Koh Lipe

Trip Start Jan 18, 2006
Trip End Dec 17, 2006

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Saturday, March 25, 2006

March 24, 2006

I am on the island of Koh Lipe which is near the Malaysian border on the Andaman coast of Thailand. I arrived here on Tuesday after taking a 14 hour train from Bangkok, followed by a 2 hour bus ride and finally a 3 hour boat trip. It's an absolutely beautiful island with no real development and very few people. The beaches are gorgeous covered in white powder sand and bordered by a wonderful barrier reef which is easily accessible sitting a mere 10 meters from the beach. The water is turquoise and very clear making for a perfect snorkeling environment. Seeing a large number of the fishes I once kept in my fishtank - angelfish, puffer fish, rasps, parrotfish, moray eels, damselfish, clownfish and anemone- has truly been special. Unfortunately the weather has been less than cooperative, raining each night and each morning before finally stopping at around 1pm. I certainly wasn't expecting so much rain so I am not sure what to do. It isn't the rainy season yet - that doesn't arrive until June - but I can't afford to just sit around and wait for too long so if it isn't nice tomorrow I will head north to another island where I hope to see some improvement in the weather. I met a very nice Italian couple from Rome - Alex and Sylvia - on he boat to Koh Lipe and have been spending a bit of time with them but other than that I am rather lonely. The only other two people I have met worked at the first place I was staying - Nom and Kitty - both of who are lady boys. Kitty really seems to have taken a shine to me asking me if it was ok that she slept in my bungalow in the event of rain. She promised that is was "Only for sleeping," but I nonetheless declined. She could probably have taken the door off the hinges were she so inclined since she's built like a middle linebacker at the pro level. Her/his physique and face can be perfectly described as 'Princess Fiona' in ogre form of 'Shrek' fame. There are lots of Europeans here especially Italians, Germans and French. One group of Germans was having dinner in front of me on the beach tonight. As usual there were a group of dogs hanging about and one of the German girls was feeding one of the dogs. During a moment where the girl's attention was elsewhere the dog lifted its leg and urinated in the girl's purse which was hanging over the back of the chair. It was all over before I could intervene and I spent the next 20 mins debating whether or not I should tell the girl what had happened. In the end I decided not to.
Last night saw me engaging in a traveling abroad clique when I engaged in an epic battle with an intruding cockroach. After returning to my room I went to retrieve my toothbrush when a 2.5 cockroach darted out of my toiletry bag sending me into quite a state of panic. He raced across the mattress and then disappeared under the bed frame. After searching a good 10 mins and removing pillows, sheets and mattress I finally found him wedged into a notch where the horizontal piece of the frame joins the leg. Even though it was nighttime it was still very hot and humid and I was drenched in sweat. Taking a breather I looked around the room and spotted a piece of plywood that had been placed under the mattress to support its sagging middle. I laid the piece of plywood back on the bed frame and lined its front edge up with the notch on the leg of the bed and therein the cockroach planning to cut him clean in two. Attempting to kill a cockroach is a giddy and nervous affair for me so I took and step back to assess the plan, contingencies etc, made sure the plywood was aligned and slammed it with enough force to remove a human finger into the slot. Much to my dismay the cockroach scurried under the bedframe and disappeared once again. In addition to being on edge I was now pissed at having to continue the hunt. I pulled the bed away from the wall and went over every inch of the bedframe with my headlamp for a good 15 mins cursing what was quickly becoming a losing endeavor; the bug was no where to be found. Taking little solace in the fact that many people say that the cockroach would be the only living thing to survive a nuclear holocaust I unraveled the mosquito nut somehow convincing myself that it would be ok to sleep inches away from a large and nasty bug. Before turning in I decided to brush my teeth. As I reached into the toiletry bag a cockroach fell out and started dashing in every which way. As he darted towards me I brought my size 12 sandal down on top of him with enough force to break a toe unleashing all the energy that had been building inside of me since seeing the first bug. He was dead instantly leaving behind an incredible amount of innards and a horrid smell.
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