When we left Antigua it was boiling hot with the blazing sun beating down on us from a clear blue sky, but by the time our minibus arrived in Panajachel, about three hours later, the cloud had descended so much that we could barely see ten feet in front of us. We checked into our hotel, the Posada de Los Volcanes, just as the rain was beginning to lash down. Then having donned our rain jackets, we ventured down to the shore of Lake Atitlan and had a late lunch at the Sunset Restaurant. At this stage we had no idea of the view that we were missing out across the lake, due to the inclement weather, and the water lapping the small beach in front of us looked as if it belonged to a vast, choppy sea.
We made the most of having a really good, comfortable room that evening and listened to the rain pour down as we watched a few films.
When we got up the next morning, the main street of Panajachel had been transformed from looking fairly drab and dingy the previous afternoon to a vibrant, colourful thoroughfare lined by market stalls selling all sorts of touristy garb - it's amazing what a difference a bright, sunny day makes! After a substantial breakfast (I'm becoming addicted to pancakes and maple syrup!), we walked out of the village and back up the hill that we had descended yesterday in the bus. This time we were able to appreciate the spectacular view right across the lake to the three volcanoes rising majestically from the opposite shore.
Once we reached the Atitlan Natural Reserve, we followed a trail through the jungle which incorporated several suspension bridges. During our walk we came across some spider monkeys playfully swinging through the trees. From a distance, when you can simply see their outline, they do indeed resemble giant spiders. We also saw some really cute little furry animals with long, pointed noses called 'coatis' which are related to racoons. Dan managed to get a great video clip of one of them who came right up to him and inquisitively sniffed around him.
Tearing ourselves away from the coatis, we continued our walk on the nature trail which led us on a climb up the side of a waterfall. Although it was very pretty, we were both suffering in the heat and were very relieved when the path evened out and finally led us back down the steep hill. After a bottle of water each to replenish some of the fluids that we'd lost, we made our way to the butterfly sanctuary.
Whilst we enjoyed looking at some of the interesting flowers and plants within the enclosure, we were pretty disappointed to discover that there was a distinct lack of butterflies - that we could see anyway! What we did spot, however, was a large (and pretty mean looking) eagle which had somehow managed to get inside the netted area. Although he sat quitely while we took photos, we were both a little concerned that he wasn't tethered. Once I'd clocked the size of his sharp talons and seen the beady look in his eyes, I made a fairly swift beeline for the exit (still a little traumatised from my magpie attack in NZ!!)
Before returning to the village, we wandered down to a small beach area by the lake and chilled out on the rocks for a while. After another late lunch back in Panajachel, Dan went back to the room while I had a good look around the numerous market stalls for a new bag. Eventually I chose one and paid just two pounds sterling for it - I should not have been at all surprised then when just a few hours later, the one and only fastening on it broke - so much for my bargain!
As the weather was much better, we decided to go back to the Sunset Restaurant where we claimed one of the few empty tables left with a great view over the lake. Over a few drinks, we then proceeded to watch a beautiful sunset - simply stunning with volcanoes San Pedro, Toliman and Atitlan rising skywards across the water.
The following morning, after another pancake-laden breakfast, we walked round the lake for about an hour until we reached a lovely, secluded spot. I decided to go for a paddle whereupon I promptly sank up to my knees in soft, squelchy mud (I told you I'd eaten too many pancakes!) Dan had to come and rescue me and it took ages before I finally managed to retrieve my lost flip flop.
Shortly after we'd settled down to some serious sunbathing, the silence was shattered by a group of French tourists who informed us that they were going to go skinny dipping. Once they'd left, I decided to follow their lead as I was so hot. Suitably refreshed after a lovely cool dip, we made our way back to the village and ate once more at the Sunset Restaurant (we could never get fed up with drinking in this view).
Both of us really enjoyed our few days at Panajachel where we felt that we were really on holiday as opposed to simply travelling.
Andrea and Dan
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