Popayan, the White City

Trip Start Jan 06, 2008
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Trip End Dec 20, 2008


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Saturday, November 15, 2008

Pilar and her mother Carmen came to pick me up at Cali airport. We then drove to Popayan and arrived there few minutes before midnight.

The temperature is much better than in Quito. There are flowers everywhere, the streets are so nice and the town is all white. Very good and so happy to be here. We will stay in Popayan until the 14th November when we will start our travel around Colombia.
Colombia is the last country before I go back in France for Christmas and something tells me it could well be the best part of the trip.

The sunshine is on and off but walking around is really good. Went to eat a typical lunch and it was absolutely delicious. The most impressive has to be the variety of fruits: not only you have the common bananas, pineapple, oranges... but so much more exotic fruits like mora, guanabana, lulo, tomate de arbol, pinuela, carambola, granadilla, uchuva, mamoncilla, chontaduro, chirimoya... the thick juices are the best I have ever tasted.

Also, as soon as you go out of town, every house has a garden full of the most beautiful flowers and there are not many tourists (I have not seen a non Latino yet) so you can enjoy more peacefully.

Thursday evening, we went out with Pilar's friends for another delicious meal.
Saturday, we spent the day at her aunt house, walking, playing, and listening Latin music in the lovely countryside next to Popayan. Lovely place, lovely people, lovely food... lovely day. Went out the night and I really liked the local aguardiente and music. Colombians of all generations are crazy about salsa and Latin dancing in general. I need to learn it quickly if I want to enjoy it too.

Sunday, we went for more great food and I saw the first non Latino in the street of Popayan.

Regarding the security, I really feel safe but there are constant reminders that we need to be careful. You often have to pass a locked gate to enter a shop and all cars are checked as if entering an army camp before parking in a commercial center.
To be honest, I think people are always very friendly and helpful but many would try to rob you if they have an opportunity. A shopkeeper will normally help you only if there is something for him to gain and will not hesitate to lie or try to make you pay more.

12 Nov evening: We were supposed to go out for a meal in town but we are stuck in the house because of a curfew. First time in my life and first for Popayan in over 10 years. Everybody is to remain in their house from 6pm until 7am the day after if they do not want to be arrested and spend the night in a cell.
This is due to the massive manifestations that happened today in the south of the country and particularly in Popayan, where several thousands people vandalised a building and would not surrender. Since March this year, a financial organisation promise 70% interest per month. Some people received the due amount, motivating others to sell their house in order to invest. You guessed it, they have lost everything and are furious to say the least.

We met a French family in their campervan (doing Ushuaia - Canada by road in 2 years) and trying to find a safe place to park before the curfew. They obviously came to the house before insisting in sleeping in their van, just outside.

The 14th evening, we went to the Municipal Theatre for a concert of the Mariachis. It was fantastic and everybody was dancing at the end.
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