Just Call Me Noah
Trip Start
Nov 16, 2007
1
20
40
Trip End
Aug 2008
Darwin,
Australia
Sunday, February 17, 2008
In the evening, I arrange transport and join in a BBQ night the hostel is having. A large storm rages off in the distance which takes out the substation and the lights go out for a hundred kilometers along the coast, giving a beautiful view of the sky when the clouds allow. I spend the rest of the night talking to two German girls on holiday from their jobs with Mercedes.
The next day, I head off early on the ferry to Fraser Island across the bay
Hervey Bay
. The largest sand island in the world, it is one of the 4 world heritage sites in Australia, containing a rich mix of environments for birds and mammals. At our first stop, we see one of the key features, King Ferns that have been on Earth longer than just about any other plant. Then we head up to a beautiful lake called McKenzie. Swimming is wonderful in the clear fresh water and it makes a pleasant change from swimming in the sea. On the way to the east coast, we have a dingo running alongside. The purest strain of dingos in Australia, the gold and white dog is thought to have been brought over with the chinese traders around 2000 years ago. After lunch at a resort in the middle of the island's east coast, we drive about 30km north up the beach to a wrecked cruise liner from the early 20th century, some sandstone formations called the Pinnacles and finally another swim in a freshwater creek that bursts out onto the beach. A bumpy ride back across the island and then the ferry back to Hervey Bay. After some dinner at the hostel, I head into town to catch the evening bus upto Airlie Beach.Airlie Beach acts as the main gateway to the Whitsunday Islands, harbouring many sailing and motor boats that hop around the group of 74 tree covered islands. It is entirely setup for tourism, with everything stretching along one main road along the shorefront. I check into a hostel and book a cruise around the islands the next day
Hervey Bay
. All the reports talk of a monsoon trough spreading down from the north. Fingers crossed for tomorrow.After some food and a good nights sleep, I head down to the marina to join the Voyager on her daily trip round the islands. A modern catamaran, we pound across to our first stop, Hook Island, and first go down into the dingy tube of the historic observation deck by the pier. A better view is had next on a semi-submersible, glass bottomed boat they take over to the reef. We get lucky and a sea turtle swims right underneath where I am sitting. An amazing sight. Next on the island, we get to do some snorkelling, with a huge array of fish on display. It is a little murky due to all the rain, but still a lot of fun.
Back on the boat, we head over to Whitehaven Beach on Whitsunday Island. A beautiful 6km stretch of white sand only spoilt by the strengthening rain coming down from the front of the monsoon. After a walk in the rain, we have lunch on board while heading to the resort island of Daydream Island. Only one kilometer in length, it is covered in tourist facilities, save for a rainforest walk that I trudge down in the rain. My fellow passengers choose the cover instead which may have been the wise choice. With the monsoon now bringing stronger winds, we crash and roll through the waves back to Airlie Beach
Fraser Island
. I spend the evening watching the rain taking to two Irish girls and a guy from Newcastle, all heading out to sea tomorrow. I was due to head off, but my bus is cancelled due to growing floods up north. Resigned to my fate, I check into a rapidly filling hotel.Daybreak brings torrential rain after a night of downpours, and the little town by the sea wakes to carnage. Localised flooding all along the northern Queensland coast is the main story on the national news, but the worst was reserved for the sea. On the shore the shattered remains of a catamaran illustrate the strength of the storm. Word spreads of a large sailing ship with 27 tourists onboard washed up on the rocks. Left with nothing, the mix of Australians, Brits and Americans was left on the rocks for 8 hours before a rescue helicopter could winch them to safety. My problem is far less severe, but frustrating. No buses today so back into the hotel, grabbing the last room. A day of watching rain.
Hope for a bus the following day is vindicated when the floods diminish enough for services to resume north. Mid-afternoon I manage to get moving again and head for the third city of Queensland, Townsville. Passing through a few floods, we manage to make it through before the rains start again
Fraser Island
. The next morning, a German couple I met in Airlie Beach arrive after a boat trip. Glad to see they are safe, I explore the small centre of Townsville. Pleasant enough but not much there. Reports of the monsoon returning north prove accurate and heavy rain washes over the town.The next day is a washout with heavy rain all day. The road to Airlie Beach is closed once more, with Mackay down the coast completely flooded. I spend the day at laundry and films, praying I can get out of Townsville in the morning. I get the chance to talk to Marco, my dormmate. From Italy, he has been traveling and working for the last 3 years, while practising his hobby of the didgeridoo. A very nice guy and a great musician.
With some concern, I head to the bus station and the 7am service to Mount Isa. The driver warns that there are floods and we may not make it. All seems well until we reach the far side of Charters Towers. A series of deep floods is blocking the road over a 30km stretch. With no way round we sit and wait. Reports come from other drivers of over 1m depth in places, but eventually the driver picks up the courage to have a go. Luggage is brought above and side flaps opened to allow the flood waters to pass through the bus without washing us sideways. We head on through the fast flowing waters. At points, the rail line running parallel has been washed away and a whole section of tarmac has been lifted off and dumped at the side of the road.
Eventually we make it past the worst and onto the mining town of Mount Isa. The next driver is a bit put out by our lateness but assures us that the bus at Tennant Creek will wait
Fraser Island
. We plundge on into the night, four passengers heading over the border to Northern Territory. After a quick change at Tennant Creek, we thunder north in the dawn light, passing through the edge of the Tanami Desert before entering the rainforest around Darwin. After 33 hours, I finally arrive in the northern most city in Australia.Darwin is a charming town compared to the other northern towns I have seen. It is the capital of Northern Territory and has been molded by adversity, bombed heavily during World War II and then pummeled by Cyclone Tracy in the 80's. The first day I relax after the journey and get some chores done. In the evening I head to a local bar for dinner and watch the Aussie Rules Football.
Exploring the city the next day, the newness of everything is striking, much having been rebuilt after the cyclone. The grand white buildings of the state legislature and judiciary sit looking over the old Governor's House and the harbour. Alongside lie the ruins of the old town hall, a memento from the early days of the colony, again destroyed by the cyclone. Wandering back to the hotel, the heavens open again. Darwin seems better able to handle it though with none of the floods of northern Queensland. I watch a film and then head out to grab some dinner. Leaving for Indonesia tomorrow, it makes a damp end to my journey across Australia.
The next day, I catch a shuttle bus out to the airport. With time to kill until the flight, I chat to a Dutch girl called Inga who is going to Bali too. The time soon drifts to boarding and I leave the english world again. Time for a new country, west to Bali and Indonesia.
