Hotel snafu and Texan in need of beef detox!

Trip Start Jan 15, 2010
Trip End Nov 09, 2010

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Where I stayed
Ayres de San Telmo Hostel

Flag of Argentina  ,
Wednesday, January 27, 2010

We arrived in BA on January 25th.  I had booked us a "hotel" that was listed in Rough Guide called Che Lulu (looks awesome, right??). The website advertised a "trendy hotel".  I booked it in advance since it is summer break so everyone warned that places would book up fast.  The night before we left Iguazu we decided to look up Che Lulu on Trip Advisor.  The reviews were horrible-- but we decided it couldn't be THAT bad, so we went there.  Well... it WAS THAT BAD!!  We walked in to paint peeling, dingy, dirty, YUCK!!!  The lady showed us a couple of rooms- one for $45 bucks and one for $70 bucks, both with mold in the showers, dirt on the floor and yuck yuck yuck! (did I say yuck?!)  So, we told the lady we were NOT staying there.  She was kind enough to let us use her internet to find another place--We went straight to Trip Advisor, pulled the top 3 places and started callng!   but then my fancy brand spanking new international cell phone didn't work!! ugh!  But then, she offered to call the places for us.  The first 2 were booked--so at first I was wondering if she was going to try and pull the wool over our eyes, but the 3rd place had availability. She made the reservation for us, charged us a 30% cancellation fee and called us a taxi.  I swear that is how they make their money--30%!!@*!  Anyway, we were happy to escape and ended up at a great place, called Ayres de San Telmo, in a great location and ~$50/night, private room with bath.  Jeff was so pissed off he even posted a review on Trip Advisor

Then we had a lovely time in BA!!  We walked along the Puerto Madero (newly revitalized port area with restaurants, bars, cinema, etc) and ate dinner at Siga La Vaca, an all you can eat MEAT place.  We gorged ourselves on all sorts of random cuts of meat (note to self, learn spanish words for entrails!!!) and drank two bottles of wine and a pitcher of beer for ~$60 bucks.  Amazing!  On our second day in BA we went to the Recoleta cemetary where Eva Peron is buried.  This place is incredible.  These are rows and rows of mini sanctuaries and if you peek into the windows you can see the stairs leading down into what I guessed were the crypts--although there are also coffins just inside on the other side of the doors.   

On our way into the cemetary, we we stopped by a guitar player outside and he was such a lively guy I couldn't help but get drawn in. Jeff took a video  of me being serenaded by "El Caminante Argentino" (who, happens to have a website!) and posted it on YouTube!  

We also wandered to Florida Street and around the center of town and had lunch at one of the many streetside cafes (tenderloin sandwich with cheese, ham and egg- how's that for protein??).  That evening we had a bottle of Malbec wine from Mendoza at the oldest cafe in BA, Cafe Tortoni and had a very touristy experience :)  So, overall, we are still tourists (as opposed to backpackers), but I'm okay with that--gotta ease into these things... ;)

Our last evening in BA, we went to La Boca.  The only tourist attraction (besides football matches) that I know of in La Boca is "el caminito", which is a little street of old tin houses painted bright colors in one of the oldest neighborhoods in BA.  We took a taxi and arrived fairly late in the evening--this was the first taxi who locked his doors as soon as we told him where we were going so that made us raise our eyebrows---There wasn't really too much too see so we then flagged another taxi to take us to a restaurant that was highly recommended by one of Jeff's friends and had rave reviews in Trip Advisor (our new favorite website, btw).  It was called "El Obrero".  Everything we read warned of the "scary" neighborhood it was in.  At first, Jeff was trying to talk me into walking there, but as it was dusk I was a little nervous... we flagged down a taxi which was an experience into itself.  The cabbie was an older gentleman and the taxi was at least as old as he was--it creaked and sputtered all the way through the ghetto to El Obrero.  It was definitely located in a sketchy neighborhood but once inside it was a wonderful place with lots of local character.  We started with a delicious cheese appetizer called Provoletta.  It is simply a big hunk of provolone cheese seared on the grill so it forms a little crust and has some sort of herbs sprinkled on top.  WOW.  Then, we had a salad (our first greens in days as we have been afraid of the water!!) and the piece de resistance--more MEAT!!  But these were mouth watering cuts of meat- Jeff had what we believe was prime rib and I had beef tenderloin.  We lingered over our meal for about 3 hours.  It was fabulous!  But, I must admit I am really looking forward to the farm life where I will be eating mostly fresh veggies for 3 weeks!!
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mackie` on

loved the pics. lYa'll be careful........did the junior mounted possee...round an hour in Bedias this morning....34'...really chillly.....felt good to ride....fancy dance tonite and did a cook off last night in CS.....Ben has enjoyed reading your travel log also. miss you, love, mackie

ikal1150 on

It can be difficult to find vegetables, other than potatoes, down there! especially in the winter months.

Daryl on

I did the Master Cleanse for 3 days after I returned from a month in Brazil of the meatapalooza! It worked!

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