Staring Across The Divide
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2007
1
36
40
Trip End
Aug 2008

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A slow start to the week after the weekend's excesses, I head over towards Yonsei for lunch and practice. Today's practice is under the watchful eye of the 84 year old founder of the club, Mr Li. After the weekend's competition, he seems intent on coaching the coaches. The students find this all very amusing. After practice, I head out for a spot of dinner with one of the seniors and her friend. Donkatsu down the road from Yonsei.
Tuesday is a hot one. I meet Jingu's friend, Hiyoni, and another friend and we head to the Mapo-gu area for a walk and lunch. It is similar to many other parts of Seoul, but has some of the more popular hangouts tucked down its side streets. We stop for a bite and coffee at a very plush place, stepping stones over water lead our way through the garden. Then back to Yonsei to practice in what can only be described as a cauldron.
Seoul's weather changes again to unsettled. Mother and I meet her sisters at the National Cemetery on the south bank of the Hangang River. Climbing up the hill, rows of neat graves have alternating yellow and red flowers laid. At the top sit the memorials to President Park and Generals (generally). The rain continues to flow as we stomp back down the hill. We grab a cab to the Sadang area and drink coffee watching the rain. In the afternoon, back to Yonsei for the daily session.
Hot again, I move focus to the area south of Namsam called Yongsan. This is a very popular shopping and entertainment centre, and seems to contain the highest density of foreigners too.
A day trip beckons, with Sin-jan and me meeting up at Yonsei before heading to his home. Borrowing his family's car, we drive out of Seoul north towards the border with North Korea. A city called Paju sits facing across the Imjim river to the farms and villages of the northern neighbour. Back into town for kumdo in the afternoon.
Storms hit Seoul over the weekend, disrupting any plans to see more of the city. On Saturday night, Jingu's brother, Hyung, a friend (Gemin) and me head out locally to catch a film and some pizza. Both work for one of the giants of Korean industry, LG. The rain never ceases as we run from place to place.
A new week begins with a slightly brighter forecast. I explore the area near Ewha University, full of little boutiques and malls. Then to Yonsei in the afternoon. Showers persist but nothing troubling. Tuesday brings a trip on a bus to COEX with Jingu's mum. After lunch with family we pop into the huge complex near the World Finance Centre. A large aquarium sits in the basement and we proceed round the excellent collection of aquatic creatures.
The rest of the week proceeds in a similar fashion. Exploring an area, before heading to kumdo in the afternoon. One day I return to the centre of town and take some photos around Jongmyo and the royal palace nearby.
Friday night brings the return of Jingu and the start of my last weekend in town. On Saturday, we go to the local shopping centre to get some supplies and pick out a new suit for Jingu to look the part at Asiana Airlines. Then Jingu and I head to Yonsei for a practice together at the weekly alumni session. Just before we are to finally practice together, a bad cramp strikes Jingu. Never mind, next time. In the evening, we head out with his high school friends for BBQ duck at a famous restaurant. Then karaoke till the wee hours, but thankfully slightly more restrained than last time so no threat of hangovers.
My last full day in Seoul, Jingu, his girlfriend, Heyin, and I go down to the river and Yeuido Park. Dragonflies buzz everywhere as we stroll in the shadow of one of Seoul's main skyscraper districts. Reaching the 63 building, the tallest in Seoul, we stroll round the base before entering one of its attractions, Seaworld. Another great aquarium. Then dinner in Sindorim before I head back to pack. Incheon tomorrow ready for my last flight to Beijing.
Tuesday is a hot one. I meet Jingu's friend, Hiyoni, and another friend and we head to the Mapo-gu area for a walk and lunch. It is similar to many other parts of Seoul, but has some of the more popular hangouts tucked down its side streets. We stop for a bite and coffee at a very plush place, stepping stones over water lead our way through the garden. Then back to Yonsei to practice in what can only be described as a cauldron.
Seoul's weather changes again to unsettled. Mother and I meet her sisters at the National Cemetery on the south bank of the Hangang River. Climbing up the hill, rows of neat graves have alternating yellow and red flowers laid. At the top sit the memorials to President Park and Generals (generally). The rain continues to flow as we stomp back down the hill. We grab a cab to the Sadang area and drink coffee watching the rain. In the afternoon, back to Yonsei for the daily session.
Hot again, I move focus to the area south of Namsam called Yongsan. This is a very popular shopping and entertainment centre, and seems to contain the highest density of foreigners too.
National Cemetery
I skip the mall/station and walk to the large park to the east. Under the towering mass of Namsam, the vast National Museum sits. About 100m by 60m and spread over 3 floors, it presents a comprehensive history of Korean culture through artifacts from across the country. Well worth a visit. Guess where in the afternoon for another practice. After practice, a group of us go out for a snack and some beer. Good bunch. Then back to Mullae.A day trip beckons, with Sin-jan and me meeting up at Yonsei before heading to his home. Borrowing his family's car, we drive out of Seoul north towards the border with North Korea. A city called Paju sits facing across the Imjim river to the farms and villages of the northern neighbour. Back into town for kumdo in the afternoon.
Storms hit Seoul over the weekend, disrupting any plans to see more of the city. On Saturday night, Jingu's brother, Hyung, a friend (Gemin) and me head out locally to catch a film and some pizza. Both work for one of the giants of Korean industry, LG. The rain never ceases as we run from place to place.
A new week begins with a slightly brighter forecast. I explore the area near Ewha University, full of little boutiques and malls. Then to Yonsei in the afternoon. Showers persist but nothing troubling. Tuesday brings a trip on a bus to COEX with Jingu's mum. After lunch with family we pop into the huge complex near the World Finance Centre. A large aquarium sits in the basement and we proceed round the excellent collection of aquatic creatures.
National Cemetery
The school holidays began yesterday, so hordes of children scream in delight at the shows, crocodiling their way through the tanks. Then back on the subway to Sinchon for the afternoon practice.The rest of the week proceeds in a similar fashion. Exploring an area, before heading to kumdo in the afternoon. One day I return to the centre of town and take some photos around Jongmyo and the royal palace nearby.
Friday night brings the return of Jingu and the start of my last weekend in town. On Saturday, we go to the local shopping centre to get some supplies and pick out a new suit for Jingu to look the part at Asiana Airlines. Then Jingu and I head to Yonsei for a practice together at the weekly alumni session. Just before we are to finally practice together, a bad cramp strikes Jingu. Never mind, next time. In the evening, we head out with his high school friends for BBQ duck at a famous restaurant. Then karaoke till the wee hours, but thankfully slightly more restrained than last time so no threat of hangovers.
My last full day in Seoul, Jingu, his girlfriend, Heyin, and I go down to the river and Yeuido Park. Dragonflies buzz everywhere as we stroll in the shadow of one of Seoul's main skyscraper districts. Reaching the 63 building, the tallest in Seoul, we stroll round the base before entering one of its attractions, Seaworld. Another great aquarium. Then dinner in Sindorim before I head back to pack. Incheon tomorrow ready for my last flight to Beijing.

Comments
Bastiņo-san
What Ho Basto! When does your long and winding train journey begin?
Train Time
Hi there,
Heading off to China on Tuesday. A week there and then the train ride begins on the 5th of Aug. The long one from Ulan Battur to Moscow is from the 8th of Aug to the 14th. Then a day in Moscow, before a train to Warsaw and then back through Germany and France. Should get to Paris around the 21st, ready to head down to Bordeaux and Mussidan.
See you soon,
R