Start of our 45-day tour
Trip Start
Aug 16, 2005
1
12
63
Trip End
Apr 14, 2006
Ilha Grande and Paraty,
Brazil
Wednesday, September 21, 2005
We continued southwards down the coast to Ilha Grande - a big island (really?!) where there are no cars, 1 small village (which we stayed in) and a couple of hamlets
Bamboo
. Apart from that, there are 102 beaches and the rest is uninterrupted rain forest. The island owes itīs relatively pristine state due to the fact that its history has been associated with the forces of evil - it was a pirateīs lair, a leper colony and then a high security prison housing the most deranged criminals Brazil had to offer. Now it is a popular holiday destination for rich Cariocaīs and deranged backpackers!We arrived on the island by ferry in late afternoon and our tour guide asked if anyone wanted to go kayaking in the bay before dinner. I (Darren) decided that I should face the fear and erase the memory of my snorkelling nightmare. Although the water was dead calm I decided to take the option of a (movement restricting) lifejacket, just in case! My kayak was very small, alarmingly unstable and veered to the left and right as I paddled which made it hard (and slightly unnerving) work. We paddled out along the shore to a quiet, secluded bay, where we could hear tropical birds and monkeys, which made it worthwhile. On the way back it started to get dark and the town looked very nice twinkling in the distance. After managing to stay dry for the whole time, my only concern now was how I would get out of the kayak. Needless to say I rolled ungainly out 5 feet from the shore and got soaked from the waist down, oh well you canīt win īem all!
The next morning our tour guide had the bright idea of taking us on a trek to the highest point of the island (called parrotīs peak because it is a beak-like overhanging rock rising above the forest) very early (6am start) so that we could catch the midday boat to a great beach on the other side of the island, and therefore do 2 activities in one day. Of course by the time we got back to the hotel after the exhaustingly steep 5 hour climb we all collapsed and no-one went to the beach anyway
Butterflies
. The best laid plans... However, the trek was pretty good - we climbed through dense jungle where we saw a huge spider whose web we had to duck under the get along the path and heard howler monkeys in the distance which are angry sounding beasts but only about 2 feet high, all mouth and no trousers! When we finally got to the peak at 950m however, rather than the splendid view over the island we had been promised, we had white swirling cloud. It did part briefly to allow us to see down into the forest and to one of the beaches, but it was frustrating that the peak was clear when we started the walk and when we finished it, but not when we were at the top. On our second day we took a schooner trip with lots of other backpackers to a beach and a snorkelling spot. Although the open sea was pretty choppy we didnīt feel nearly as bad as our previous boat-ride because of the fortunate fact that as many caiprihinas as you wanted were included in the price. Amazing how a few drinks can make being soaked by the spray and thrown around a rickety boat good fun!
After Ilha Grande we took a local bus continuing southwards. The bus trip was meant to take 2 hours but actually took 3 as we were held up in a huge traffic jam by a local protest that blocked the road - it was certainly an effective way to get their message across. We arrived in Paraty, a charming colonial town with lots of churches and very uneven cobbled streets that weīre sure have caused their fair share of twisted ankles. As the weather continues to be very rainy, we choose not to do a trip around the dozens of islands and beaches along the coast here, and borrowed bicycles to visit a local butterfly house type thing (essentially some netting covering a landscaped area with butterflies flapping about, some bigger than your hand) and the old ruined fort
cheers
. The accomodation on our organised tour has been lovely so far - we are currently in a hotel with a steam room, swimming pool and free internet access. Donīt think it will continue in this vein all the way though - we have some nights in hammocks coming up during a wildlife tour and rather more overnight buses than we expected! Itīs great to not have to worry about which bus to catch and where we will be staying though - and that seems to outweigh any difficulties of having to be part of a group. Itīs been pretty flexible so far though and we can choose to eat with the group or not, and to do the optional excursions for that day or not.
I (Angie) should mention that the Brazilians have a LOT of trouble with Darrenīs name. Angela is a Brazilian name so I am fine, but Portugese has lots of odd pronounciation: Rs are pronounced as Hs (I donīt think they have double Rs) and Ds are said like Js. Try saying Darren now and youīll have some idea of the struggles we witness!
We have now left the Brazilian coast (which we have been following for the last 5 weeks) and are headed inland across the continent. We picked up another overnight bus in Sao Paulo (which, did you know, is the 2nd most populous city in the world - 17 millionish) that was the most luxurious yet - normal coach width but only 3 plush chairs in each row, rather than the 4, seperated by the aisle, that youīd usually expect.
We are heading to see the bestest waterfall in the world ever (part 2) - Igaussu Falls - and Angie is having kittens!
Comments
Hello!
Well hello Angie and Jahen!
I too am loving hearing all of your accounts...particular highlights have been Angie's unfortunate adventures at the water park and the photos of the two of you in various amusing poses. While didier thinks I'm working on my thesis etc...I'm whiling away the time imagining I'm with the two of you, however I frequetly give myself away when I burst out laughing at something you've written...woops. Keep all the entries coming. Lots of love, Celia xxxx