Rockets on the Path to Enlightenment

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  Jakarta, Indonesia
Monday, March 3, 2008

A short becak ride from the hotel is Solo's main station for the train to Jogja. The two Dutch girls I rode up from Probolinggo with happen to be on the same train and we hop on board for the hour long ride to Yogyakarta (Jogja). On arrival, I cross over the road to the Jalan Sosro area which is the main backpacker enclave in town and check into the Anda Losmen. Humble but clean rooms close to the local mosque. I get talking to a local called Atok who's brother lives in Birmingham. Promising to visit his teacher's studio later, I head off into town.

Jogja is a calmer prospect than Solo. The main street, Jalan Malioboro, is lined with street traders selling souvenirs and clothes from all over Indonesia. Jogja is known as being the artistic capital of the country, so the variety and quality is noticeable. After a good wander and sorting out transport to temples tomorrow, I head off with Atok to his university's gallery

Borobudur

. A huge range of Batik paintings and oil work too, I get talked round the collection by one of the teachers. The variety is striking, with a mix of traditional and more modern styles all jumbled together. After buying a few, I head back to get some food and an early night.

The next morning, I catch a 5am bus up to the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan. In the bus I meet an English girl called Kate and we chat away as we cruise between the sites. First stop is Borobudur, which is not only the world's largest Buddhist stupa, but is also the largest monument in the southern hemisphere. It is over 30m high and built in a series of levels to show man's climb to enlightenment. Dark volcanic stone is covered with elaborate carvings until you reach the top level with a series of unadorned stupas called the Sphere of Formlessness surrounding the final huge stupa representing Nirvana. At the top, the view over the surroundiing volcanos is breathtaking. The various europeans I am with soon get surrounded by groups of school children eager to practice their english. The teachers use the site as a good opportunity and bring the groups down from the local schools. I get a friendly group of boys that just want to talk the 'beautiful game'.

After some breakfast, we all pile back in the minibus and head off to the Hindu response called Prambanan

Borobudur

. Both temple complexes were built around 800AD and show the power struggle between kings with different religions. Prambanan is a series of temples that look almost like rockets. Three enormous temples covered in carvings lie in the centre, surrounded by the ruins of 224 smaller temples. Although badly affected by earthquakes over the years, the temples are being restored to their former glory by UNESCO. Both Borobudur and Prambanan will hopefully continue to be saved by their World Heritage status. Back on the bus, we head back to Jogja, tired but glad to have seen the wonders.

A bit more exploring the following morning in an area called Prawirotaman, east of the Jogja centre. Then time for another parcel home. The process in Indonesia is much more involved than New Zealand, with government officials checking every item. Then off to the official packers, then back to the first desk to complete various forms. More exploring in the afternoon.

A bright sunny morning greets my trip to the main royal palace in Jogja. The area called the Kraton house a wide range of buildings and at the heart lies the Sultan's Palace, otherwise known as Ngayogyokarto Hadiningrat. Similar to Solo, it consists of a series of courtyards that contain the various pendopos and pavillions that make up the royal residence. Also in the array of buildings lies a museum showing a mix of royal artifacts. Every Sunday morning they have a gamelan and dancing practice for the royal performers so I watch this for a while and then visit the royal puppet making studio. The rest of the day I spend exploring the markets off Jalan Malioboro.

Another day, another train

Borobudur

. Off across the west of Java, a sparkling series of paddy fields and rivers set in front of the volcanos running down the spine of the island. I arrive at Gambir station in Jakarta's central square and wander down to the backpackers area of Jalan Jaksa. Feeling a little under the weather, I settle into the hotel and have a bit of food locally. It is an interesting mix of migrant workers, young travellers and middle aged men walking round with young Indonesian girls. Must be their nieces!

Since I'm going to be in town a while, I decide to get my Chinese visa sorted out. Into a taxi and down to the plush area of Kuningan, south of the city centre. While in the various queues, I meet an English/Aussie guy called Kevin. He has come to Jakarta for work and we chat to pass the time. With the form in, I head back to Jaksa and spend the afternoon exploring the local area. Still feeling under the weather, I grab some food and an early night.

Back to the Chinese embassy the following morning and success, a nice fresh visa in the passport. I bump into Kevin again and we exchange email addresses, agreeing to meet up at the weekend for a drink. I head back to Jaksa and sleep a lot of the day trying to shift this cold. In the evening, I chat to two Swedes, Stefani and Peter

Borobudur

. Both travelling independently, we share info on the places we have been.

Feeling better the next day, I head off to the old Dutch port of Kota (Batavia). At its heart lies the Taman Fatahillah, a large white stone expanse with the odd tree and hawker. I first go into the former Governor's residence which now serves as a rather muddled collection showing the history of Jakarta. Next comes the museum dedicated to puppetry, housed in an old Dutch church. It is crammed full of puppets from all over Indonesia and the world. Full of bright colours and characters. After a stop for coffee at the old colonial haunt of Cafe Batavia, I go to the national fine art museum. Another muddled collection in an old colonial building, but some interesting modern pieces by local artists. Heading north you reach the old port of Sunda Kelapa. Out of here operates a traditional fleet of wooden schooners, the largest remaining fleet of sail powered cargo ships in the world. Today they all seem to be loading cement as I wander down the endless series of gangplanks. Nearby is the maritime museum. A real mixed bag of local traditional boats and European colonial efforts. The highlight is the building itself. Formerly a series of Dutch pepper and spice warehouses, little has changed in the vast wooden structures. Tired from a long days walking, I head back to the hostel.

Borobudur

The next day is Friday so much of the city shuts for the Sabbath. I head to the movies to catch a film. The rest of the day is mundane. Laundry, eating, etc. The morning brings another explore and then in the evening I meet up with Kevin at the Shangri-La hotel bar for some food. We then head off to the notorious party area of Blok M. By most standards, it is pretty laid back for a party area. The only really noticeable thing is the everpresent huddle of young ladies around middle aged European men. More nieces. Around 3am, Kevin and I decide to call it a night. A late start on Sunday, watching football and planning some future steps. Then off to the airport Monday. Singapore and the northern hemisphere await.

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Borobudur	Borobudur	Borobudur	Prambanan
Prambanan	Prambanan	Prambanan	Prambanan
Jogja	Jogja	Jogja	Jogja
Jogja	Jakarta	Jakarta	Jakarta
Jakarta	Jakarta	Jakarta	Jakarta
Jakarta	Jakarta

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