Monks, Monkeys and Heffalumps
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2007
1
25
40
Trip End
Aug 2008
Bangkok,
Thailand
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Straight off the bus at the Rainforest Resort, we dump our bags and are onto another minibus to the local elephant sanctuary. Dazed and a little tired from the travel, the rocking mass of an elephant presents an unusual mode of transport. We plunge into the jungle, our vehicle proving a nimble ride over the ledges and streams. The sight of rubber trees releasing their milky sap lies to either side as a storm brews overhead. At the halfway point, we dismount onto a raised platform while the elephants have a well deserved drink and cool off. Then bac onboard, this time with Louise riding on the elephant's neck, her legs slapped by the beast's ears. Back at the start, we dismount and feed our elephant bananas. As we leave, the hard working animals are cooling off with their mahouts showering them with water. We head back to our treehouse at the Rainforest Resort and rest for the next day.
Up early we head to the park front gate and are soon tramping up the park's wooded tracks. After a couple of kilometres, we meet a group of Buddhist monks. Abe, a young english speaking monk, invites us to join them in their hunt for the rare Raflesia flower. Soon we are treking up a creek below a multi-tiered waterfall and then climbing up the side over slippery rocks.
Elephant Trek, Khao Sok
Well off the beaten track now, we wind our way up and down the densely wooded peaks for several hours, seeing bear claw marks in the trees at a couple of points. The monks suddenly get very excited. On the ground ahead lies a very rare Raflesia flower. Only found in this region and flowering once a year, they grow to over 75cm in diameter and are an orangey-purple with a spiky centre. The search satisfied, we drop down to the highway. I find I have picked up a little friend and have to remove a leech from my ankle. Blood sucking mollusc removed, we walk back to the treehouse and the monks head off back to their Wat down the road.After a couple of hours rest and some dinner, we join one of the hotel staff on a night safari. Various frogs and birds are observed, along with some more leeches. Suddenly, we catch a flash of eyes in the jungle. Our guide chases off and the shape of a leopard is clearly visible in his torch light. More walking in the darkness seeing the rich mix of life in the jungle. The next day is more relaxed after a busy week. We swim in the afternoon when I get nipped on the foot by the local equivalent of a piranha. Then we get some massages before watching a raging storm and eating dinner. At dinner we see a Slow Lorie, a small sloth-like creature. The excitement of the hotel staff shows how rarely these creatures venture near humans.
An early start and we are off to the airport at Surat Thani. A flight to Bangkok, then across town to Mo Chit station and a bus to Pak Chong. Into a songthaew (a kind of converted van that serves as a private bus) and off to the entrance of Khao Yai national park.
Elephant Trek, Khao Sok
We then get a lift with a local medical team to the visitors centre and hitch a lift in the back of a pickup to our bungalow deep in the park. On the way we see a wild elephant grazing in the dusk light. Settling into the bungalow, we see a group of Sabar deer walking past.Walking in the morning, we see an array of deer and birds. Then, after moving to a new bungalow, we walk across the old golf course and hitch another pickup ride down to the start of a path to the Haew Suwat waterfall. On the way lies another waterfall with rare orchids at the top, which we climb to have a look. Then off down the path seeing evidence of recent elephant activity in the form of droppings, footprints and gaping holes in hedges. Haew Suwat waterfall is a shelf of rock where a sliver of sparkling water plunges into a deep pool. It is a beautiful location and was used in 'the Beach' film. After a good look, we catch a lift back to the visitors centre and head out on a night safari. Less interesting than in Khao Sok, we sit in the back of a truck as a series of startled deer are illuminated by a spot lamp.
Next morning we are up at 5:15 expecting a guide we had booked. After his 'no show', we head off to a watchtower on foot. We are soon rewarded with the view of 7 elephants across the open plain. We watch until the grazing animals walk into the forest. After another hour observing birds, we head back to the bungalow, seeing more monkeys along the way. Back into Pak Chong and onto a bus east. We get off in the small town of Prakhon Chai in the Isaan region.
Elephant Trek, Khao Sok
Our goal is to see a rare dawn alignment of the Sun with the ancient Khmer temple of Phanom Rung.Checked into the Prakhon Chai Resort Hotel, a series of large sheds on the outskirts of town, we walk into town to arrange transport for the following morning. Two lady motorbike taxi riders are very keen so we book them and head back. Dogs of all shapes and sizes take great interest in our passing but we return unscathed and have an early dinner. Up at 4:30, our rides arrive at 5 and we plunge into the darkness, racing through sleepy villages and up the extinct volcano topped by Phanom Rung. With the glow of dawn to our backs, we walk quickly along the stone avenue and up to the inner compound. A crowd of around 200 is prepared with cameras, and national TV is documenting the event. Some speeches and the big moment comes, where the Sun's rays pass through the 15 openings of the temple marking the start of Songkran (the Thai New Year).
Unfortunately clouds on the horizon shield us from seeing the Sun's first rays. Locals tell us that it is rare to see the actual sunrise. But we enjoy the temple in the warm dawn light, the sandstone cast pink and the intricately carved lintels highlighted beautifully. Back down to our rides and off again to the temple of Prasat Muang Tam. From the same period but different in form, this temple lies in the centre of a village and has large moats filled with elegant lotus flowers emerging. On the way in, we are nabbed by the local tourism agency to appear in one of their adverts for the region.
Elephant Trek, Khao Sok
Our acting complete, we enjoy the temple and head back to town. Soon we have collected our bags and onto a bus back to Bangkok. Arriving mid-afternoon, we head to the tourist enclave of Khao San Road. A crazy mix of hotels and tatoo parlours, with more restaurants and clubs than you could wish for (or would want to in my opinion). Buddy Lodge acts as our haven from this melting pot.Next day we explore Bangkok's royal district. The Grand Palace contains a stunning mix of temples and palaces. The highlight is the Wat Phra Kaeo which houses Thailand's most sacred artifact, the Emerald Buddha. Today is an important day where the king oversees the changing of the little statues gold clothes. Just next door to the palace is Wat Phou. Bangkok's oldest temple, it houses the enormous reclining Buddha, 45 metres in length and with a highly decorated shelter. Still staggered by this monster we wander through Chinatown to a small sidestreet that houses families making Ba'at, traditional alms bowls used by monks. Finally we climb up the immense Golden Mount, with a shrine on top. The view across the cluttered Bangkok skyline is well worth the climb. In the evening we stumble across a Jazz festival in a park by the river. Enjoying the music, we sit on the grass with a cool evening breeze carrying the smells of Bangkok off the river.
After a walk the next morning, we head out to the airport for Louise's departure. Leaving Louise at the security gate, I get back into town and wait for my overnight bus to the Laotian capital of Vientiane.
Comments
Nihon
When you gettin to Japan, Bastiņo?
Re: Nihon
I will be arriving in Japan on the 14th of May. First three weeks traveling and then starts the kendo. More kendo (they call it kumdo) in Korea for a month before turning towards Mussidan. I have to say I can hardly wait.
Hope everything is going well there and hope the season starts well. Will be following the results avidly.
Cheers
R