CUZCO
The navel of the Earth as it was so called by the famous Inca Empire, Cuzco still holds true to its grandeur today. An Inca chief stands high atop the city, reminding newcomers in whose footsteps they once treaded.
Climbing from the pretty Plaza de Armas through narrow streets of cobblestone to our hotel was probably the most difficult daily task due to the altitude and steepness, but finding quaint little cafes and trendy restaurants to while away the hours was nice and easy. We even spent our Canada Day at the Silhouette Spa, sauna-ing and jacuzzi-ing and getting infused by eucalyptus aromas, and ingesting large quantities of herbal teas. One evening, we went to a folkloric show with a live music ensemble, and colorful dances with themes of courtship, agricultural harvest, and llama hunting.
The Inti Raymi Festival and pride of all Cuzcenas, was the most colorful festival we have been to yet in all our travels. Dancers spinning in their matching outfits, showing off their twists and turns, waving their flags, and displaying their smiles in a grand parade that lasted the entire day and even went into the night. We found our way to the one plaza where paraders would gather after they finished their processions, to eat, drink, and be merry, or in other words, to get shit-faced drunk, and party hardy!
The Inti festival marked the start of the agricultural cycle, beginning with the Winter Solstice, and represents what the year will be like for the Inca Empire. The festival is begun with a beautiful military procession at Qoricancha (Golden Palace) and involves melodious flute playing, ceremonious marching, and a sincere request by the Inca King to the Sun God himself, to shine powerfully on his people. Surprisingly, the Sun seemed to cooperate at just the opportune moment, which created a roar of praise and happiness amongst the audience.
The afternoon of the Inti Raymi festival is celebrated with a reenactment of a play in which traditions of the Inca are acted out, involving fire ceremonies, sacrifices of a llama, a chicha (fermented alcohol) ceremony, and proclamations to the Sun to unite all 4 corners of the Inca empire. We found a spot on the crowded hillside, amidst all the locals eating their picnic lunches on their blankets. The crowd seemed militant about people standing up in front, to prevent others from getting a clear view of the play, and some in the back even started throwing rocks at people in front. Somehow, unlucky Reeshma got belted in the head by a stone, and subsequently Ashif ran back to defend his damsel in distress, by yelling "No Mas!". After the play, a few locals came over to apologize for their fellow countrymen's' overzealous behavior.
Cuzco is known for its cultural heritage, and we found the best example of this in its musical flare. After all the celebrations of Inti Raymi, on our way home, we stumbled across one such musical group, charged with energy, singing with such passion, and pride in their eyes for their Cuzco. The feeling was catchy, and a few of us gathered around to sway to the beat of the drums, and feel the wind of the pan flutes or "zamponias" flowing through our veins. A GOOSEBUMP moment that will forever be imprinted in our hearts.
NOTES FOR THE TRAVELLER:
- Hotel: San Blas Hotel Turistico, in a nice area of Cuzco, $30 USD was the cheapest we could find in high season, including private bath, heaters, and continental buffet breakfast.
- Transport: Taxi from Terminal to San Blas Area is 5 Soles.
- Restaurants: Granja Heidi is excellent for all meals, and serves FRESH milk! If you're looking for that western fix, Jack's Cafe will do the trick, but we felt it was slightly overrated.
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