The couple that we are staying with is made up of a super talkative woman and a very quiet man, probably in their sixties and seventies, respectively
. We get in the late afternoon and are bombarded with words from our host. Though she is very sweet and well intentioned, you can't get a word in when she is talking, and each time you see her you can assume you will lose at least an hour of your day. Also of note, Throughout her nonstop chatter she constantly sprinkles in the words gringas and/or gringita without a second thought. That and the fact that she thought Kendra was Indian, like from India, it is obvious that she too has a bit of the chiloe-cray-cray. But she's sweet, helpful, and thinks that Kendra is mature, poised, and just the nicest and most beautiful thing ever, that Lydia is like a child, and that we have known each other our whole lives. Wrong.
Anyway, we came to Chiloe for some magic, some seafood, and some hiking. Following our host's homemade tourist map, we saw some little caves and an old fort and some houses built on stilts in the water (so they didn't have to pay taxes). We wanted to go camp and hike and kayak in the national park where you can we penguins. But you had to pay to get a ride tot he park, pay to enter, pay to camp, pay for a tour to see the penguins, pay to ret a kayak, etc. Way too expensive and a bit too crowded sounding for the quiet camping trip we had in mind. All in all, Chiloe did not quite live up to its hype for us. If we had more time and money, perhaps, but for us it was relaxing and charming and rainy.
Chiloe is a mystical island off the left coast of Chile where everyone has the crazy eyes. It is special because, for a time, it had been cut off from the mainland so the population still has more indigenous blood and has some different foods and culture. It also has an unusually large amount of wooden churches scattered along the island that were built by the jesuits using no nails and a lot of building techniques used for ships. The culture includes a large artisan craft market (mostly wool wears), the best potatoes in the world, and lots of seafood. Walking around this rainy little island we notice we are pretty much the only non natives and thus stand out and call attention to ourselves. This wouldn't be so much of a problem except we keep making eye contact with people with the crazy eyes. Ya know, those eyes that look a little drunk and psychotic at the same time? Scary. So we keep to ourselves mostly.