DAY 02 - 124km - 8 hours - Lai Chau to Muong Lay
Apr 01, 2010
Beautiful scenic route through the mountains. Had some minor problem en-route of readjusting the bags at the bike, they were unevenly fixed and I was sitting uncomfortably waysides. Still perfecting the art of it! We were rained on just a little after that and got to wear for the first time our very sexy rainproof gear. Stopped in a small village called Sin Ho for lunch, and apart from a lovely family that shared their lunch with us, the typical Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup), we found the locals quite unsympathetic. We were weary of what we were being fed as many food joints there served dog meat. Minskette didn't give us any problems, it was a smooth ride all the way to Muong Lay, apart from the last 20km of pure dirt and mud roads. A few mud slides made it very unpractical and difficult to navigate, especially with all our bags and both of us on the bike. Muong Lay was weird, a ghost-like town, a post-hurricane atmosphere to it, houses destroyed (purposefully). Found the only hotel recommended in our guide, it sat in the middle of the valley, surrounded by garage land paradise. Our room directly overlooking this strange scene: piles of wood on one side, rows of toilet seats on the other, the hotel being torn to pieces, dismantled and all the reusable parts carefully sorted through. Muong Lay will be flooded in 5 months. The hotel personnel turned out to be most unfriendly, our overpriced rent for the room went up overnight, so there was a big fuss the next morning when we left. We would recommend avoiding Muong Lay!