Dakhla

  Dakhla Oasis, Egypt
Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Plan: Sunrise at the famous limestone formation in the White Desert (me, up at sunrise?!), Roman Temple of Deir el-Haggar, ancient tombs of Mezawaka and the Muslim village of el-Qasr.
Hotel: Bedouin Camp Ground


So as I mentioned, the plan changed and this wasn't the morning of the White Desert, but rather we woke up facing nothing but sand- it is a sensation that is absolutely impossible to explain. Unlike the White Desert, our camping locale was completely empty and isolated, and yet it wasn't frightening or disheartening but rather peaceful and lovely... It is a whole other world from the hussle and bussle of the big cities.

It's like when people come to Vancouver, and say they understand the mountains after seeing them, rather than driving or hiking through them to feel their... spirit, for lack of a better word. Egypt has so much to offer, but it is in the desert, away from the thousands of tour buses and cheap plastic pyramids that you feel more of a connection with the place as it should be enjoyed. I couldn't imagine coming back without enjoying the peace and serenity of the desert oasis.

Once, we were up, packed and had breaky... we drove straight across the piece of the Sand Sea that we faced. I don't know how Mohammed stays oriented when there are no landmarks, seemling nothing for which to follow... We did see many tire tracks, however, as the Egyption Rally race had travelled the same stretch a couple weeks (?) earlier.

Once we got back on the road, we stopped at a few more sites, two specifically, are worth mentioning...

First, we stopped by some tombs that are now closed to tourists, and yet we were given a tour by the local caretaker. The site itself was really creepy, similar to the Hill of the Dead, except no art and all the mummies, bones and debris were in tact. Peering through doors showed us row upon row of very decrepid bodies. Ben and I both felt like we were violating these poor remains. There was nothing to gain from their exhumation, and everything should have been resealed. It is no longer a tourist attraction (although I am not sure why it ever was for anyone other than the morbiddly curious) because a lot of chambers are collapsing and the whole place is considered unsafe. Great information to learn after the fact.

Tea and Dominoes

What made the visit noteable was the hospitality of the caretaker AFTER the tour. Based in such an isolated location, and seeing it is no longer a typical stop, it is clear that there are very few visitors. We were invited into a single room hut where the two caretakers lived. The benches doubled as seats and beds, there was one cabinet, and small table a kerosen "stove" and two posters on the wall. Bare doesn't begin to describe it, but more possessions would not have be able to take the place of the incredible amount of kindness we were shown. Offered tea, we were the only ones to sit on the benches while the others croutched around the table to play dominoes. You could tell by the smile on his face that he was thrilled to watch others interact. I did manage to get a picture, although I know it will only serve to remind me of the experience rather than assist to describe the situation.

Look Up

Finally, one of the, if not the coolest spots in the desert was a place called Al-Qasr. Inhabited until just a decade or two a go, the town is like walking through a movie set for an old 1920's Arab movie. Made of mud and wood and other natural products, the eco-friendly and beautifully engineered city was breathe taking. The minute you walked into the darken allyway you could feel a cool breeze, engineered by the layout to keep the citizens comfortable. We walked through the old mosque,and I couldn't get over the beauty of the door steps (which were actually above the door.) Carved of wood, size and detail a show of wealth, the Arabic calligraphy carvings were all quotes from the Koran. There were many things to see, and we took many pictures, but again, it was the soul of the place, the ability to really feel how it was to have lived in times past. Here, time has stopped, and the only thing that is constant is the movement and encroachment of the sand. 

-Ash