Around The World In Two Hours and Fourteen Minutes
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2007
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28
40
Trip End
Aug 2008
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Hong Kong,
Hong Kong
Sunday, May 4, 2008
After a couple of Kung Fu flicks and a few hours of sleep, we pull into a bus station on the outskirts of Guangzhou. Formerly known as Canton, this bustling home to 5 million people acts as the gateway to central China from the Special Administrative Regions of Hong Kong and Macau. Skyscrapers and throngs of traders and traffic show off the city's importance, accompanied by a thick veil of smog. I hop into a cab and head for the centre. The biannual international trade fair has given local hotels a reason to raise prices for a few weeks, but thankfully the lady at reception sees me for the scruffy backpacker I am and halves the published price. I find myself in a lovely room overlooking the Pearl river.
Covered pavement arcades make up much of Guangzhou's centre, with good street restaurant mixed in. Near the hotel is the famous fish market with dried squid stretching as far as the eye can see. A pungent mix of trade delegates and pickpocketing juveniles. The main landmark in all this is the Sacred Heart cathedral, an enormous Gothic building from the late nineteenth century.
Bus to Guangzhou
A stroll back towards the river brings you onto the murky Pearl river which is lit up with torrent of neon at night. Back to the hotel to get some kip.With a local Cantonese breakfast in my belly, I explore the old colonial district of Shamian Island. This became the centre of European trade with China during the mid-nineteenth century and was developed as a home away from home by the British and French. Elegant avenues lined with trees and a central street with gardens make for a suitable retreat from the city outside. At the eastern end lies the pretty French cathedral in white and red. Both European powers built their own customs houses and other trappings of trade, most of which still remain put to new uses. A legacy of the raging opium trade which depleted the Chinese imperial silver reserves and cemented European control in the region. A further explore in town, then back to the hotel and a Cantonese dinner.
Guangzhou has a very efficient metro system and I make use of this the next morning to reach Guangzhou East train station for the express to Shenzhen. The high speed train connects the two cities in an hour, reaching the border with Hong Kong. Onto Shenzhen's own modern metro and out to the trendy new arts district to the west of the city centre. Near its heart lies a very well organised youth hostel. I explore nearby, a mix of galleries and good housing showing Shenzhen's position as a special piece of China's balance between capitalism and communism.
After a quiet night, I head into the centre of town and explore the network of alleyways between the shining skyscapers that dominate the centre.
Guangzhou1
Until the late 70's all that existed here was a small village called Baoan, but the big brother next door and relaxing policies in Beijing helped turn Shenzhen into an example of modern industry. After lunch in a very pleasant local restaurant, I walk back through the finance district to the arts area housing the hostel.Next morning is the time for the most touristy experience of the whole trip so far. On an area of land by the river lies the 'Window of the World' theme park. A bizarre collection of models of famous buildings around the world. Most of these are at 1:15 scale, but at the centre lies a 1:3 Eiffel Tower which, like the original, you can ascend to get great views over Shenzhen and into Hong Kong. Starting in the Asian zone, you walk past various models I saw in their original form only a month before in Thailand, Laos and Indonesia. Heading down, the shape of the Taj Mahal is bizarrely juxtaposed with the Eiffel Tower behind. Europe brings the expected sights, including St. Mark's in Venice and Versailles with the Vatican behind. Then onto the pyramids and Africa, before turning a corner and stumbling on the Americas. The replicas of the Washington DC landmarks are produced to scale and in roughly the correct positions. Then the Manhattan skyline, with two significant buildings' presence showing the age of the model. All in all a pretty bonkers place crammed with Chinese tour groups. Well worth a visit.
Another quiet night in the hostel. I make my way to Huangang and the hyper modern border post with Hong Kong.
Guangzhou2
Formalities complete, I board the KCR and make the 40 minute journey to Tsim Sha Tsui station at the end of the peninsular. Out into the high paced mix of traffic and neon that defines urban Hong Kong. I am booked into a guest house in the Mirador Mansion on Nathan Road, recommended for being 'not as bad as Chungking Mansions' next door. I settle in and have a wander in the area before heading back and chatting to my two new dormmates, a German called Martin and a Dane called Nia.A bright morning greets my first day in Hong Kong. Heading down Nathan Road you reach Victoria Harbour and the Star Ferry terminal. Onto one of the old dependable ferries that chug back and forth over the strait to Hong Kong island. An air conditioned walkway leads up into the maze of shopping malls that fill the lower floors of the office buildings. As it is a Sunday, all of the public squares normally filled with suits are instead filled with Filipino maids picnicking on their one day off. Hoards gathered on free maps as mats and with music blaring from little speakers.
In all this towering forest, a small cathedral sits serenely with 'The Peak' behind. The tram to the top of the hill dominating the island is across the road, but the queue makes me choose another day. I wander back to the water and back to the ferry. A bit more exploring in Kowloon, including the raised park providing some respite from the turmoil. An evening watching football and then a day of organising; sorting out Russian visas, further accommodation and the like. Then more exploring of the northern parts of Kowloon. Another week to go with a trip to Macau at some point. Then Japan.
Comments
Then Japan
You're obviously looking forward to Japan a lot! All looks amazing and sounds fascinating too. Especially the China bit as I speak to so many companies from or operating there. How are you doing, personally, as you observations are mostly external? Enjoying it, chilled out, excited, tired, at peace??
Stuff
Have been looking forward to Japan for ages and have not been disappointed traveling round. Tokyo is a unique place, but I think there are some similarities to the buzz I get in London. Lots of people just getting on with it. The major difference is the lack of a multicultural feel in Tokyo.
China was very interesting to travel through. I`m looking forward to seeing the north to offer some contrast. Such a big place.
As for emotions, I`m good and relaxed. The trip has naturally broken down into three parts. The first was traveling alone in pretty developed countries (most of southern South America is relatively straight forward). Then came SE Asia which was more of an adventure (especially Laos), although Louise joined me for two weeks so a friendly face. Now I`m doing sport in Japan and Korea, so friendly faces and activities I enjoy. Once I leave Korea, it will only be another three weeks until I`m in the south of France. Each part has had a different feel and different emotions.
Naturally, some days you don`t feel at your best, but the buzz of pushing onto the next place is part of traveling I really enjoy. It stops you dwelling on emotions or getting stuck in a rut which sometimes is very easy when you are doing roughly the same thing every day. Part of me will miss that when I stop in September, but another part of me is looking forward to the teacher training and the next step.