Teotihuacan - Pyramids and Ruins
Trip Start
Aug 16, 2003
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62
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Trip End
Apr 21, 2004
Teotihuacan,
Mexico
Monday, February 9, 2004
We had a meal in town and then came back and watched Mexico v Costa Rica in the Olympic prelims of CONCACAF - well Dan watched it, I fell asleep well before full time!
The following morning, feeling very full after a hearty breakfast at our hotel, we decided to walk the 3km or so down the road to the ruins of Teotihuacan. The site of the huge Piramides del Sol y de la Luna (the sun and moon) was Mexico's biggest ancient city. It was developed around the early part of the 1st century AD and eventually collapsed in the 7th century AD
An Ornate Pillar
.Although ancient Teotihuacan used to cover more than 20 sq km, most of what there is to see today lies along the 2km stretch of the Calzada de los Muertos (Avenue of the Dead). It was the first time that either Dan or I had experienced any such site and we were both struck by the magnitude of the city and by the mildly mystical atmosphere surrounding it. Both the pyramids commanded a very strong presence and were quite a sight to behold.
Our first mission of the day was to climb the 70m high Piramide del Sol, which is the world's 3rd largest pyramid (and believe me it certainly felt like it by the time we'd staggered to the top!) Nevertheless, we were rewarded with spectacular views in all directions and were able to get a good feel for the remainder of the city's layout.
Our exploration of the many ruins continued for the next few hours as the sun got hotter and hotter and the hawkers (selling all manner of tourist tat) became more and more persistent. It was a welcome relief from the sun to have a wander round the cool museum. Housing an array of artifacts and fresco panels, and thankfully explanations in English as well as Spanish, it provided an interesting interlude.
Next stop was La Ciudadela (the Citadel) - a large square complex which is believed to have been the residence of Teotihucan's supreme ruler. Surrounded by four wide walls topped with 15 pyramids, this was another very imposing site. Located within the complex is the Templo de Quetzalcoatl (don't ask me to attempt the pronunciation!) We were able to see the four surviving steps of the temple which are encrusted with striking carvings depicting a sharp-fanged serpent deity
Atop The Pyramid of the Sun
.By this time we were both flagging in the heat and decided we needed some sustenance. Our chosen venue was Restaurant La Gruta which serves meals in a cool, wide-mouthed, natural cave. It was like walking into a fairytale as we descended into the cavernous space below, beautifully equipped with bright and incredibly colourful furniture and tablecloths, complete with hundreds of candles lining the cave walls. (Ailsa - please note that I haven't even mentioned the food!)
After our late lunch, we set of for the Piramide de la Luna with renewed vigor and managed to climb to the top without too much trouble. The view straight down the Calzada de los Muertos was impressive, so too the Plaza de la Luna situated directly in front of the pyramid and comprising a handsome arrangement of 12 temple platforms. Finally we had a look around the remains of a number of palaces complete with murals and carvings - a mixture of originals and restorations.
Both pretty shattered after a long day in the formidable heat, we decided, for the first time in as long as I can remember, not to go out for a meal. I never thought I would ever get sick of eating in restaurants, but it was a refreshing change not to bother!
Andrea and Dan
