Finding the Karen Tribe & learning to cook Lisu
Trip Start
Oct 09, 2007
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69
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Trip End
Ongoing
The night before, Albert and Susanon showed us a documentary that was made about the Lisu people and Albert and Susanon's homestay program.
It was so interesting, learning about the Lisu people: they are from Tibet, who migrated to the hills of northern Thailand, away from Chinese oppression. The village that we were staying in, outside of Sappong, has only been in this area for the last 50 years. We also learned that it was the Lisu people who discovered the Long Neck tribe (the tribe that has those extended long necks with rings around them).
They found them, on their way here, and brought many of them with them as "tourist attractions". Which was quite interesting to think that even hilltribe people can think the same way as a capitalist westerner. This peaked our interest: Longnecks..that were just maybe 10 or so miles away!
Well, in town, we were told that Longnecks were part of the Karen Tribe. I think we got bad information as this story will unfold, but as such, we asked our Lisu family where we could find this Karen tribe:
They told us that they lived in a very remote part of the other side of the valley. Since we had a motorbike, we thought: DAY ADVENTURE! TO FIND THE KAREN VILLAGE. Albert said he didnt know too much about them, but that this guy John knew, and we could find him at Cave Lodge a few kilometers down. Perfect, so we went to find John.
Cave lodge is SO COOL, and if we werent on the hunt to find this village, we would have done this cave called LOD cave. Look it up! http://www.cavelodge.com/
Its amazing!
Cavers and adventurers come from all over the world just to see this cave... we should have taken the hint, but since we just did a cave the day before, we really wanted to see Long Necks!
Anyways, John was really helpful and got our hopes up by telling us that a wedding was being celebrated there that very day, and that we should have a fantastic time. Oh boy!
So, taking his rough directions, we drove ourselves up there: through the narliest off-roading we have done yet!
We even drove the motorbike over a wooden bridge. Hilarious. Well, we found the village. The village was like we expected, but no wedding in site. No people for that matter: well, no people with long necks!
We really enjoyed the ride. But, after walking around a bit, and a few ladies coming out to sell me there stuff, we decided to leave. There MUST have been a wedding SOMEWHERE, because there were just a few people around the village... oh well, although we didnt see any Long NEcks, it was clear that practically NO westerners come up here -especially without a guide... So, we were really glad that we made it to someplace so remote.
When we drove back to town, we found that waterring hole that we couldnt find yesterday! Its so funny, because its RIGHT NEAR the house! HAHA! :D So, after a dip, we finally made it back to our homestay.
That night we came back to learn how to cook more Lisu Food. Earlier that day, Susanon went to the forest to gather the greens, while Albert went and got some pork ribs for Mathew! It was really neat, peeling all the beans one by one and chopping up all the greens she found in the forest (like tree flowers).
We even learned how to make sticky rice in bamboo! Its an amazing way to cook it, and it tastes great! Susanon told us that her grandfather had to cook rice in bamboo, because they had no pots to cook in, when the village was running away from the Chinese in Tibet.
That night, we all sat around the bonfire that Albert made for us, talking about our day and Lisu history and lifestyle. While Albert was explaining that they were saving the big pig for there son's wedding that was coming up in a couple months, Susanon discreetly grabbed a chicken, killed it, and prepared it for the next mornings breakfast. That was life at this Lisu house.
You can hear the crackle of the fire and the crickets. Its so nice here, quiet and scerene... except at 3:00 in the morning when all the roosters of the village play telephone!
trying to find the Karen Tribe
It was so interesting, learning about the Lisu people: they are from Tibet, who migrated to the hills of northern Thailand, away from Chinese oppression. The village that we were staying in, outside of Sappong, has only been in this area for the last 50 years. We also learned that it was the Lisu people who discovered the Long Neck tribe (the tribe that has those extended long necks with rings around them).
trying to find the Karen Tribe
They found them, on their way here, and brought many of them with them as "tourist attractions". Which was quite interesting to think that even hilltribe people can think the same way as a capitalist westerner. This peaked our interest: Longnecks..that were just maybe 10 or so miles away!
wooden bridge!
Well, in town, we were told that Longnecks were part of the Karen Tribe. I think we got bad information as this story will unfold, but as such, we asked our Lisu family where we could find this Karen tribe:
10-trying to find the Karen Tribe
They told us that they lived in a very remote part of the other side of the valley. Since we had a motorbike, we thought: DAY ADVENTURE! TO FIND THE KAREN VILLAGE. Albert said he didnt know too much about them, but that this guy John knew, and we could find him at Cave Lodge a few kilometers down. Perfect, so we went to find John.
Karen Village
Karen Village
Cave lodge is SO COOL, and if we werent on the hunt to find this village, we would have done this cave called LOD cave. Look it up! http://www.cavelodge.com/
Its amazing!
Karen Village
Cavers and adventurers come from all over the world just to see this cave... we should have taken the hint, but since we just did a cave the day before, we really wanted to see Long Necks!
Karen Village
Anyways, John was really helpful and got our hopes up by telling us that a wedding was being celebrated there that very day, and that we should have a fantastic time. Oh boy!
So, taking his rough directions, we drove ourselves up there: through the narliest off-roading we have done yet!
Karen Village
We even drove the motorbike over a wooden bridge. Hilarious. Well, we found the village. The village was like we expected, but no wedding in site. No people for that matter: well, no people with long necks!
driving back from karen Village
16-driving back from karen Village
A really old lady crawled out of her house to show me her knitting. Amazing work, and vibrant colors, so I bought myself a scarf from her. AGAIN - I wish i wasnt so hung up about taking pics of people! She had that face that said a thousand words.... se la vi. The view, again, was beautiful. driving back from karen Village
We really enjoyed the ride. But, after walking around a bit, and a few ladies coming out to sell me there stuff, we decided to leave. There MUST have been a wedding SOMEWHERE, because there were just a few people around the village... oh well, although we didnt see any Long NEcks, it was clear that practically NO westerners come up here -especially without a guide... So, we were really glad that we made it to someplace so remote.
driving back from karen Village
When we drove back to town, we found that waterring hole that we couldnt find yesterday! Its so funny, because its RIGHT NEAR the house! HAHA! :D So, after a dip, we finally made it back to our homestay.
15-relaxing at the swimming hole
relaxing at the swimming hole
That night we came back to learn how to cook more Lisu Food. Earlier that day, Susanon went to the forest to gather the greens, while Albert went and got some pork ribs for Mathew! It was really neat, peeling all the beans one by one and chopping up all the greens she found in the forest (like tree flowers).
Cooking traditional Lisu meal
We even learned how to make sticky rice in bamboo! Its an amazing way to cook it, and it tastes great! Susanon told us that her grandfather had to cook rice in bamboo, because they had no pots to cook in, when the village was running away from the Chinese in Tibet.
making sticky rice out of bamboo!
making sticky rice out of bamboo!
making sticky rice out of bamboo!
making sticky rice out of bamboo!
making sticky rice out of bamboo!
making sticky rice out of bamboo!
That night, we all sat around the bonfire that Albert made for us, talking about our day and Lisu history and lifestyle. While Albert was explaining that they were saving the big pig for there son's wedding that was coming up in a couple months, Susanon discreetly grabbed a chicken, killed it, and prepared it for the next mornings breakfast. That was life at this Lisu house.
our meal!
Susanon teaching us to cook Lisu food
You can hear the crackle of the fire and the crickets. Its so nice here, quiet and scerene... except at 3:00 in the morning when all the roosters of the village play telephone!
chilis!
bonfires at night


