Annapurna Sanctuary Trek
Trip Start
Feb 19, 2008
1
4
6
Trip End
Apr 22, 2008
Pokhara,
Nepal
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Rather than give a day-to-day account of the trek, I'll just give you the best bits...:
The first 2 days of the trek were spent walking to the largeish town of Ghorepani and superb view of the Annapurna range that can be found from the nearby Poon Hill. This short trip is very popular with tourists and on our early-morning jaunt 500 metres up to Poon Hill we were joined by dozens of other view-seekers. Despite the number of people, the view was spectacular, particularly as the first rays of bright sunshine struck the tops of the peaks making them light up agains the dawn sky. We spent about an hour here before returning to tour guest house for breakfast and heading off on the next part of the trek: to Chomrong and the start of the Annapurna Sancturary trek 'proper'. This day's trek was the most enjoyable so far with more great views of some of the more prominent Annapurna peaks: Macchapuchhre and Annapurna South. The path then descended through the first of many spectacular rhododendron forests and followed clear mountain streams.
From Chomrong onward the villages we passed through were entirely dedicated to trekkers: there were no permanent settlements here until the trekking industry took off, just small goat-herders huts occupied for a few months of the year.
Poon Hill view - Annapurna South
As well as the steady increase in altitude from Chomrong onwards, the prices of food and lodging also increased in proportion to the distance required for the porters to deliver supplies. Still, at around $4 for an all-you-can-eat meal of Dal Baat (lentils and rice with curried vegetables) it was hardly expensive! Also the menus changed with more carb. heavy foods reflecting trekkers' needs. The pick of the new additions was without doubt the 'Snickers Roll': a Snickers bar wrapped in pastry and fried...no doubt introduced by a passing Scot. Similarly, all the menus featured Swiss Rosti (or 'Roasty')introduced by a group of home-sick Swiss in the 1970s! Still well within the rhododedron forests, despite the increasing altitude, the trail followed along the Modi Khola river. As we approached our night's stay at Macchapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) at 3700 metres we finally emerged out of the tree line and into the harsh mountain environment. Apart from some long grasses, clumps of bamboo and rather pathetic low, spindly, trees we were unsheltered from the elements and face-to-face with the imposing mountains around and infront of us. We soon hit the snow line and were forced to take a sensible detour around a prominent avalanche route due to the late hour and the likelyhood of melting snow. Starting to feel a slight headache and shortness of breath, the weather took a turn for the worse and visibility was soon dramatically reduced as the clouds descended. Together with slippery conditions underfoot and the altitude this was pretty hard work, but also great fun! Soon we were esconsed in a rather basic lodge at MBC and slowly warmed up aided by hot lemon and blankets just as the snow and hail started to pound down on the lodge's tin roof.
Up trail from Poon Hill
After Dal Baat it was an early night, sleeping in full thermals, hat, sleeping bag and blanket, and hopeing for a clear morning for our hike up to the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)and the views of the 'Sanctuary'.Luckily it was a perfect starry start at 5.30 the next morning and as we trudged up through the snow the dawn began to break revealing hints of the mountains around us. Soon daylight was upon us and as we ate breakfast at ABC (4200 metre) the full glory of the Sanctuary hit us. We were almost entirely encircled by extrodinarily big mountains. Straight ahead was Annapurna South (7219m)which we has been able to see from the first few days of the trek, flanked on the right by the South face of the mighty Annapurna I (8091m) famously summited first by Maurice Herzog (although not from the South face), and on the left by Hiunchuli (6441m). Less significant peaks filled in the gaps. Behind us, down the valley we had just walked up, we could see the distinctive fishtail of Macchapucchre (6993m) and hints of Annapurna III (7556m) and Gangapurna (7454m). In the perfect air and blinding sunlight we could easily have spent hours in this pristine environment, but eventually had to head back down.
The route back followed the way up except was done in almost half the time. From Chomrong we took a different route back via the glorious hot springs at Jhinu Danda and then down hill (more or less) through small villages and agriculatural terraces until the town of Damphus from we we could see Pokhara down the valley below. We were soon in a taxi and relaxing back at our hotel, looking forward to a spectacular steak dinner and a day of rest before heading to the crowds and pollution of Kathmandu!
