Before heading off mainland Fiji again, we spent two nights in Lautoka. This is the sugar production capital and the second largest city, but is much less visited by tourists than Nadi or Suva. We enjoyed shopping and eating cheaply, where the Fijians do. We also went to the cinema and were treated to some excellent tacky advertising for the local services.
Our main reason for coming here was to access the highlands of the Koroyanitu National Heritage Park. We set off late after the 4WD taxi booked for us by the hotel didn't turn up, surprise, surprise. We eventually got a vehicle and travelled for miles along a bumpy off-road track (quite an ordeal with a sunburned bottom *Angie) into a small village, Abaca. The residents are the keepers of the area and we had to sign the massive guestbook (we were the only visitors that day) and pay our entry into the park. We trekked up to a waterfall through rainforest that felt quite wild and alive with creepy crawlies. We had to take it in turns to be the leader who had the unenviable job of spider web breaker. The path was quite rough and slippery and at one point went right through the huge roots of a tree. Just as we reached the waterfall fat drops of rain started to splash down and got heavier and heavier. As it had been boiling hot when we left we hadn't brought any waterproofs so got thoroughly soaked. We eventually found an overhanging rock to shelter under and ate our packed lunch feeling rather miserable - well Darren did anyway - Angie was trying to keep upbeat as this was all her idea.
In retrospect we should have thought 'what would Ray do?' (Ray Mears of course) and put some large banana tree leaves into use as umbrellas or built a shelter or something, but instead we just got wetter and colder by the minute. The rain subsided temporarily as we emerged from the forest and started down the other side of the valley. There were lovely views back to the waterfall that looked far more impressive from afar, as we couldn't see the whole height of it when up close. Soon it started to rain again, and this time it didn't stop. We had to ford a river and looked down a lush deep gorge over another waterfall before scampering back to the taxi, dripping wet. We climbed in the canvas covered back of the truck and dried off with towels we had brought along for swimming in the waterfall pools - ha! Still, it was nice to see the flip side of the beaches and palm trees Fiji.
In the Lautoka hotel we bumped into our stalker again. We had lost him at the last island when he couldn't get a space at the same resort, but here he was. He seemed to have given up on Fiji and was cutting his month stay short after only 10 days. He was flying on to Hawaii where he was sure he'd get bored too.
The next day we completed our circuit of the mainland and set off to the Yasawas from Nadi. The Yasawas are a beautiful rugged chain of islands off the west coast of Fiji. We had 6 days here so decided to island hop to 3 different resorts. Transport was by a plush air-conditioned bright yellow catamaran, which was very luxurious compared to little boats that we had to clamber into for transfers to resorts.
Our first stop was the island of Wayalailai and a nice resort run by the local villagers with an open air eating area that looked out over the bay. The village's chief had died a few days before we arrived so evening entertainment was rather more subdued than it might have been but they still managed a kava ceremony.
We took a boat over to the neighboring island Kuata and spent an afternoon snorkelling. The water off the beach here was as hot as a bath. We had heard this said about tropical waters and thought it was an exaggeration, but no - in the shallower areas it really was almost too hot to walk in.
On Wayalailai we made friends with Poppy, a dog with distended breasts who had produced 6 puppies the week before. She had chosen to give birth under the decking of the dining area, which was at the top of a steep hill. Several times a day one of the pups would roll down the hill, lie squealing at the bottom, and have to be rescued by someone. She seemed totally blasé about her pups and we didn't see her with them once. Poppy accompanied us on a guided hike we took to the top of the majestic cliffs that towered 1000ft above the resort. Our guide who was an extremely athletic elder from the village showed us the garden where they grow pineapples, bananas, root crops and mangoes (the latter on trees planted by his mother 100 years previously) and took us to peer right over the precipice of the cliff giving us birds eye view of our resort and the island chain. On the way down we detoured to Wobbling Rock (see photo) - a giant boulder that rocks unnervingly when given a few hefty shoves. On the way down we ate nuts and loads of a delicious sweet perfumed fruit with a silky white flesh - Angie found maggots in her piece but it was so nice she ate around them until they tickled her fingers too much and she had to admit defeat!
Our next stop was Naviti. The resort here was the most upmarket yet (by backpacker standards), with a swimming pool and sun loungers. Darren took the opportunity to participate in some serious relaxerisation. We joined a snorkelling tour that took us around the island and saw lots of flying fish fleeing from the path of our boat like stones skimming over the surface of the water. Our first snorkelling stop was a WWII plane wreck where we could see the remains of a small fighter plane 5m down. It was teeming with fish and had a massive sea urchin in what was the pilot's seat. Then the boat dropped us at a coral garden and for half an hour we swam along the edge of the drop marvelling at the abundant coral (with splashes of bright yellow, orange, purple, blue and green) and lots more fish. We had originally come to this island to swim with Manta Rays at this site. However, it wasn't the season. Shame. Manta Rays can reach 3-4m across.
Generally, food had been pretty good in Fiji, but this resort won the prize for the most unimaginative, unappetising vegetarian option yet (stealing the title from the previous gold medal holders, Air Pacific, who served us a tinned-mushroom sandwich for breakfast during our flight). The meat eaters were served chicken. We got cucumber. We refused to eat it in protest and Angie made a sad face picture on her plate with the slices!
Our last resort was 'Long Beach' on the island of Matacawalevu. The place was pretty basic as Darren found out when trying to have a shower to wash off the salt after swimming. He couldn't work out why the soap wasn't lathering up, and then realised - it was a seawater shower! There were also a lot of crabs, mice, lizards, cats, dogs and flies. But who's complaining - we slept in a lovely traditional bure and there were only a handful of guests to share the huge beach with - the nicest we had been on so far. On the first night our food was cooked in a traditional earth oven called a Lovo and we had another kava ceremony but this time next to a bonfire on the beach. Angie entertained the guests and staff with her night Poi. The following day we went out in a boat to a reef drop, which was spectacular. From shallow water the reef falls off in 30ft high walls of coral to the deep blue ocean beyond, and we were surrounded by thousands of tiny silvery fish as we swam. The snorkelling off the beach was pretty good too - Darren saw a puffer fish - but despite many attempts we didn't spot the elusive stingray that everyone else seemed to be seeing.
We'd heard from other guests that tea and carrot cake was served at one of the small-holdings further down the beach and after working up an appetite, we set off for a slice of the action. However, on arrival we were told the gas had run out so there was no cake today. Instead we were served cream-crackers sandwiched together with butter. We politely forced a couple down, feeling very cheated! We did get to meet their lovely kids and dogs though. In the evening we went on another guided trek to the top of neighboring 'Goat Island' for a view over the area and our resort. We could see the luxury Turtle Island resort and Blue Lagoon beach in the distance, and watched the sun set over the Pacific Ocean. We didn't see any goats though. That night the stars were out in their millions and we swam again, this time with starlight twinkling off the water.
We returned to Nadi for our last night. We were meant to get a free bus transfer to our backpackers, but due to being told to get on the wrong bus by the driver, ended up speeding in the opposite direction to it. This latest piece of Fijian misdirection (which was accompanied when we confronted the driver by a laugh and a 'don't worry') was the final straw for Darren and he finally snapped, giving the driver a piece of his sun-baked mind. We resorted to a taxi and arrived at our super-budget choice. No internet access, restaurant or free airport drop off as promised on their flyer, but only 6 quid a night for a double room complete with pet cockroaches. Bargain.
Early the next morning we flew out of Fiji feeling relaxed, tanned and privileged, but having totally overdosed on beach life so looking forward to a bit of city living in Sydney.
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