Tehran Traffic - Navigating the Chaos

Trip Start Jan 08, 2005

Trip End Feb 12, 2005

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Flag of Iran Tehran, Iran
Tuesday, January 25, 2005

I think anyone travelling outside North America has been amazed by the traffic in many other countries. And in this respect, Tehran is no different. However, after being in Lima, Beijing and even Almaty, I was still awestruck and nervous about navigating the streets of Tehran.

Drivers are incredibly in tune with their vehicles, like they are all one. I have seen them weave in and out of traffic at high speeds, missing other cars by mere inches. Once stuck in bumper to bumper traffic we wanted to leave a cab to walk (it was faster than waiting in the traffic jam) and I couldn't open my door enough to squeeze out. Without a second thought, the driver put his cab in reverse, inched back (literally) and then moved a few inches forward into the oncoming lane (also at a standstill) so I could open my door enough so we could get out.

This then brings me to the topic of traffic lanes

01 - Traffic in Tehran

. Although incoming and outgoing traffic lanes are clearly marked, if there is room, and even if there is not, cars will pass each other by going into the opposite direction traffic lane. If there are any oncoming cars, they will of course blow their horn but swerve enough to avoid a collision. Riding the transit bus, I have seen a 4-lane road (2 in either direction) suddenly have 3 lanes all going in one direction. It seems like the motto is "if there is space, use it."

Traffic here brings a whole new meaning to aggressive drivers and defensive driving. Drivers in Tehran are not only extremely aggressive but also unbelievable defensive....how that is possible, I'm not sure. And get this, drivers are also supposed to wear their seatbelts (but only passengers in the front) and I have even seen road stops to check and enforce this law!

For pedestrians, each street crossing is a life or death experience. No matter how fast vehicles are going, people (including mothers with small children in tow)will step, lane by lane, across a road or highway. Standing on the lane lines, one has to make a decisive decision to step forward and if so, drivers may even slow down....a little. In many ways, pedestrians and vehicles are equivalent as neither really wants to hit (or be hit) by the other

02- Rush Hour Traffic

. I guess the bureaucracy of filing a traffic accident report or dealing with a death is a real headache!

The process of hailing a shared taxi is also quite unique. These numerous cars slow down anywhere along the road they see people standing and honk their horn. If the person is looking for a cab, they will shout the name of the general area they want and if it is on the taxis route, he will stop. Otherwise, he continues on and other taxis quickly replace him. So it is nice that one does not actually have to hail the taxi. But what really amazed me is that the drivers are able to hear what people say given the traffic noise and the fact that the passenger side windows are shut....it is winter after all (low of maybe 8 degrees).

And then there are the motorcycles. These crazy folk weave randomly through the cars whenever there is room to squeeze through. And if there is not, it is quite typical to have a motorcycle screaming down the pedestrian sidewalk. This is a major concern and especially so after my friend told me she knew a lady who was killed by a motorcyclist on the sidewalk. It is indeed true that manouvering the traffic in Tehran is a life or death experience.