Week 7: Machu Picchu and the Salkantay Mountain

Trip Start Mar 05, 2006
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Trip End Jul 27, 2006


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Monday, April 17, 2006

Hi Folks

Mucho Mucho Machu Picchu! Actually, let me first say that this is James writiting, and I lack much of the literary witiscisms of my counterpart.

Our 5 day 4 night trek to Machu Pichu is over, and let me tell you, it was freaking hard. We experienced about every climate known to man, save the desert (which we will see soon enough). After our preliminary meeting with the group and guides, Audrey and I were a little hesitant. There were 13 of us in total, and 10 were a group from San Diego. We were sadly mistaking. These San Diegans were some of the warmest, kindest people Audrey and I have met in a long time.

Our bus took the road from Cusco to Mollepata, had some breakfats, then begin the arduous, muddy road to the trail head of the Salkantay trail 01 - Lima at Night
01 - Lima at Night
. At numerous points, we had to disembark and push it through the muck. The scenery was green mountains on a scale I have Never seen before. Imagine Ashe County times 5. Eventually, we reached an unpassable mudslide, so our group starting treking... lets just say, a few miles earlier than anticipated. A little miscommunincation, four-wheeling, sunburn, thirst, and hours later, we arrived at the trailhead near sunset. We booked it to the campsite and chowed down on some awesome Peruvian cusisine. Its really good! Meanwhile the dominating Salkantay loomed over head.....

We had an early start the 2nd day due to yesterdays problems. The Salkantay greeted us when we awoke, along with Mate de Coca (Coca tea, a perfectly legal stimulant in Peru and source of the potent white drug.) Its supposedly helps with altitude, which we need as we hiked to 4550 m pass (15,000 ft). At that point, you are just gasping for air, Meanwhile, the Salkantay at 6271 m (20,500 ft!) looks down on us. This is a no manīs mountain, so large, so dangerous, no one has every suscessfully climbed it, though people die trying. After some traditional offerings to the Salkantay god (coca leaves, and rum ...one for me, one for my homey, mountain) we booked it to lower altitude. At this point, things start looking like Ireland, but bigger. Jamesīs knee started tighting as we descended several thousand feet non stop 02 - Skulls in Lima Cathedral
02 - Skulls in Lima Cathedral
. Soon we entered the cloud forest, a high elavtion rain forest. Very cool, but very moist, especially when the rain started. We made it to Colcapampa, our second campsite and grubbed down again, among magestic verdent moutains, think Hawaii.

After a later start, the 3rd day we continued descending, over class 5 rapids, waterfalls, and other treacherous obstacles. Very cool, We reached La Playa ( the beach) which is actually a village on a very, very ,very dangerous river. No beach at all. Jamesīs was feeling the knee at this point. Once again, great food, and this time beer! Who cares if its room temp, its beer! Fun,loquacious night with the group. But the rain came down.

The 4th day, we took a scare-the-poop-out-of-you bus ride to the next part of the trial, an inca trail dating back centuries. Have you ever driven over a waterfall? Oh yes, todo es posible en Peru, como Guatemala. This was a hard hike, straight up into the clouds with 100% humidity. Audrey was a trooper. The top was awesome though, it was like Dagobah (yoda land). Imagine the pacific northwest on steriods. Jungle, wet jungle. We then proceded to the an old inca ruin on a bald, where we could see mountians for miles, and when the clouds cleard, the backside of Machu Picchu!, several miles away as the crow flies 03 - Skulls and Femurs in San Francisco Monestary
03 - Skulls and Femurs in San Francisco Monestary
. As usual, then it was straight down. Oh blessed knee. Thanks to Roger for the knee brace and Loraina, Sheryl, Shannon and anyone I missed for use of the hiking poles. But it was well worth it, as we go to cross the scarriest food bridge ever, complete with loose boards, rotting boards, and missing boards. And we saw and awesome waterfall.

Okay, this is getting long, para phrase time. Booked it to Aguas Calientes for the night and caught the early bus to Machu Picchu. For those of you who donīt know Machu Picchu, it is the most famous archeological site in the americas, set on the top of a mountain ridge in a stunning setting. Lost for 400 years, this Incan king resort was rediscovered and is now inundated with tourists. But it doesnīt take away from its majesty. Amazing place, but get there early.

We booked it back to Cusco, said our goodbyes to new friends (shout outs to everyone) and made to Puno on Lake Titicaca near Bolivia yesterday. Tomorrow we go island hopping in the lake.
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Comments

walco530
walco530 on Apr 18, 2006 at 08:18PM

Hey guys
You two need to write a book some day about all this. It is fascinating just to read your descriptions of the scenery and the adventures. It sounds 'kinda' dangerous and I am sure there are things you are not telling that would really scare me. Stay safe. Have fun. This is all preparation for what you guys have to do later in life. We love and miss you.
Dad

forliberty
forliberty on Apr 24, 2006 at 01:59AM

Howdy!
Hey, Audrey and James, it was great to meet you guys! All the best on your continued travels.

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