About 15 minutes down the road from Franz Josef, the clouds cleared and the remainder of the journey to Hamner Springs was completed in glorious sunshine. As usual, we paused at a number of scenic spots along the road for photos. A few swift stops were also made to accomodate Dan's attempts to get a shot of the camera-shy Karearea - unfortunately though all efforts were once again in vain.
Our one and only scheduled stop during the trip was thanks to a suggestion made by the manager of the Lake Tekapo YHA who gave Dan a couple of ideas about places to visit that are slightly off the beaten track. Following his directions we pulled off the main road and followed a track down beside a pretty river. Parking the car, we followed the river on foot until we came across our destination - five or six hot pools situated right next to the cool flowing river. With rolling green hills and snow-capped mountains as a back-drop, the setting was nothing short of idyllic and what's more we had the place completely to ourselves.
Wasting no time in getting into our swimmers we grabbed a couple of beers from the boot of the car (funnily enough it seems that there is always a healthy stock) and relaxed in our own private health farm. It felt really good to heat up in the pools and then plunge into the icy cold river. Just as we were beginning to think that this was our paradise, it quickly dawned on us why we were the sole occupants...sandflies! Hundreds of the little buggers descended on us and persistently bit us to pieces. It must have looked comical to an outsider as we struggled to change back out of our swimmers while hopping up and down trying to swat the twenty or so flies that clung on to your skin at any one time. In the end we had to run back to the car for cover, towels wrapped around our heads to protect us. It was one of the most unpleasant things I've ever encountered. So much for our paradise!
We arrived at Hamner Springs late in the afternoon and had a wander around the sleepy little village in which the main attraction is the Thermal Reserve which contains a collection of swimming and hot pools, sauna, steam room and therapy rooms. We both decided to treat ourselves to a massage and booked in for the next afternoon. After a pub meal we relaxed infront of the tv at the hostel, which was much quiter than most the YHAs and felt more like a motel.
When I went to the bathroom the next morning, I got a huge shock when I looked in the mirror and discovered that I was covered, from head to toe, in ugly red bites. The only part of my body that remained bite-free were the bits covered by my swimsuit, with the result that I looked like I had a severe case of chicken-pox. Dan too had about 100 bites all over him and we reckoned that I had about three times as many! We do have photographic evidence, however we don't want to put you off your tea!
Having checked out of the hostel the following morning, we walked up the road to the Thermal Reserve and spent a few hours soaking up the sun in the 'thermal pools' (natural) and the 'hot pools' (man-made). The weather was fantastic and it was so hot that I ended up having to cool off in the normal swimming pool, all the time trying to hide my hideous looking skin - I'm not sure if it was just co-incidence that each time I stepped into a pool, other people began to leave!
Having exhausted our small supply of newspapers and magazines, we spent half an hour in the steam room after lunch. After a quick dip in the freezing plunge pool we got ready for our massages. The masseusse kindly mixed me up an oil containing lavendar and tea-tree to help soothe my skin, which she then insisted I took away with me. Both of us thoroughly enjoyed the massage and wished we'd booked for an hour rather than just a half.
Feeling suitably refreshed and chilled out we set off, mid-afternoon, on the journey to Kaikoura on the east coast.
Andrea and Dan
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