Still hanging out on Zanzibar Island

  Zanzibar, Tanzania
Friday, December 16, 2005

Hi Everyone,

You'll have to bear with us for this entry. After 10 days on this island we have what we are calling total "beach brain" Not much ability to think properly anymore, and it's just too darn hot to try or even care, lol. So it may be more like a bunch of rambling rather than an organized entry of proper writing.

We are really feeling like we are getting familar with the local customs and culture here now. We have most of the basics down with the Swahili language. We even tried to talk to some young Masai men on one of our bus trips. It was fun, we couldn't understand each other much, but we were all excited to try and communicate. We showed them where we lived on a world map. They shook our hands several times, and again when they got off the bus. We have had to get used to shaking hands here too. Most people do not do a firm hand shake like in North America. It is a gentle holding of the hand.

We spent a few more days exploring the area of Stonetown and its cobbled streets. The spice tour we did was wonderful. We got to see spices in their raw unprocessed form. Ahhhhh, the smells. Fresh cloves, cinnamon cut right off the tree, pepper, cardamom, and my favorite (Audrey) fresh ylang ylang. Lunch was included, all cooked with the spices from the farm. We sat crossed legged on the floor and ate. We chatted with a couple who were driving all the way from France to South Africa! They have done it several times and had lots of interesting stories to tell us. Including their bad experience in Nairobi, unfortunatley theirs was a story of the theft of all their camera equipment, their passports and all their insurance information for their vehicle.

We went to the local muesuem in Stonetown, it was quite interesting showing the life of the local people who first inhabited the area. It also showed the building of the Dhow boats that are so frequently seen here. Amazingly they are built without the use of any nails, bound together entirely with coconut fibres!

We made our way to the other side of the island ( both to the northern tip and the eastern side) a must do if you come to Zanzibar. We first stayed in the village at the Northern tip called Nungwi. It is known as the party place of the island, but didn't seem too much so to us. Although we did see some people start up as early as 10:30am with their drinks! It did have a neat bar in the middle of the beach. It was made of two giant wooden boats with the bar in the middle of them and seating around it. It blasted out what we would call African techno rap into the wee hours of the morning. Some interesting smells also came wafting out of the area later at night, I'm sure you can use your imagination, lol



The water and beaches are so beautiful. White, silky smooth sand and turquoise shades of water for miles. Our place was right along side the beach. It was so relaxing. Clean, and basic, bed, mosquito net, fan. What more could you need. And of course a million dollar view. All for the whopping price of $35 a night. It is better than the caribbean, more beautiful, a fraction of the tourists, cheap, great food, what more could you want.



We must comment on the food overall for our travels in Africa. We were a bit concerned about what there would be to eat here, especially being vegetarian. We have been so impressed with all the food we have eaten. It is very flavourful, well presented, and fresh. Just about everywhere has real wood burning brick ovens to cook pizza and other dishes in, so tasty. Some interesting things we have tried so far. Jack had a pizza with cheese, dates, raisons, candied cherries, pineapple and banana, it was really good. We have tried a few kinds of fish, as mentioned in an earlier blog, Talapia a white fish from Lake Victoria, we also tried Chunga a large white fish, similar to Tuna. As well we have had fresh grilled Tuna, no comparison to a can that's for sure. Lots of different Indian dishes, spiced vegetables, rices, and so many flavourful sauces on things. A few neat sodas, like a very powerful ginger beer drink, a few exotic fruit fantas and some unique martinis. If the martinis have any juice in them, you watch it get fresh squeezed right in front of you.

We spent one day having lunch at a beachfront restuarant watching a large pod of dolphins go past. As well you can laze around during the day and watch the many Dhows as well as small fishing boats glide past. We went to a local Turtle conservation place. They have two types of endangered turtles, greenback and we will have to get the proper name of the other one. We got to put our hands in the water and feel the shells and the limbs and heads of the big ones, as well as hand feed them seaweed. They had small ones only a few months old. Those ones we picked up and were told they liked the back of the neck scratched, I don't think they really cared, lol! It also had a large fish in the water with incredible eyesight. The guy would throw a small piece of fish through the air and the fish would see it before it even hit the water darting to it with lightening speed and razor precision!

