Walking the streets of a Favela Thurs 28th Feb 08

Trip Start Feb 11, 2008
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Where I stayed
Girl from Ipanema
(Rio de Janeiro hotels)

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Sunday, March 2, 2008

Early start today as we'd booked the favela tour. There was a mix up as our hostel had booked the trip for us but failed to tell us that we were being picked up from another hotel! While we were waiting for pick up at our hostel, they were apparently waiting for us at a hotel two blocks away. When the hostel realised and told us they were waiting we rushed over there as quickly as we could but they'd left without us. I was a bit miffed that they didn't wait as it wasn't our fault we were given the wrong information. We were saved by another tour guide from the same company who was also doing a pick up. He kindly took us in his van. After a few minor hitches, we were on our way...
First stop was a school in one of the favelas, which is partly funded by the favela tour (75% of the tour's surplas). School education is very poor in Brazil and only the best education can be sought at private schools, which are of course very expensive. This school, although run by volunteers and not qualified teachers, provides children with basic education and keeps them off the crime ridden streets children at favela school
children at favela school
 . One girl was friendly and enjoyed taking photos with my camera.
We then took a walk through part of the favela. It was not as bad as I expected as I was envisaging grotty slums - my perceptions were what most people's ideas of favelas are, taken from negative press, until they see one for themselves. Of course, those negative aspects do exist in parts but it's not all bad. The guide concentrated on showing us the positive side of favela life and how the community have taken the initiative to improve their life and homes. Many have painted their external walls in bright colours or used broken tiles to produce pretty mosaics to brighten up their area. Favela residents don't want sympathy but for you to see that although they're poor, they are happy and enjoying their life.
We then visited the largest favela in Rio, called Favela Rocinha, with a population of 70,000. The guide took us to the bustling main centre, which is lined with shops and a market. It has everything anyone could need - dentists, doctors, banks, hairdressers and schools (including private schools). Even public transport runs through the centre, although not up into the hills. A taxi bike (motorbike) will take residents up into the hills for 2 Real. Traffic is a bit of problem, as the roads are narrow and there doesn't appear to be any control, with no traffic lights or road markings. The guide described it as a city within a city, with its own rules and regulations. There are a lot of drug dealers in other parts of the favelas and it's not uncommon for shootouts to occur. Drugs is where the trouble lies and the average life span of a dealer is short, with most not surviving past 30.
The homes we saw were shabby concrete blocks but some of the poorer people are not so fortunate, with just a wooden shack for their home. These tend to exist further into the favela and we only got a long distance glimpse from a rooftop view. It would have been interesting to have got closer but it's just too dangerous!
In the afternoon, we went to Ipanema beach and soaked up the sun. Then, in the evening we went to a por kilo restaurant called Frontera - the food was yummy!
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