Tarapoto

Wednesday, 2nd May.

Moyobamba 1

It's May, already time is flying. It is 2am in the morning and our alarm clocks have gone off  annoyingly early. We remained in bed until about 2.40am. We went out the front at 3am as the minibus was to pick us up between 3am and 3.15am. As we have had bad experiences with Peru buses, Barb was quite concerned that the bus would perhaps have a full compliment and not bother to pick us up. At about 3.20am still no bus and a number of Motocabs had arrived and like vultures were trying induce Barb to go with them to the bus depot. They all kept saying that the bus would not come to the hotel. All this competition for one and a half sol, or about A$0.60. Just as Barb had decided to go to catch the coach, we saw the light (only one headlight worked) of the bus coming down the road. We were first on and it was then back to the depot to wait for the full compliment and the "3.00 am" bus finally left at 3.50 am. The seats could have been harder, but only just. First light was about 5.30 and we were delighted to find ourselves surrounded by rugged mountains covered with unspoilt jungle. It was a real treat until we got to Tarapoto. The road was something like the World's Worst Road  in Bolivia, mud and slush, steep precipices, half cleared rockfalls,  waterfalls. Having "bus bums" when we arrived in Tarapoto, we decided whilst having the worst breakfast so far in Peru to go in comfort on the Estella coach to Moyobamba. To catch this we simply asked the motocab driver to take us to the Movil Bus depot which is surrounded by the rest of the bus companies.

Moyobamba 2

It was a comfortable bus and although we were still in the mountains the scenery changed to   that of farming land until we reached Moyobamba.

Moyobamba does not feature at all in LP South America 2004, yet it is fully described in LP Peru, 2000.

We chose to stay at Hostal Albricias at Avinida Alvarado  1066. It is  very pleasant.  The tariff is 30 sol per double room with TV and hot water. Restaurant attached.

Barb is feeling lethargic, has a headache, she is dreaming of a tomato and bitey cheddar cheese sandwich in a grain roll and a glass of South Australian red  followed by a nut slice from the 7th Ave Bakery. Poor girl! Suffering delusions as well.

Moyobamba 3

A  visit to the tourist office was helpful. Not only do they have an excellent map of Moyobamba, there are other useful brochures, and one of the staff spoke good English. We decided to walk to the orchid garden (Waqanki)  about  4km out of  town then to the thermal springs. The landscape outside Moyobamba is very pretty  and we cannot understand why the town doesn't rate a mention in Lonely Planet. Anyway, our visit  to the orchid garden took so long (and cost only 1.5 sol each, with a knowledgeable guide) the springs will have to wait till tomorrow. Note for next time, wear shoes (there are ants with a fiery bite), long pants and repellent (mossies and sandflies).  We organized a birding trip with a local enthusiast, and have to be back there at 6am.

Moyobamba 4

Pete tried to lose his hat again, but Barb noticed its absence and sent him back to collect it. Back in town we found a parilla restaurant, and for 16 sol between us (A$6.30)  we each had a mammoth piece of BBQ chicken, a mountain of chips, salad, spicy sauces, a beer, AND a small glass of wine. Our faith in Peruvian food is restored. To celebrate a decent meal we took a motocarro back to the hotel.