Secret Beaches and Hostel Hell
Trip Start Oct 02, 2012
56Trip End Mar 31, 2014
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El Nido bus station is out of town, so when we miraculously arrive in one piece six hours later, we get a tricycle to the main street and try a few guesthouses. Tired and weary we agree to a tiny room. At first glance it is do-able for the 2 days we want it for...however once we get the key and look properly it turns out to be a little piece of hell. The bed fills the room
Anyway, after the days travel and the stress from the hell-hostel, we are feeling done in and haven't eaten since breakfast, about 8 hours ago. We popped our malaria tablets (on empty stomachs) about an hour ago and now we both feel ill. Seriously ill. As we sit waiting for food we are close to passing out and/or vomiting. The heat in the resturant is unbearable and we struggle to say five words to each other over dinner. After food we head straight to bed still feeling awful. We will not be taking the pills on empty stomachs from now on
After a much needed nights sleep we awake refreshed and head out to follow the advice of Airportman. He told us to head north and eventually we will find a beautiful deserted beach. The beach our guesthouse is on is nice enough but if you were to critisize it you would say it is a little busy on both sides. The water has lots of ships floating in it which makes swimming hard and the beach is crowded with guesthouses. Its alright but nothing special. So we pack water and trek north along the beach which soon thins out and then turns to a mudflat. Walking is tricky but it soon opens back up into another beach. This beach is still fairly unimpressive. Less guesthouses; its more spaced out resorts now, although most look like they haven't seen a guest in years. Theres only 3 or 4 people on this stretch of beach and no ships bobbing in the sea. The sand is still quite coarse and the sea a bit too rocky to swim. We stop for a while wondering if this is really the amazing beach Airportman had told us about. It seemed altogether disappointing if it is. We look further north but all that can be seen are waves crashing on an outcropping of black rocks which look jaggerd and dangerous. There is no path leading beyond this beach, only the rocks and sea on one side and the dense jungle on the other. We stare north for a while longer and talk about heading back, but as we are now hardcore explorers we walk towards the dangerous looking rocks instead
On the way back the balance of nature is restored and we get some bad to go with our massive lump of good fortune. A strap on one of Anna's favourite flip flops snaps - actually, her only pair of flip flops, and Ian catches his ankle on a rock while telling Anna to be careful! It's a smallish cut but he braves the agony (with minimal whining). We improvise a makeshift strap for the flip flop and slowly trudge home. It turns out that we are also very, very, sunburnt. Ouch.
We return to a beach restaurant we passed earlier in the day for our evening meal. The Danish owner is hanging about, meeting and greeting and generally looking after things. We spend all our time watching him. Its impossible not to, he moves in the strangest way and we can't take our eyes off him. It's like he has had his spine fused, has had robot arms and legs attached, is utterly blind drunk, and is wearing someone elses skin. We are mesmerized by him. The food is wonderful and the setting romantic. So romantic that even the camp waiter is giving Ian the eye - he may be attracted to the new glowing red tan Ian had just acquired. Tomorrow we stay in the shade.