Stop-Over in Europe!
Trip Start
Sep 15, 2008
1
43
122
Trip End
Jan 01, 2009
Buenos Aires,
Argentina
Sunday, December 14, 2008
It is hard to realize we were still in South America while hanging out in this amazing city where cafes, tango, polo fields, gorgeous plazas, international restaurants, and trendy Portenos (people of Buenos Aires - literally "Port People") dominate the landscape. Buenos Aires has very strong Italian and French influences after several influxes over the last few centuries. It is said by some, that Portenos are known for their arrogance. In addition, many believe that Buenos Aires belongs in Europe, not at the bottom of this third world continent. Regardless of the reputation we found the people very friendly and the city, this huge city of 13 milllion, great.
For accommodation we decided to stay in one of the more trendy areas of the city previously known as Palermo Alto, now known as Palermo Hollywood (changed due to the trend for movies to be filmed here and because some people think it sounds cool). Personally we think re-naming the area to Hollywood a bit weird but whatever. The hostel was basic but only 2 blocks from the Metro (which is called Subte here)and the price was right at 50% less than hostels the city centre.
After check-in we started our city experience at the centre, taking the Subte down to Plaza 25 de Mayo. This is the location of Madonna's famous speech on the balcony of the Presidential Palace(OK it was actually Eva Peron). From there we cruised the ridiculously busy Florida street, stopped by a few stores and one very high class mall before taking a break in one of the beautiful parks.
View from the Plane South
That night we were hunting for more steak, this time settling on a spot highly recommended by one of Arik's previous bosses who had visited the city a week prior. Luckily it was only a few blocks from our hostel, but as per Argentine standards our meal didn't start until 10:15. The steak was big, tender, and full of steaky flavour! Yum! Not as cheap as the Lonely Planet suggests, with 12-20% inflation a year, but still very cheap for international standards. Two BIG steaks, salad, potatoes, and a bottle of wine for $27.
Late mornings go with the late nights but after dragging ourselves from bed we visited more of the city centre including Café Tortoni (the "Cadillac of BA Cafes"), the congress building, and Av 9 de Mayo the Widest Avenue in the world at 16 lanes in the centre and four more on the outside. There was a huge protest, which appeared to be about healthcare and indigenous rights, among other things. We also pretended to be guests of the Panamericano Hotel to snap a view of the city from above. A staff member busted us in the act, but not before we snapped a great shot of the city that appears to go on forever.
In the evening we returned to Café Tortoni for our first Tango Show in their intimate downstairs theatre. The show was great. Surprisingly not as sexual as we expected, but cool none the less. There was a guy who hit balls on the stage in rhythm. That was awesome! However, the highlight of the night was meeting a really nice Brazilian couple who invited us to stay with them when we reach Rio. The husband loves to cook and they have a private beach!!!
The next morning we visited the Recoletta neighborhood, stopped by La Biele Café to rub shoulders with the cities elite (where food is 20% more if eaten on their stylish patio) and then walked among the dramatic Recoletta Cemetary where the rich and famous build monumental family tombs complete with visiting rooms and stone angles.
View from the Panamericano
That night we splurged on a steakhouse many consider the best of Buenos Aires. Our friend John from Scotland and one of his friends, Annabel, joined us. Again, massive steaks with amazing flavour were the main course but the the star of the night was Charis' apple pie which was out of this world. We finally escaped the restaurant at 12:45am (we are starting to feel like real Portenos with our late lifestyle) surprised to see that there was still a lineup outside for dinner!
Our last full day in town we went to a Polo Match but not just any polo match, it was the Argentinian Championship, who some consider is the best game in the world, in addition to an opportunity for the who's who of Buenos Aires to be seen (just like in Pretty Woman!). After sitting down in the stands, with the sharp dressed crowd, we realized we had absolutely no idea what the rules were or what was going on. A very friendly American with friends on one of the teams helped us through the rules and was great at explaining who the players were and how a Polo team operates for a game. Amazingly each player will have up to 16 horses for a competitive match, so each team will need around 70 horses (and these aren't donkeys or simple trail horses). The game was close and in sudden-death overtime the underdog team, Ellerstina, seized the championship from a Polo dynasty, Dolphina.
Buenos Aires is a beautiful city and would be a great place to live, or even to stay longer to enjoy its unique culture and first world amenities...however, we have a plane ticket outta here to see penguins at the end of the world in Ushuaia, Patagonia.
