After an eleven hour flight we landed in Bangkok just before 4pm. We decided to join the locals and get a train to Hua Lamphong Station in the centre of the city which looked quite close to our hotel on the map. Whilst waiting for the train I undid my rucksack only to hear a big thud as a 2kg weight fell out onto the platform (thanks Grant for that!). Unfortunatley once Dan had deposited our respective 2kg gifts in the bin (much to the confusion of a couple of nearby locals) our rucksacks didn't suddenly seem much lighter - we're already deciding what to keep at home when we come back at Christmas!
Anyway once we arrived at the station in Bangkok, we decided to walk to our hotel...over an hour later, sweat pouring off us, backs aching and tempers beginning to fray, we eventually found the Grand China Princess, China Town. Despite this we were still both in awe of the sights, sounds and smells that assaulted us as we weaved through the street vendors, cafeterias and neon signs.
A couple of hours later after hot baths and marvelling at the fantastic view across the city from our balcony, we both felt a lot happier! We ate in the revolving restaurant on the 25th floor and watched as a fantastic thunderstorm took place around us.
On our first day we were 'befriended' by a tuk tuk driver who offered to take us round a lot of the main tourist attractions. Whilst we did see some pretty temples (or 'Wats' as they are known here) it quickly became evident that we were indeed being taken for a ride - it seemed that in order for us to visit one of the sites we wanted to, we had to first of all endure the endless sales patter of gem store, cashmere store and tourist office managers. Nonetheless it was a great experience to ride on a tuk tuk (and we lived to tell the tale) and we got a whole day's travel for well under 1GBP! One of the temples we stopped at was Wat Phra Kaeo and the Grand Palace - we were both blown away by the intricacy of the patterns on all the monuments - they really are a stunning sight and the buildings are incredibly pretty. We also saw the much revered Emerald Budha, which is just 75cm tall and sits 11m up inside one of the temples.
That evening we took a cruise up the Chao Phraya River where we had a buffet meal while taking in the sights of Bangkok from the river - it's a really pretty city at night, when you can't see all the ramshackle buildings!
We checked out of the Grand China Princess on Tuesday morning and headed across the city to Thanon Wisut Kasat ( a street which sits underneath one of the many flyovers) and found our base for the next four nights - The Trang Hotel, it's certainly not quite as smart as our previous accommodation, but it's fine.
That afternoon we took a walk to Wat Sakhet (the Golden Mount). The temple itself was nothing spectacular, but the views from the top were pretty good. We then found our way to Khao San Road (which is where most backpackers tend to hang out). It's full of cheap accommodation, bars, restaurants and street vendors - not to mention tuk tuk drivers who hassle you every couple of minutes!). Had a few beers and then found a restaurant where Dan bizarrely received a plateful of octopus (it seems that whatever you order in Thailand, in this case chicken with noodles, you are still served up something seafoody or fishy - much to Dan's delight!)
We got up very early on Wednesday morning to go to the Damnoeksaduak floating market. Whilst the actual market was well worth seeing we were both disappointed that the 7 hour trip we had signed up for included just one hour at the intended destination. In addition we were ferried to coconut plants, handicraft factories and the supposed 'Best Snake Show in the World' all with the sole purpose of getting us to part with our cash.
Quite relieved to eventually get back to the hotel (our mini bus driver seemed to be trying to emulate Nigel Mansell on roads which contained some of the biggest pot holes you have ever seen!), we decided to visit Wat Pho in the afternoon. The temple was once again magnificent and we saw the famous Reclining Budha which is immense at 15m high and 45m long. Within the grounds of Wat Pho there is a Thai massage school, so Dan and I decided to try a massage. We both had an hour's full body massage - at first I thought the lady massaging me was trying to injure me (there are no stroking movements, only pressure, and I mean pressure!) Your limbs are pushed and pulled into positions that you never thought were physically possible - all the same it was an enjoyable experience.
That night we ate in the hotel - I had a Thai green curry which was fantastic (Lloyd Grossman eat your heart out!). Meanwhile Dan was struggling through another plate of fishy based stuff (disguised as chicken on the menu!). Next it was off to Patpong to witness a bit of Thai nightlife. We went into a couple of bars where we were 'entertained' by 'girls' clad in swimming costumes who 'danced' on the bar. All in all it was pretty sad really - a lot of them looked incredibly awkward (they looked as if they would rather be anywhere else). The prettier girls were actually boys/men, while the real women looked pretty rough! In the end, we didn't get to see one of the shows that we had heard so much about (and were promised at the door) so we left, once again feeling a bit ripped off. Nevertheless, again I felt that it was another interesting experience.
After a lazy morning yesterday, we headed off to Vimanmek Mansion (a huge house built entirely of teak) in the afternoon. We watched a show of tradional Thai dance which was pretty good - the dancing is very gentle and fairly tame, but the costumes are spectacular. I then had a look around the mansion - Dan didn't fancy wearing the sarong that he was asked to put on in order to cover up before entering the building.
Last night we went to the Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium to see Muay Thai boxing. It was a great night out - the Thais are passionate about the sport and the crowd noise was thunderous. As the fighting intensifies, the band (which plays all the way through) plays faster and faster and faster. Money changes hands in the crowd at break-neck speed as they all place their bets and it's an amazing spectacle to sit back and watch all the gesturing as the locals become more and more animated. The work-rate of the actual boxers is really impressive and nothing seems to hurt them.
We're going to go to a snake farm this afternoon, where they produce the anti-venom for local clinics and hospitals. We check out tomorrow and then head down south to the beachy areas for a little bit of rest and relaxation!
All in all, whilst Bangkok has definitely been well worth visiting we both feel disappointed that there does seem to be a lot of people who's sole aim is to rip off tourists. As such we've become very cynical towards anyone who has been friendly to us, which is a bit of a shame really.
Andrea and Dan
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