15 hours, 3 trains to Fort Cochin
Kochi,
Kerala,
India
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
OOTY to Cochin
From the mountain town of Ooty in Tamil NAdu to the Southwest coast of India and the town of Fort Cochin.
The first part of the journey was spectacular en route to Cochin. The little toy train, part of a World Heritage Site in the Nilgiris National Park where I did the horse trek through, was an absolutely stunning 3.5 hours down the mountain on adorable miniature train. I also was lucky enough to share the open air blue painted wood compartment with a cute newlywed couple from Oz. We had a great time snapping a zillion pictures, inhaling what I think was biodiesel and taking in the beauty. The scenery change from the high mountains to coconut covered sea level was just spectacular.
Arriving in Metypalyum, we realised we all were traveling to same place so here I lucked out with some partners in crime - always good to make some new travel friends especially when you have an overnight train ride ahead. We crammed onto the right train from Metapalyum to Coimbatre. People were pushing, fighting and the sense of unnecessary urgency that permeates many situations here, lived on. Fortunately we all, about 5 of us "westerners", got a few seats together. Note, window seats are key to have some fresh air! So, another few hours to Coimbatre then a 5 hour wait and a final 6 hour 1am train to Cochin. Exhausted by 9pm in Coimbatre, we grabbed some food, killed time and got to the point of delirious slaphappy laughing as we sat and the urine smelling platform. Nah, it was all good fun despite the smell and also a relief when the a flower seller plopped down their divine smelling bags of jasmine.
The Oz couple, both teachers now on a 2 month honeymoon to India (how cool, eh?), decided to take the same train as me. This actually was a relief. In the 5 hours of waiting, a security guard, with his HUGE rifle came over and sat next to me... yep, always, always ME! He chats and wants to see my ticket. although I wonder why, I give it to him as he seems nice enough. He says, wow, 29????? Yep another one shocked by my age. Everyone flips when they find out I am not 21. Sort of funny I must say as 30 is so close ;). Anyways, worked out as he ended up helping us find our spot on the sleeper car and made sure guards were nearby me (is this good or bad I still wonder?). Seems like a ton of security in India but people generally seem very safe and friendly here regardless so I wonder if the security deters bad behaviour (hate to admit but the guns are really scary) or is it all unnecessary?
The nice Oz couple watched my bag overnight as I slept on the top bunk - not really a bunk as there are 3 metal benches with a thin pad that push out from the wall and hang. As I got ready to sleep I realise I am the only woman other than the newlywed from Oz. It is all men... usually is the case and although I don't feel unsafe, it is a little unsettling because I know how intrigued/fascinated all men here I have met to date have been and I wonder if it is tempting for them to see this woman sleeping alone. Anyways, the guards sat right below me basically and my new friends were nearby so I felt find. And, I ignored the cockroach walking overhead, said a quick "Dear God, please don't let a nasty nuclear proof cockroach crawl in my ear or nose or..." and went to sleep for about 5 hours.
COCHIN
Gosh, I ramble, don't I? Okay, don't answer. This journal is for my own fading memory and maybe some of your entertainment and its free, so no complaints okay? :)
Arrived in Cochin 6am, grabbed an auto to the ferry, had a delicious fresh chai tea for 10 rupees, met another traveler, hopped on the ferry in ERnakulum and landed in Fort Cochin by 7am. Ah, now where? A few places were full but I fortunately landed at a splendid homestay (basically big new house where a family lives and has built extra rooms to rent out, not always new though). It is called Orion Homestay and is a gorgeous, terra cotta covered home that is brand new and so clean I could just kiss it. Sorry, was really happy though to find it! They gave me a deal on a room and I was so happy. I quickly learned that it is high season in Kerala and not in Tamil Nadu so things fill up fast. First day, met a nice Canadian couple about my parent's age and we ended up relaxing poolside for a break. Then, headed off to dinner. This couple and another older Canadian woman asked me to join them. Then, a guy at a nearby table was also sitting near us, but alone, and they recognized him from the hostel. So, I invite him over to join us.
We had a great seafood dinner, some "special tea' (this is secret word for beer as they can't serve it openly) and headed back to the homestay walking through the cute streets of Cochin together. Then, someone had a wild hair to go dancing, it was Valentine's Day ... so, we headed off as the most eclectic group ever to find some ambiguous located dance. Oh, but first the older Canadian woman wanted us to stop at the fish stall to pick up her new friend. WE assumed he would be 60 or so, nope, about 20. So, here we had the driver of a huge SUV (very rare here), Ridwan from Bangladesh mid 30s front seat, Canadian couple my parents age and other Canadian woman in middle, and the 20 year old thrown in back with me. GRRRREEEAAAT! Here I spend my days finding body and mind space from younger boys bothering me and I get to be in centimeters of a young, hormonal one. Okay, sorry, this may not be nice, but I am being very honest. Our first stop I switched seats with Ridwan just to avoid ANY confusion.
In brief, after an hour driving, the dance was closed, as was a second option so our silly, teen on a mission to find a party mode was crushed and we ended up with the standard "special tea pots" at spot back in town. Oh well, we tried and wasted money in meantime. Made for a funny memory.
The next day in Cochin I just explored around town and I will skip to the high/lowlight: my first aruvyedic massage. For those who are uncomfortable with nudity, this is so not for you!I have tried hammams in Morocco and other local customary bathing practices, but this, oh this was beyond my comfort zone. One of those, once in a lifetime moments. Aruvyedic massage is intended to really be amazing for circulation, etc.. but this was a little less than I hoped for medically and a bit more than I hoped for otherwise. Let's just say... two women massaging EVERY aspect of your body for a full hour with heavy oil while you lay on a dark mat in a dark room on the floor completely naked. Yep. Oh, and imagine those few yoga moves you feel funny doing with clothes on, yep, add that to the mix. Let's just say, any vanity or insecurity of the body tis gone. Funny, funny experience. I will only do another one with a certified "doctor" so I know it is actually worth it. Ridwan had one next door at same time and we both were laughing about the experience after. He clarified his the day before was NOT like that! Ha. All part the experience. That night we explored the walk along the beach and the sunset was so colorful and complex I wished I could have painted it. It was the deepest red, orange and just dripping with color. I loved it. Afterwards we had delicious freshly caught fish cooked on the grills outside by the beach just next to the Chinese fishing nets. Really a great evening.
was great as Ridwan and I explored town on bikes, laughed as we were informed no lassis (yogurt with fruit drinks) were available due to a curd strike (note, there was no strike, but the kid didn't want to go buy yogurt!), and took our bikes by ferry to explore a nearby Vypeen Island. We headed over on the crowded ferry with cars, motorcycles, bikes and pedestrians. 5 minutes later on the other side of the straight. We didn't know which beach to go to but we decided to attempt the one 8km away vs. 25km away. It was great fun as we strolled by the friendliest people ever! Everyone said, hi, how are you? and was so sweet waving. We conjectured they must not see many tourists on the "other side" of the water. It was great. We found a sweet little beach, parked our tattered bikes under the one shady palm and headed to the nice sandy beach. I thought it was secluded enough to maybe, just maybe where a bikini top with my pants (note, Indian woman do not wear western swimsuits but instead wear a saree in the water and westerners generally shouldn't wear suits around Indians, etc.. out of respect unless a very touristy area). No one was in site at first, but soon there was traffic passing by on foot and bike. Okay, my tan is not that important! After relaxing and watching the fisherman far, far offshore, we biked our way back to the ferry and landed back in Cochin for one more night.
