Oaxaca - Guelaguetza and Mezcal
Trip Start
Aug 16, 2003
1
64
92
Trip End
Apr 21, 2004
Oaxaca,
Mexico
Wednesday, February 11, 2004
Our journey here was not the most pleasant of trips as we took the first bus available from Puebla to spare us a three hour wait. Unfortunately, this meant getting on board a 2nd class vehicle, that although displayed a sign promising air conditioning, sadly lacked the essential cooling equipment. The consequence was that we were roasted in extremely stuffy conditions, with all the anticipated sounds and smells of a bus load of hot and bothered '2nd class locals' for four and a half hours - nice
A Friendly Local Took This One
!When we arrived at the 2nd class bus terminal (much further away from the city centre than the 1st class equivalent, of course), one of our fellow passengers pointed us in the right direction and kindly ushered us into a taxi. The ride in actually happened to be one of those extremely rare occasions where we were not terrified and the windscreen of the cab did not have a spider's web of cracks obscuring the driver's view.
The Hotel Antonio's turned out to be more expensive than we had imagined, but still within our budget and in fact, a lovely building with a brightly coloured courtyard, complete with fountain centrepiece.
Once again, we were desperate to have some clean clothes and made straight for the nearest 'lavanderia' to deposit our odorous garments. Whilst awaiting the transformation of our clothes from offensive to fresh, we caught up with friends etc in an Internet cafe nearby. Andrea remained there longer (updating the travelogue) whilst I returned to our room, enthusiastic to continue reading my Robert Ludlum book, in which I had become thoroughly absorbed (this was my first Ludlum - The Janson Directive - and I have to say that I may now be a convert to the genre)
After Mezcal
.Another lengthy and enjoyable breakfast ensued, before we surveyed the zocalo and began wandering to attractions further afield. Just past the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, and on the way to the obsolete aqueduct, we were drawn into a picturesque courtyard that housed an 'artensania' or handicrafts market. We spent some time admiring the variety of locally produced objects before Andrea bought herself a small, intricately patterned cloth bag. I was quite taken by a large stone sculpture depicting the Gods of Fertility, but thought the impressive protuberance on the piece might prove to be cumbersome in my hand-luggage!
Our unguided and random tour round the city was enjoyable yet uncomfortable at times due to the searing heat of the sun. It was markedly warmer here (especially in the evenings) than in the previous cities we had visited, being 1000m closer to sea level and that bit closer to the Equator, we imagined. Seeking respite from the early afternoon temperature and a rest from our rambling, we sat under a parasol on a cafe terrace back in the zocalo, where I enjoyed a mug of refreshing beer with our lunch. We had a couple more 'cervezas' on a shady bench by the zocalo's bandstand before returning to our hotel, armed with a very small bottle of the locally produced Mezcal. We made our way up to the rooftop garden, which we were lucky enough to have to ourselves, and, slathered in sun cream, sat back and relaxed. It didn't take long for me to want to crack open the Mezcal - a brandy-type cousin of tequila, made from the same 'maguey plant'. Andrea really enjoyed her measure, as you will no doubt be able to tell from the accompanying photo!
Suitably adjusting to the Mexican lifestyle, we took a late afternoon siesta before venturing out for an evening of Guelaguetza entertainment
An Artesanias Market Courtyard
. We were unfortunately visiting Oaxaca at the wrong time for the actual festival of dance, but were assured we would be witnessing the next best thing. When we arrived at the venue, we felt a little disconcerted by the fact that we were the only ones there. I had anticipated some amount of audience participation, but had expected it to be shared around a much bigger crowd. No amount of Mezcal would prepare me to be dragged on stage for the duration!Thankfully, a party of just over a dozen French tourists arrived, shortly followed by a separate family of three - my odds of surviving had just increased! That evidently turned out to be the sum of the audience, which was a real shame for the fantastic dancers, who took us through an amazingly colourful routine of regional dances. Andrea was in her element, and I happily looked on. Until it was our turn to join in.
We were both gently 'persuaded' to partner up with a dancer of the opposite sex and perform The Ejuteco Dance, somewhat poetically, I thought, related to the celebration of home-made Mezcal! I was fine at the stomping part, but was seriously out of my depth with anything that required finesse, or in fact, co-ordination and rhythm. With my eyes searching pleadingly around the room, an overwhelming sense of gratitude filled my entire being as the music stopped and we were led back to our table.
It was an eventful and entertaining end to the day, and well worth visiting the city for.
Dan and Andrea
