Mount Gloom
Trip Start
Oct 14, 2005
1
53
71
Trip End
??? ??, 2006
National Park,
New Zealand
Sunday, April 2, 2006
Alas imagination wasn't all that was lacking form NP, it was also severely lacking in cash machines and shops and sort of activity that could occupy and amuse my tiny mind in the event of terrible weather.
I spent 2 days watching films waiting for the weather to clear, so I could actually see the land that Peter Jackson used for Mordor, and for the winds to drop below 90kmph, which would bnlow you off the mountain.
2 days of TV, after 3 fairly inactive days in Wellington, I was relieved to hear that the crossing was safe today, and with a few showers predicted we set off 2 day old sandwiches at the ready at 7:30am this morning.
Setting off from the Car park we were shrouded in mist, visibility about 30 feet, that's not very far. We got a glimpse of a mountain, Rupahue I think, through a break in the clouds. We were eventually treated to the site of Nagahue, which was the mountain used as Mount Doom, during a rare break in the gloom. It was standing over us dark and foreboding, probably bristling with orcs behind the hardened lava flows. This being the first in what turned out to be very few breaks in the mist was the cue for everyone to stop where they were and get their cameras out.
Mount Doom revealed his majestic 2200m frame all too fleetingly, and by the time we had climbed up the outside, and had to make the decision whether to attempt the summit or not, it was completely hidden from view. Although so was anything not immediately in front of our faces. Deciding against going for the summit, where on a clear day the view would have been spectacular, because the mist was so thick, that the view would have been the same from anywhere, grey.
As were traversed the rim of the red crater, we were treated to our second gap in the clouds, and it was what we had all come to see, the mists parted to reveal Mordor in all it's dark and bleak splendour. Without fire and lava special effects it was still clear why it was used for the barren land of death that was Mordor. Cue another burst of camera shutters, and all too quickly it was gone, this was much the same story for the central crater, emerald and blue lakes. the landscape was teasing us giving us little peeks at what it could have been on a brilliant clear day. I'm sure my fellow New Zealand explorers will delight in sending me pictures of Tongariro on a beautiful day, as they did after my grey day at Abel Tasman. Admittedly the grey swirling mist did add a Tolkienesque feel to the mountains, and protected NZs harsh sun from frying our skin, damn that hole in the ozone layer, it would still have been nicer to see it on a perfect day.
After starting our descent on the eastern (I think) side of the slopes, we got our first and last glimpse of the Tongariro Volcano, one of only 2 still acive volcanoes in NZ, the other one is at White Island, where I am heading to in a few days. hopefully my run of bad weather will clear. Heading down the eastern slopes the sun finally pops out to say hello, warming us up nicely as we crossed the volcanic landscape, comnplete with hot springs (banned to the public), warm streams, gas vents and a very unpleasant eggy smell, caused by all the sulphurous gasses being released, and making my apple taste bad.
Unfortunately all the stunning scenery was on the western slopes, which were hidden from us for the morning, but it is increasing my resolve to come back to NZ one day, and do the great walks, 1 month is not enough time in this magic country. The glimpses we got of Tongoriros treasures was enough for me to have made it worth enduring the biting winds and bitter coldness today, but it has merely whetted my appetite for a futre adventure.
7 hours after we set off, we were finished an hour walk through the forest at the end was unnecessary and not enjoyable with my aching legs itching for a nice sit down, so onwards I travel. I caught the bus at the end of the Tongariro Crossing trail, New Zealands best one day walk, I will find out one day if it is worthy of that title, and caught my bus to Taupo. Tomorrow I skydive, if the weather is good, otherwise it's Lord of the Rings and Ghostbusters again...
