to do whatever we wanted. Some chose just to chill in their rooms for a while, others decided to do some shopping, some wanted to visit museums etc and I decided to visit the Hammam. But that's another story.........A word of warning when you buy leather goods in Morocco, ALWAYS smell them first! My bag was swiftly wrapped up and handed to me, and I popped it inside my backpack. Later that evening in my hotel room, I could smell a peculiar odour. On investigation I discovered it was my new handbag. It truly smelt awful and when I remembered all the disgusting things they use on the leather at the tannery, I understood why.
Despite efforts to kill the smell since getting the bag home, it remains determinedly evident. I can only come to the conclusion that I have bought a bag made from camel sphincter!
The smells, colours, sounds and tastes were woven together in a rich tapestry in my head as we left the Medina.
