Continental Drifting
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2007
1
23
40
Trip End
Aug 2008
Kuala Lumpur,
Malaysia
Friday, March 14, 2008
After settling in, I wander west to the Little India area. Centred around Serangoon Road, this area has always been the traditional centre for Indian culture and the profusion of curry houses, temples and fabric shops makes for an amazing mix of sights and smells. I have dinner in one of the curry houses and then head back east into the Arab quarter. The mix changes again, with rugs and mosques now dominating. Heading south brings me back to the hotel.
Singapore
A trudge down North Bridge Road brings me to the colonial heart on an overcast morning. Dodging the showers, I wander round St. Andrews Cathedral, the Supreme Court and City Hall, to reach the lush expanse of the Singapore Cricket Club ground on the Padang. A beautiful space to play, with the CBD looming over on the other side of the river. Towards the bay lie the Durian fruit-shaped domes of the performaning arts centre. Heading south you reach the grand Parliament House, before emerging by the river. Here Raffles is supposed to have landed before establishing Singapore as the key port of the empire in Asia.
South across Elgin Bridge leads to Chinatown and the colourful mix of markets and temples. Within a short walk are 3 highly ornate temples and a mosque, with the insanely decorated Sri Mariamman Hindu temple and the Buddhist Thian Hock Keng standing out. After another heavy shower, I walk back up into the CBD, feeling like an ant beneath the towering glass monuments to Singapore's wealth. Heading back north over the river, I walk past the front entrance of Raffles Hotel and up to the hotel. A long day walking ends with Vietnamese food in the local market.
With clearer skies, I head down to Fort Canning Park to the west of the city centre. Contained within the manicured terraces is the Battle Box, centre of allied command during the Second World War. Now it is open as a museum showing the last day before the Japanese captured the city. It consists of a series of concrete chambers built into the hill that could be sealed off from the outside world. Very spooky and well presented. You get some feel for the tension at the time. Afterwards I head down to the main shopping street called Orchard Road
St. Andrews Cathedral
. Here Singaporeans come to practice the national pasttime of consumption on a grand scale. All the big names plus a multitude of smaller operators. Here also lies the official residence of the President, hidden behind a high fence and extensive grounds. After a good browse, I head back to the hotel. Japanese food and to bed for the bus to Malaysia in the morning.Up early and heading off up the peninsular. The border has a queue of buses, but once our turn comes everything works efficiently as you expect. Into Malaysia, drifting past an expanse of green. My first step is the port town of Melaka. Formerly the centre of the Melaka Sultanate, it was subsequently controlled by the Portugeuse, Dutch, British and Japanese, all with varying degrees of incompetence. The local government are now trying to bring back some of its former glory. After getting into a hotel, I head off into the centre to explore the town.
At Melaka's heart lies the hill of Bukit St. Paul. On its top are the ruins of the Portugeuse church, with a mock up of the Sultan's palace and the old Dutch quarter below. Then by the river lies the old Dutch church and government buildings (Stadthuys). Over the river lies Chinatown with a wide array of buildings in the local Baba-Nonyan (Peranakan) style
St. Andrews Cathedral
. This culture developed when 16th century Chinese merchants married local Malay women. For lunch I try some of the Nonyan cuisine. A delicious mix of Pai Pai (sort of upside down filo pastry 'top hats' filled with sauteed shredded sweet turnip and omlette) and Otak-Otak (fish paste mixed with spices and coconut milk, all cooked on a banana leaf) served with sweet chilli sauce.A walk back over the river brings you to the extraordinary reconstruction of a Portugeuse trade ship which houses the maritime museum. Not the best thought out collection but interesting for the building. Back down through the local shopping area and up to the hotel. More Nonyan food for dinner and then a walk.
In the morning, onto another bus heading north to Malaysia's capital, Kuala Lumpur. Well before reaching the centre, the massive Petronas Towers and KL Tower appear on the horizon. The mix of skyscapers, big and slightly less big, stretches before us. I get into a hotel near the bus station and then wander off into the centre. After exploring the surrounding area, I head up to the large hill that sits at the base of the KL Tower. A walk up through the woods on rope bridges leads to the base of the tower. It is still open so I ride up to the observation deck and take in the view over the city. From the deck, you are on a similar level to the emense Petronas Towers glistening in the late afternoon sun. Out to the west lies Andaman Sea and to the north, the first hills of the Highlands. A glorious view from the 4th highest communication tower in the world. After coming back down, I walk over to the base of the Petronas Towers and gaze up at their lofty tops. Back to the hotel and dinner at a local Malay place.
The next morning, I head over to the traditional centre of town. Centred around Merdeka Square, this was the site where independence was declared in 1957. A cricket pitch lies in the centre, surrounded by tall buildings and the central mosque to the south. Walking past the mosque, you reach the grand old central station with its white spires. I walk back north along Jalan Petaling to Chinatown and its rich array of markets and shops. In the evening I return there for dinner. The next day is a quiet day. Grand prix watching and catching up on the blog. Off north to Butterworth and Penang tomorrow.
