Nin come Trogir

Trip Start Jun 03, 2010
Trip End May 28, 2011

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Where I stayed
Camping Seget

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Monday, September 13, 2010

September 12, 2010

Headed north from Zadar toward the town of Nin and the island of Vir. Given the continuing fine weather we were in search of some naturist beaches in the area. We never did find them… it seems development had overtaken them… but we did have a couple of nice bike rides along some of the charming waterfronts. We ended up at a small and peaceful campground right on the edge of the beach on the island of Vir. Can't say the island itself is anything special… it seems to consist of boring looking modernish small villas and apartment blocks with fat Germans blobbed along the beachfronts, the town is boring little cafes and pizza patios with tacky souvenir shops. But it was lovely relaxing on the beach here at the campground, and the pizza at the boring pizza joint was not half bad.

September 13, 2010

It was a lovely peaceful night at that campground, and in the morning instead of our usual Muesli and yogurt breakfast, we bicycled into the town of Vir and picked up Croissants.

Then we set off south towards Split. Along the way we stopped at Sebenik, a lovely little seaside town on this Dalmation Coast. It is famous for its St Jacob’s Cathedral, a particularly beautiful renaissance church, built all from stone, and with some very interesting features such as the 71 unique faces carved all around the church (see photo).

We were delightfully surprised to find that the town itself was as beautiful as the church, with extensive narrow cobbled alleyways, a monastery,with a bright little garden, a bustling waterfront with yachts and tour groups, a small fisherman’s harbour, and the obligatory castle.

This evening we are at Seget Camping just short of Trogir, which is just 7 or 8 kms short of Split. We rode our bikes into Trogir late afternoon to have a quick look around. It is a tiny renaissance town jammed onto a tiny little island. This whole area is swarming with huge yachts, and they are abundant around Trogir as well… but the town itself is walled, and has crenellated towers around it.

The plan is to go back in tomorrow for a better look, and explore beyond the small town onto the bigger island behind it as time allows. There seems to be a passenger ferry from Trogir to Split, so we expect to stay here another day and ferry over to Split for a good look at that old Roman fortress and town.

The campground here is within sight of Trogir, right on the water’s edge with a nice gravel beach. It is still on the expensive side…. about $34 per night… I guess that is expected for waterfront.

September 14

We bicycled into Trogir this morning for a good look around. It is a delightful little town, on Roman foundations with marble stone streets and medieval buildings with narrow little laneways, and all surrounded by a waterfront walkway with huge yachts mixed with little fishingboats and passenger ferries.

The plan to bike ride beyond Trogir fell flat when we returned to where our bikes where tied up to find my back tire was pooped. Back tires on a quick release axle are still not as easy to fix as front tires, and I had no patches nor tools with me. So, I took Pat’s bike and rode the 30 minute round trip back to the campsite to retrieve the kit and tools. Upon return to the bikes, I still was unable to fix the tire for a couple of reasons… first it was hard to find the leak, and second, the tie was filled was some kind of messy green fluid! I can’t figure out what it is… I guess at some pump or other there was some kind of tire preservative injected. So, the only choice was to walk the bikes back to the campground… about a 25 minute walk in midday heat. Fortunately we had a lovely beach to have a swim before having to proceed with the tire work. All went smoothly in patching the leak from that point, as I has paper towels for the mess, and water to test for the leak.

To reward ourselves for the "punctured" afternoon plans, we biked up the beach a bit to a tiny fishing town with a lovely outdoor restaurant and had a dinner of mixed fish grill, a scampi risotti, and a bottle of local red wine.
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