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Forget flashers, this takes it to another level!
Entry 6 of 13 | show all | print this entry |
Day 70 - Today I rented a motorbike and driver from Mr Xuan to show me some of the sights around Ninh Binh, in particular Tam Coc. My driver was called Tung, and true to course he asked me to hug him "for safety" and since he was 25 and rather svelte, this time I obliged!
First stop was Tam Coc (three grottos) where I got onto a little tin-can boat and was rowed by a little old lady along the river. The old dear rowed non stop for the 2hour, 6km trip with a secondary woman doing an occasional paddle at the front but mostly there to give me the hard sell and even asked for a tip at the end! There were a lot of boats on the river and most boatmen alternated between rowing with their arms and with their legs, which I have never seen before. All the tourists did not detract from the beauty however - maybe it would be different if they were motor boats, but they were quite a sight in themselves. In fact the tourists were mostly very friendly and complementary - one group of lads even brought a guitar for songs! As we rowed up the river the scenery of bright green rice paddies, with people hard at work in their conical hats, that reached right u to the river, surrounded by beautiful tall karst mountains dotted with the odd goat. Through the three grottos a load of ladies in rowing boats full of confectionary were waiting at the end. Tung had instructed me not to buy anything, but I wouldn't have anyway.
Back at the dock, I couldn't find Tung and so waited for a bit when a large group of Vietnamese lads accosted me and started talking to me and requesting photos! As they gathered around me, all very excitable, Tung suddenly turns up on his motorbike out of nowhere and I could escape! He took me to a restaurant where I got some fried vegetables and rice for lunch - again, with an audience of Vietnamese tourists, mostly from Hanoi - quite where these friendly people were hiding when I was in Hanoi I don't know!
We then drove through the paddy fields to Thai Vi Temple, which was beautifully set amongst the karst mountain scenery and was very ornately decorated with carvings of dragons - quite a beautiful little place. We then drove to Bich Don Pagoda, which is situated on a mountain side and has a cave behind - Tung came with me to literally hold my hand in case I slipped! From there we both visited Angel Cave which was really cool with small passageways through the limestone mountain.
We made our way to Hoa Lu, which is the ancient capital of Vietnam and on the way stopped at Mua Cave. Although I saw no cave, the 500 steps to the top of the mountain provided breathtaking views of the rowboats on Tam Coc and the surrounding area - the walk was bloody tough and seriously hot, but worth it! Tung hadn't come with me for this bit, and instead waited at the bottom, lying on his back in the shade watching tv!
We had to turn around a few times on the way to Hoa Lu as my driver kept forgetting the way. There is very little left of the ancient citadel but two pagodas and a lot of women trying to sell things. At the second pagoda there was an old man inside the temple who pointed out the three statues of the King, Queen and Son and then insisted I take a photo of each of them. As I went to leave, he took my hand and kissed it and to my surprise moved in for a kiss! Completely shocked at the strangeness I turned for the door as politely as I could! Found Tung in the shade again and I bought some bananas off a cute old lady who had gone in search of them specially for me!
We returned to the hotel taking the more picturesque but unlevel, smaller road and again, took a wrong turn or two!
Day 71 - With Tung as my driver once again, we set off towards Cuc Phuong National Park - the first designated National Park in Vietnam. It's at least 35km from Ninh Binh and so a fair drive. As we started out we saw a fight on the side of the road between two middle aged men, which is the first sign of violence I have witnessed since being away. A bit further on a man skidded off his motorbike on a particularly wet and muddy section of road, which in a way was good as encouraged Tung to drive extra carefully (by the way the other bloke wasn't hurt, just got on again and sped off faster than ever - pretty tough ...and stupid!) We took a 'short cut' along a very bumpy little track which was lovely as took us through rice fields and beautiful countryside and seemed like noone really goes there. We stopped for a rest under a tree and a lady stopped on her bicycle to have a look at me! The whole time I've been in Ninh Binh, absolutely everyone notices me on the back of the bicycle, some even point and smile and the rest tell me I'm beautiful! Tung said he felt really proud driving me around and getting so much attention!
At the National Park I had a tour of the Primate Rescue Centre which was awesome - I saw native langurs and gibbons and lots of little babies! As it was the morning, they were particularly entertaining swinging around and shouting at us! They introduce a lot of them into the wild and have a interrim enclosure where they keep them beforehand.
We drove on into the centre of the National Park - about 20km. The road was alive with butterflies of all colours and shapes which were reallu beautiful, although they kept hitting us as we drove though! The scenery was stunning too - really dense, untouched jungle. In the centre there is a point where Tung dropped me off and I could walk an 8km round trip through the forest. It was very humid but beautiful nonetheless. About a quarter of the way round I gained a tonne of mosquito bites on my legs and almost went mad from snake paranoia... an it was about then when I realised I don't really like the jungle! Turns out the snakes were the least of my worries.