One thing we can't figure out here, when we shower you can't dry off??? You just stay wet and kind of sticky. Humidty, or something in the water, we don't know? The days generally consist of getting up, showering, only to get sweaty again within minutes. Breakfast, lounging around, etc. Lunch, more lounging, lol! Then we go back to our room to shower again and get ready for dinner. Dinner is a slow event, sunset watching, maybe some conversation with other travellers, etc. Then back to the room again, shower again, lol! Then you try to sleep, some nights are better than others depending on how hot the room is. It isn't uncommon to get up again in the night and have another cold shower!
Oh how I crave a facecloth, I have not come across one yet, I guess they just don't use them here, lol!

Other experiences in the Nungwi area include repeat music, I think they only have a few CD's here that are burnt and shared throughout the tourist areas. I don't know how many times we have listened to the same songs. Some popular music is the Backstreet boys, Bryan Adams, Shania Twain, Enrique, and Nsync. We have also heard lots of wonderful local music too.

We had the power go out for 20 hours while in Nungwi, and then had no water as well. It was just like camping.

We have seen many weird items used as motorcycle helmets here, if any are used at all. There seem to be a lot using one about 2 times too small for their head, lol! It just kind of sits squished on the top of the head. We have seen hard hats used and baseball helmets, I guess whatever they can find.

Most people we have seen on a single pedal bike so far (four!) What have we seen being transported on a pedal bike, how about what haven't we seen. Biggest item so far, a bed mattress!!!! LMAO! We have seen vehicles go by where you could hardly see the vehicle it had so much hay piled on it and around it. Of course all the typical bus stories, people hanging off the sides, back, roof, etc.

We learnt how to play a great African game called Bao (pronounced like the bow of a ship) A fold out board of wood, 16 holes on each side, and usually coffee beans used as pieces. Too much to write how to play, but one game can entertain you for hours.

Also before we forget, a great travel tip to mosquito areas. It's so common for the mosquito net provided in your room to be full of holes. We brought along clips for holding paper work together, but discovered they are great for pinching together the holes in the net. They are the small butterfly clips you get at stationary stores.

Funny things on info sheets provided at rooms we have stayed in. One place (and they are serious) "We do not hold responsibility if a coconut falls on your head"

This one totally baffles us! "Please keep the cocks closed in the bathroom" We are guessing they are talking about the taps??? Jack is still laughing about this one!

We have been eaten lunch and were visited in the restaurant by a rooster, and then a hen and her baby chicks. Attached to the back of the restaurant you could see into the owners home, where the chickens later strutted through! Numerous cats, kittens and dogs beg at tables sometimes.

Most money seen changing hands for one event. A taxi ride we got from Stonetown to the other side of the island. (about an hours drive) We got in the minivan with one driver and his sidekick in the passenger seat. We were asked to pay the passenger two thirds of the fare upfront. Then we stopped just down the road, the sidekick got out, gave someone waiting there some of the money, then the new guy got in, the old sidekick left. We then stopped again after a few minutes, this time at the new sidekicks house to get some supposide tourist paper work for taking us, he then gave a small amount of money to the driver with the papework. We finally arrived at our destination and payed the rest of the money owed to the driver. Things are so strange here!

We left Nungwi village after 3 nights and decided to try another village on the east coast of the island called Paje. Guess what, more white sand, more turquoise water, lol!
We met a very nice couple here, they are from Johannesburg in South Africa where we are headed to next. They have graciously offered us a night at their home, and to show us some of the interests in the area where they live. It's very comforting to have someone to show you around when you are travelling in a different place.



Most deeply affected moment so far here: Walking down the beach looking for a new place to stay. We were complaining about the place we were staying in our first night in Paje, it had no electricity in the room, you also had to keep a big bucket of water in the bathroom because apparently the water may stop while you are in the middle of a shower. We could see a group of 3 boys a ways down the beach, one was very low to the ground. As we got closer we saw his little legs were all but useless. He still manged to keep up with the other boys. He shuffled himself along the ground with his hands to play a game of soccer with them. He was as happy as could be, it was like he was oblivious to the fact his legs didn't work. There have been many other moments like this on the trip so far, and I am sure many more to come. After all is said and done I hope we can come away from our travels and just try to complain a little less about trivial things that come our way and remember how truly lucky we are. This is what travelling is all about.

We will be spending a few more days in Stonetown and have made plans to fly from Zanzibar via Dar el Salaam on the mainland of Tanzania through to Johannesburg in South Africa. There a whole new adventure will begin I'm sure.

Until then,
Take care everyone,
Audrey and Jack