We survived!!! 72 Km walked in 3 days, and we're still walking, well hobbling in Andy's case, but the blisters are healing. But back to the beginning, and we'd returned our motorbike in Christchurch. The following day we were collected from our motel to collect our hire car for the next few days. When you have a one way rental from Christchurch to Auckland, they give you different cars on the South and North Island, so that you don't have to pay the ferry fare for the car. With the company we used it also meant we didn't have to pay for a car while we walked for 3 days, and while we explore the Capital city - Wellington. We still get the long term rate, $25 a day (less than ?0 pounds).
After picking up our rental car, we drove across the country to Greymouth, more or less following the route of the TranzAlpine train we took a few weeks ago. After stopping in Sheffield for a photograph next to the town sign (Andy was born in Sheffield, England), we followed Arthur's Pass through the spectacular Southern Alps. At one point we passed a fire engine dealing with a wrecked car about 40 metres below in the ravine, but we didn't stop to find out what had happened.
Greymouth was the venue for our cave rafting trip, which we had imagined to be sitting in our raft (an inflated inner tube) while the river meandered through a cave. It turned out to be a pot-holing expedition, with 10 minutes of lying in our inner-tubes while viewing glow worms in the cave roof. Although it wasn't what we'd expected, and it got a bit worrying when squeezing through some of the gaps, it was actually a great trip. Especially when afterwards we were taken back to relax in their spa while drinking a glass of wine and munching on a muffin.
We still had time in the afternoon to drive up to Punakaika to see the blow-holes and "pancake rocks" there. These were strange formations of coastal rocks and cliffs, which have somehow formed in layers, giving the impression of huge stacks of pancakes. They didn't sound much, but were very interesting, especially as a couple of dolphins swam past.
On our way from Greymouth to the Abel Tasman, we stopped off at Buller gorge to see the swing bridge, and while we were there decided to try our hand panning for gold. Big mistake. The gold panning itself was quite fun, but for every minute fleck of gold dust we found, we collected several sand fly bites. Somehow these bites managed to itch for days, and even now a week later, we still look like we've got the plague or something.
We had a couple of days in Abel Tasman, so on day one we decided to walk part of the famous Abel Tasman track, partly to prepare us for our expedition on the Queen Charlotte. We took a water taxi (a jet boat) to Torrent Bay, and walked to Awaroa Lodge for a coffee. It was a nice walk with views of some pretty bays and coves, but you have to plan it around the tides, as parts of it cross beaches and inlets that you can't cross at high tide. We still had to get our feet wet to cross one of the tidal rivers. Another water taxi took us back to Manahau. Incidentally, the start/finish point in Manahau doesn't have much of a jetty, as it is a flattish beach, which can go a long way out at low tide, so a tractor delivers and collects the boats and we sat in the boat while it was towed. I can't imagine a company being allowed to do that in Western Europe.
The next day, we had booked a seal swimming trip, and after getting kitted out, we set off in a boat with our guide - "John the Walrus" to Tonga Island. We weren't allowed to go nearer than 10 metres to the island where they breed, but after waiting for a while, they eventually came out to swim and play with us, swimming around and under us. At one point a sting ray swam under the group, but Andy missed it. He did watch a crab eating a mussel though. The dolphin and seal swims aren't cheap, but they have been definite highlights on this trip.
In the afternoon, we went out to sea again in a kayak, and nearly managed to capsize it when we pulled up onto one of the beaches. Fortunately we'd been provided with a pump to empty out the water.
On Sunday we drove the scenic route to Picton, to prepare for 'The walk'. We checked into a really nice B&B (Palm Haven - recommended!), had a nice meal in town and stocked up on supplies (Pasta, baked beans etc), ready for the challenge ahead. In the morning we returned the hire car, and met the water taxi to take us to our start point. This service is excellent. They (Endeavour Express) take you to Ships Cove, collect you at the end from Anakiwa, and each day they deliver your packs to the next destination, so that we only had to carry day packs with water, lunch, and wet weather gear. We didn't hear of any luggage going astray, and they were bang on time to collect us at the end.
The first day's walking is the longest, at 27 Km, but along a very well prepared track. We soon decided that in our opinion, this track had more to recommend it than Abel Tasman, as the views across the Sounds are stunning. There are also more accommodation and eating options en route, and Jo and I stayed in a couple of home-stays, where homeowners give you a room, and open their homes for your use.
Very soon we had made friends with a couple of single German walkers - Alex and Simone, and we ended up walking most of the whole track with them, until Alex detoured to a lodge he'd had recommended - Lochmara.
Our first night's stay was at Noeline's. Some time after her husband died 8 years ago, she started offering accommodation, and the night we were there she had exceeded her normal quota of 5 people to allow a group of 4 Dutch walkers to stay. This meant she had to sleep on the floor in the lounge, and she's 73 next week. She is a great lady, and when Alex and Simone arrived the next morning, she came out in her nightie and gum boots to show us the first part of the way back to the track, and gave us a big goodbye hug.
The second day, although shorter, was much harder work. The storm that had raged through the night, was almost over when we started, but the wind was still strong, and some of the climbs seemed a lot harder than the first day. Alex and Andy took a short detour to a high look-out, but because they were rushing up the hill to get back to join the others, they nearly did themselves in. Well Andy did anyway, but then Alex was a lot younger and fitter. Day 3 was fortunately the shortest and easiest, and we arrived in Anakiwa in time for a coffee at the cafe before the boat arrived.
We checked back into the B&B, and then it was back to the Barn Cafe again for a nice meal, this time as our reward.
We've now arrived in Wellington after a very smooth crossing, and are staying in a very nice motel just outside the centre. We haven't decided where we're going from here, but we have 3 weeks to discover the North Island, so until next time from ????
10 votes 