Halfway along the route I reached the 1000 year old tree which was really amazing. I enjoyed looking at the enormous, natural phenomon, when I caught sight of the photographer the other side, who then wandered off into the wood a bit. Still in clear view it took me three hard looks to confirm that, yes... he was masturbating! He wasn't even turned away, but facing me slightly and I think even looking at me! Crippled for a split second by complete shock, followed by realisation that I was the only person around, I legged it along the path only to find 500 steps in front of me (on no, not downhill!) I ran up 400 and was forced to crawl up the last. Still terrified I marched along the final few kilometres, making it back to Tung who found the whole thing hilarious!
We drove back through the National Park,myself still utterley disgusted and stopped at Dong Nguoi Xua - a prehistoric cave. There I met another weird man who wanted a photo and to give me his number in case I ever went back to Hanoi! We needed a torch in the cave as there was no light - it was really cool - like a labyrinth! We went up a very steep and dangerous ladder (in the dark) and at the top were hundreds of bats hagning upside down! We were within touching distance of them - a really cool experience, especially as we were the only people there. We took a different route back to the hotel, this time with stunning views of the valley.
In the evening I met up with Tung who introduced me to his friend who is getting married tommorrow and also took me to his Grandparents house, where I was offered the strongest rice wine I have ever drank! For dinner we got some rice porridge with shreds of chicken at a late night street restaurant and Tung tried to get me to eat a cooked, fertilised egg, which looked disgusting with brown veins over it. I'm not a fussy eater, but I just couldn't do it! We had some Ninh Binh beer which was like water and he dropped me at the hotel, where I had to knock on the door to be let in! Oops!
Day 72 - After a lovely lie in I walked to Tung's house and felt eyes on me everywhere I went - just one day I would like to be inconspicuous! I arrived as he, his mother and his 11 year old sister were eating lunch. I had just eaten breakfast but as his mum brought me into her house and offered me to join them, I had to eat something. It was actually really good - prawns, sticky rice, pork fluff and fruit - his Mum even peeled the prawns individually and handed them to me which was so sweet! His sister also practised some of her english on me but kept hiding behing her mum as she got shy! Tung showed me a picture of his dad, which was more like a shrine, as he had died a couple of years ago.
Afterwards we went to his friends wedding - well more like a pre wedding gathering of people as the really event, as I could understand, was tommorrow. On the way a bus drived slowed down to point and put his thumb up at me and slowly drove by so the rest of the passengers could do the same! We arrived at the bridal shop, full of lovely meringue dresses and sat and waited as the bride got ready. Tung wanted me to wear traditional Vietnamese clothes and I even tried some on, but felt very uncomfortable, especially as noone but the bridesmaids and family were wearing it - the Lao skirt will have to do!
At the wedding, the whole congregation turned and stared at me and were all talking about me, although I did not know what they were saying! They were all very friendly though and full of smiles - the people in Ninh Binh have been some of the nicest yet. Although I did make a little girl cry, simply by looking at me! We sat and enjoyed Vietnamese tea and some weird sweet cake things which are very sweet. They mostly have watermelon seeds as snacks, but I struggle to open them - all the food is bloody difficult to eat! I asked for a photo with the bride and bridesmaids and after one, that was it.. they all wanted photos with me! I felt like a celebrity!
After a few hours, most people left and the bride took me a beauty salon where we both had our hair washed and faces massaged. After drying my hair I asked if I could use their straighteners, and before I knew it, the rather tasty bossman nudged the poor little assitant aside and set to work. He did a pretty thorough job and took over half an hour, but it looked damn good after and I was so happy to be able to wear my hair down for once! At the end, the bride and groom kindly paid for me, and despite my objections, insisted, saying "welcome to Vietnam"!
I went back to the hotel in the evening and got my stuff together before the night bus to Hue arrived. The bus was really nice, with three rows of two bunked beds. The drivers got very excited when they picked me up, and I got the usual "Ah England... Arsenal/Manchester United/Football" response to where I was from as I have recieved everywhere in Vietnam! The second driver showed me to my bed, which, as he pointed out, was right next to where he slept in the aisle! This made me a little uneasy, but actually there was no problem and despite hearing that the bus journey between Hanoi and Hue is absolutely horrendous from numerous sources, their driving was very good. Despite this I struggled to sleep... perhaps it had something to do with the piercing horn being used almost continuously at all hours!
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| 6. | Forget flashers, this takes it to another level! - Ninh Binh, Vietnam May 08, 2008 |
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