The Mighty Rio
Trip Start
Aug 16, 2007
1
40
52
Trip End
Jul 16, 2008
Rio de Janeiro,
State of Rio de Janeiro,
Brazil
Friday, April 25, 2008
Day 1
Not that exciting really, arrived late and feeling nervous about the forever heard about dangers just took a stroll down to Ipanema beach and Copacabana to have a look round. The hostel was in a really great location so we were pleased with that and it seemed really good which is apparently hard to find in Rio, so again we were happy.
Day 2
Took a trip round the Rosihna favella to see what it's like to be in the City of God (not the exact one from the film as that was too far way but very similiar). We got picked up about 10am and taken to the foot of the favella which you may or may not know is pretty much always based on a hill. From there we took a motorbike ride to the top, up through the main street that runs through it. The drivers are absolutely nuts by the way! We ducked, weaved and squeazed ourway up the hill and encountered numerous near death experiences on the way and were both more than happy when we disembarked at the summit. From there we did a walking tour through the streets from top to bottom. It's quite amazing to see how some people live and not just a few, half a million in this one alone and there a 500 favella's in total in just the one state, that's a lot of poverty. They live in these small, dirty houses that are stacked on top of one another. The more expensive ones are near the top because all the shit such as rain, sewage and garbage runs down through the favella from top to bottom and the cheaper ones at the bottom.
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Apparently, due to lack of space, the people sell their roofs for other dwellers to build on top of them and then they sell theirs and so on. Needless to say the foundations ain't great and buckle under the pressure of mutliple houses on top of one another. They also don't pay tax, they steal there electricity by hooking themsleves into the power supply and they don't pay any other domestic bills eitther. We were told doctors, lawyers and other people who work in the city commute out of the favella to work everyday and then back again so that they can live cheaper. This pisses other 'normal' poeple off a bit as you can imagine.It's basically a town within a city that has a law unto itself especially when it comes to drugs and gangs. You've all seen the film, or if you haven't you need to, and the gangs are portrayed in that film in a pretty accurate way, or so I was told. We saw the guys with walky talkies guarding the favella and we saw fireworks being let off as a warning to the others that the police are on their way. The gangs pretty much control the favella and fight against other favellas for control but that's only a small part of it and the rest of the half a million people get on with life much like everyone else, only in much poorer conditions. We saw a dead cat as well which was grim!
Day 3
We got up early(ish) and saw the weather was partly cloudly but OK so decided to check the weather forecast for the rest of the week to see when was best to go and see the christ statue that overlooks the city.
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The useless weather report said it was rainy for the rest of the week so we decided to go straight away. The statue was pretty cool and it was good to see such an important landmark but it was a little hazy so we didn't get the view from the top we expected and could only just make out the various landmarks of this extraordinary city. I did get to feed a monkey through which was enticed over with a bannana by our very excitable taxi driver.In the afternoon we went to the beach in Ipanema which, unaware at the time, is split in sections and we sat in the gay section. Needless to say I stood out like a sore thumb but was a definite hit, appealing to both the men and women of Rio. Now I'm not what you'd call a beach person, I get bored too easily and it's gotta be pretty special to keep me entertained. Ipanema beach may not be a tropical paradise but what it lacks in beauty it makes up in character and atmosphere. There's the sellers that try to sell you all sorts, namely Acai (a local fruit drink), cheese on a stick (that's cooked on a portable BBQ), cigs, beer, sort drinks, shrimps, dresses, bikini's, sarongs, balls, coconut and nuts etc etc. It's awesome, you don't have to lift a finger all day, it's all brought right to you as you chill out. There's also the people, some are too cool for school, others just have a good time but all are good to sit and watch, especially the beautiful women with there Brasilian Bikini's on that have the are the same size at both front and back, if ya know what I mean.
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And also, for Vikki, the muscle bound men with their Fisher in Ibiza esq, skint tight speedo's on. The sea in itself is also a source of much entertainment, with huge waves crashing right next to the shore allowing only the very brave or stupid to get in and past them for a cool off. I could watch people getting nailed by them all day, bikini tops and shorts floating up everywhere. Of the evening we went for a Brazilian meal and I opted for the much recommended 'Pig Broth'. This consisted of a starter of black bean soup in a little bowl that you drink but in which you drop some potent chilli oil, it was beautiful. Then came the main course, pig, pig and more pig. You get rice and beans (a staple for most meals in Brazil), served with 2 pots of stew. In pot one was what bthe manager called the class 1 meat, i.e. rib, belly and tongue of all things. In pot two was the class 2 meat, i.e. tail, ear and hoof! Great! I ate quite a lot of pot one and not much of two, although we tried everything, Vikki included. It was a really good experience made better by a very helpful and friendly manager.
Day 4
Met back up with Esther which was cool and sat on the beach then went for a couple of drinks in the evening, sampling for the first time, a Caiparihna, made of cachaca (or vodka or rum if you prefer) but no mixer, only crushed lime, ice and sugar. They totally blow your head off as I found out later in the week. We didn't overdo it tonight though and just had a couple.
Day 5
Got quite friendly with some people in our hostel and surrounding hostels, so again, spent the day on the beach before preparing for a bit night out in Lapa.
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Lapa is pretty much a street party and it was mobbed with locals and us 'Gringo's' stood out like a sore thumb. In Brazil anyone can basically sell what they want so on the street there are stalls everywhere selling beers and Caiparihna's for less than a pound each and it goes on till 6am, maybe later. We stayed on the street till about 2am then headed for a not so good club till about 5ish. The street thing was cool though but totally nuts and a little intense at times as we were hounded to buy things off children, a girl had her camera snatched and we were looked at a little funny at times. Twas a good night though.Day 6
Hungover and tired we went out to meet Esther and her new boyfriend who lives in Rio and went to see an exhibition by David LaChapelle, who you may or may not know is a famous fashion photographer. Really enjoyed it depsite the hangover and was nice to meet Tiago who took us to some local estblishments for a bite to eat. We then chilled and went out for an all you can eat BBQ late at night which was another meat on a skewer thing and was very nice.
Day 7
Football day! Watched United beat Arsenal then headed off to the Maracana to see Flamengo Vs Botofogo. The format of Brazilian football is strange so not sure of the exact importance of the game but it was pretty important I was told and it was a local derby. The stadium wasn't packed because it holds about 120k people but it was busy, I'd say about 80k were there so the atmosphere was amazing. Again, every need is catered for as things are brought to your seat. Between about 10 of us we drank loads of beer and got involved in the singing etc. We were sat with the Flamengo fans who were the most vocal but they lost 3-0 so they weren't best pleased. Afterwards we went to a local area and somehow, through asking at the hostel and taxi drivers, ended up at a very quaint samba evening out on the streets. We stayed there for a few very drunk hours where we had more Caiparihna's and danced with the locals then went home when it finished about midnight. When we got back I was sick as usual when I drink too much these days and then went to bed.
Day 8
Chilled all day then got a night bus to Trancoso to check out some of Brazils most famous beaches. North of Rio is getting away from the Gringo trail a bit so we were looking forward to seeing what lay ahead. We got the bus with Steve and Jade, a kiwi couple we met and who we have arranged to travel with for the next couple of weeks. We said goodbye to Esther as well, who I might add, was particualry murdered at the football as well but we have arrnged to meet her again in Bolivia.
