The Tale of the Notorious Camel Blanket Smugglers
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2007
1
39
40
Trip End
Aug 2008
Moscow,
Central Russia,
Russian Federation
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
The train heaves and lurches at first, a merchant train save for some foreign interlopers. As we cruise towards the Russian border, I get to know my cabin mates. Elina and David both have been teaching English in Japan, now heading home to the States via Europe. Elina lived in Kazakhstan until she was 13 so speaks Russian, a very useful skill in coming days. In the other berth, Aoife is heading back to Ireland after teaching in China. Next door, Danny and Amy are both heading back to the UK after teaching in Japan and China respectively. Acquainted, we settle into the important train activities of reading, crosswords and playing cards. As evening draws in, we head to the dining car for some Mongolian morsels.
Everything comes to a stop at the Mongolian/Russian border. A much more intensive baggage examination is engaged in here than from China to Mongolia. After two hours with the Mongolian authorities, the Russians begin an exhaustive search, focusing especially on the local merchants. The conductors are in on the game too, having hidden 1500 pure camel hair blankets, one under each passengers bed sheets. After five hours having various searches carried out, we finally pull over the border into the Russian Federation. Nothing appears to have been removed, which is surprising given the exhibitions of pure capitalism we will witness in the coming days.
After a few hours sleep, Elina, Aoife, Danny and I head for breakfast in the newly attached Russian dining car. We are greeted by a large, flame-haired woman, our waitress and information source in the coming days, and one of the few staff members to smile. Excellent ham and eggs with dark coffee and bread. At the end, Danny attracts the attention of a Mongolian trying to drink his way to Moscow. We retreat to our cabins to avoid more of a scene, and settle down for the day.
Russia drifts by gradually becoming more green and European in appearance. At each stop, we get out for a stroll and resupply on water and snacks. The scene awaiting us depends very much on local circumstances. In some towns, the local police keep people away from the platform, the merchants throwing dagger looks at the loss of trade. At more liberal towns, the crowds stand waiting for the unofficial traveling market. Haggling becomes more and more frantic as departure time approaches. Then the jeans, blankets, t-shirts, mannequins and everything else magically disappears back onboard. Our friendly waitress tells us she has seen some of the younger sellers grow up on the train, from babes in arms to cutthroat teenage traders.
Along the route, the highlight include the glistening blue Baikal (the largest lake in the world, containing one fifth of Earth's freshwater) and the Ural mountains. Besides these are the countless towns that break up the vast expanses of the world's largest country. Four days goes surprisingly quickly, as the trading display and good conversation make the 6000+ kilometers fly by. On the last night, we have a few celebratory vodkas and play cards with two American sisters, Julie and Pamela. A group of Mongolian merchants are celebrating too by continuing their drinking from the last four days. A timely exit again as things start getting a little heated again.
After a quiet morning, we pull into the Moscow terminal bathed in bright sunshine. The company we are traveling with have sent a driver, and soon we are off through the crowded Moscow streets to our hotel in a quiet northern surburb. A few hours to recuperate, have showers and catch up on the news of the Russian/Georgian conflict before we all meet up and catch the metro into the centre of town. One of Elina's school friends now lives in Moscow and gives a a tour of the the centre, after some dinner. The highlight is Red Square, lit up by the fairy lights on the GUM department store, with the unmistakable St. Basil's Cathedral and Stalin's red stars marking out the corners of the Kremlin.
In the morning, after an excellent breakfast, I head into the centre. First off I sort out some ballet tickets for that evening at the theatre next to the Bolshoi. Then back over to Red Square and into St. Basil's. The structure holds a series of interconnecting chapels, each with ornate decorations and painted panels. As I pass the central chamber, a male voice choir sings a hymn, the sound resonating up to the dome above. A wonderful experience. After more exploring, I head down to the river, wandering past the statue of Peter the Great and the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour with its giant golden domes. Then further south to meet up with the others for lunch and a look round the Tretyakov Gallery. A vast collection of Russian (pre 1917) art, the highlight being the best collection of icons on the planet.
A fond farewell to Elina and David heading to St. Petersburg that night, before Aoife, Danny, Amy and I go to the ballet. The Moscow City Ballet are holding a summer season, and tonight they present 'Giselle'. Excellent performance to a sold out theatre. After some dinner, we wearily make our way back to the hotel. A very long day.
I check out the next morning and head into town, exploring the area of Arbat to the west of the Kremlin. Then down to the river and over to the New Tretyakov gallery. This huge collection shows mostly Soviet art of the 20th century, including several Kandinsky's. Thoroughly galleried out, I say goodbye to Aoife and get back to the hotel for my bags. Overnight train to Warsaw is next.
