At Home With the Lions

Trip Start Nov 16, 2007
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19
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Trip End Aug 2008


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Flag of Australia  ,
Wednesday, February 6, 2008

The overcast weather from the previous night in Sydney is a sign of things to come as the bus storms up the east coast to the quiet seaside town of Port Macquarie. Charming in a way but a little quiet with the hordes having returned to school and work. I check into a hostel and wander into the centre to explore the well manicured streets. The local restaurants are a mixed bag of tourist focused eateries, but a pancake place looks good so I settle into ham and cheese pancake for dinner. Tasty. Wandering back in the dusk, the beaches are shrouded in a fine mist that gives everything a rather spooky look.

The next day, I make for the beach in the morning. Although overcast, the sandy stretch of Flynn's Beach makes for a great place to swim and watch the surfers play. After an hour or so, I head inland to the nearby Koala Hospital and a historic Roto house next door Byron Bay
Byron Bay
. The koalas are picked up from around the area and brought to this specialist unit for treatment. Many of the cases are burns from bushfires, but the main ailment is a condition called 'Wet Bum', associated with an epidemic of chlamydia in koalas, the randy buggers. With a bus at 1.45am to Byron Bay, I get some dinner in a Thai restaurant, and then drink a few cups of tea outside the KFC by the bus stop. The teenager serving me offered me a pleasant wish to enjoy my meal each time, although I feel this could be overkill for a brew.

As soon as we leave Port Macquarie the heavens open, and the 7 hour drive north to Byron Bay is through monsoon-like conditions. This continues on arrival at the normally idyllic resort and a day in the hostel is the plan for everyone there. In the evening there is pizza laid on so everyone shares the gazing at the rain from the covered deck, munching deep pan. I get talking to the guy above me in the dorm. Chester has just turned 19 and is thinking about a place to study Philosophy at UCL on his return. A bit of a jack the lad, he has a load of get rich quick schemes he is thinking about as well.

Next morning it is still raining. Raincoat on, I head for the main pub in the centre and watch the Superbowl with a load of other hostellers and some locals Byron Bay
Byron Bay
. A great game with the Giants beating the Patriots with a game winning touchdown in the last 40 seconds. After this, I brave the heavy rain and head up to the main beach and take some photos. It must be stunning in better conditions, but unfortunately it was not ment to be. I trudge back to the hostel and watch a cricket match in the evening, explaining the rules to two confused Israelis eager to learn.

The morning brings little change and a bedraggled huddle waits for the morning bus to Brisbane. Thankfully the clouds lift as we reach town. I check into a hostel and head straight off to the Gabba, Brisbane's main stadium. A trinational cricket series is underway between Australia, Sri Lanka and India. This is one of the games not involving the hosts, so tickets are easy to come by. The crowd is a typically vociferous subcontinent mix. Watching Tendulkar and Sehwag bat together is a real treat, and Dhoni and Gambhir bat brilliantly for a partnership of 180, and a fifty and century respectively. The game was well poised when the heavens opened again to chase the players and fans back into the stadium. I leave with the rain still pouring and the Indian and Sri Lankan fans trading songs.

Back at the hostel, I bump into Chester again. The in-hostel pub is staging a mini Olympics and he is in it with another English guy called Kieran Byron Bay
Byron Bay
. I support them with a Canadian called Patrick. A lovely guy escaping Horticulture in Toronto for a bit. I also get to know two of the girls from my room, newly graduated Liz and Gemma. The night goes on a long time and everyone is thoroughly sozzled by the time we make our way to our respective rooms.

An overcast morning greets my walk through the city the next day. I head down to the eastern side of the CBD, past the imposing Customs House and catch the City Cat round to the South Bank, a great way to see the city. The two art galleries (modern and classic) are here, both stunning buildings by the river, and there is also a Nepalese temple from the '88 Expo along with a beach. Walking back across the bridge into the city you pass the grand City Hall and the Casino, a vast converted colonial building. A bit more pottering before turning north back to the hostel.

Within 1km of reaching the hostel, the heavens open with an epic storm, to the point where the next building becomes invisible. I get a haircut in the bus station I am taking refuge in, as a river forms down Roma Street. Watching people running into the station after work, I watch for the storm to pass then head back to the hostel. Karaoke tonight and also Patrick's last night so celebration and belting out some tunes is the order of the night Gabba
Gabba
. After what can only be described as some shocking perfomances of the classics, Gemma, Liz, me and a guy called Paul, decide to head onto another bar at closing time. Coincidentally it has karaoke too and some more fun follows. Then, Dave, a Brisbane local we were talking to offers to take us to another place, a bar under one of the backpackers in town. Into his car and off we fly, a little too literally on some of the bumps. The place is rammed and we dance until 4. A great night had by all.

Punishment comes the following morning, but since the day is a belter, Liz, Gemma and me head down to the South Bank and the idyllic beach pool by the river there. After a couple of hours of swimming and sun soaking, I head back into the city to see a bit more of the centre, this time bathed in glorius rays rather than washed away in the floods. Brisbane is a beautiful city, with well thought out galleries and arcades weaving through the bases of skyscrapers. The transport system seems to work pretty well too, with ferries rushing up and down the river and the buses having their own dedicated highway tunnels. After a really good Japanese meal for dinner, I have a quiet night with my fellow hostellers, before heading to bed. Early bus to Hervey Bay tomorrow, continuing north.
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