Tranquilo
Trip Start
Nov 24, 2005
1
12
40
Trip End
May 21, 2006
Leaving Xela made me surprisingly sad for a brief moment. It is easy to get attached to a place where the waitress at your favourite cafe knows your order before you speak and the gas station attendents smile and hola everytime you pass. But at last we were on our way to Lago Atitlan, a lake often described as the most beautiful in the world. Lofty claims indeed. Difficult not to be a little excited about new places like that.
As we turned off the Centroamericano highway and descended swiftly my neck was craned, eyes eagerly searching for a first peek of water. First glimpses encountered I was underimpressed to say the least. While certainly an emmense lake surrounded by green hills it was nothing approaching the wonderous magic I had been led to expect. But in all the fairness, the weather was dull. Big grey clouds covering the sky threatening rain. Not a ray of sunshine to be had
Undeterred we managed to enjoy our first night at the lake in a little village called Panajechal. Delicious tofu burgers, a few laughs with the vendor children and leisurely strolls past the endless displays of handicrafts. In general, blissfully happy to be somewhere new.
The next morning Chris and I rose early for for a walk which commenced at the water front. Suddenly the lofty claims all made sense. The sun glistening on the water, the abundently green volcanos rising majestically along the shores and the sky a cloudless shade of blue. Together they formed a striking trichormatic scene of serenity.
It is quite possibly too much Harry Potter on the brain but it seemed the sort of enchanted locale where one could find mermaids frolicking beneath the surface and giants inhabiting the valleys between volcano cones.
A lancha across the lake brought us to San Pedro. Abundent cheap accomodation right on the lake. And the restaurants. Huge garden salads slathered in basil dressing. Falafels, hummus and pita bread
We were in the town five seconds before receiving our first offer of horseback riding so a three hour morning excursion was easily arranged. Our horses Gina and Rosa were wonderfully mellow beasts which suited my inexperience fittingly. We dawdled along the trail past fields of onion, avocado and coffee. Even managed to get into a gallop for a brief few seconds near the end but my saddlesore butt was not happy with that riding strategy so I quickly returned to a slower and less jarring pace.
Having been advised many times that the Iguana Perdida in Santa Cruz, another lakeside village, is not to be missed it became our next destination. A relaxing hostel with dramatic views a perfect place to do nothing at all really. We expressed amazement at the scenery, took countless pictures and did litle else but drink beer, eat and chat with fellow guests for our day there. A brief flurry of activity found us at the end of a steep uphill in the main village of Santa Cruz itself. No tourist facilities, simply Guatemaltecans going about their daily lives. And dozens of adorable children sometimes yelling Hello! Hello! but mostly too shy to do anything but stare as we passed.
Reluctantly we departed this tranquil piece of Guatemala. But certain we will be back before our time in this country ends.
As we turned off the Centroamericano highway and descended swiftly my neck was craned, eyes eagerly searching for a first peek of water. First glimpses encountered I was underimpressed to say the least. While certainly an emmense lake surrounded by green hills it was nothing approaching the wonderous magic I had been led to expect. But in all the fairness, the weather was dull. Big grey clouds covering the sky threatening rain. Not a ray of sunshine to be had
01_The scene our first morning at Lago Atitlan
.Undeterred we managed to enjoy our first night at the lake in a little village called Panajechal. Delicious tofu burgers, a few laughs with the vendor children and leisurely strolls past the endless displays of handicrafts. In general, blissfully happy to be somewhere new.
The next morning Chris and I rose early for for a walk which commenced at the water front. Suddenly the lofty claims all made sense. The sun glistening on the water, the abundently green volcanos rising majestically along the shores and the sky a cloudless shade of blue. Together they formed a striking trichormatic scene of serenity.
It is quite possibly too much Harry Potter on the brain but it seemed the sort of enchanted locale where one could find mermaids frolicking beneath the surface and giants inhabiting the valleys between volcano cones.
A lancha across the lake brought us to San Pedro. Abundent cheap accomodation right on the lake. And the restaurants. Huge garden salads slathered in basil dressing. Falafels, hummus and pita bread
02_The view during breakie
. And avocados come with absolutely everything should you want. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.We were in the town five seconds before receiving our first offer of horseback riding so a three hour morning excursion was easily arranged. Our horses Gina and Rosa were wonderfully mellow beasts which suited my inexperience fittingly. We dawdled along the trail past fields of onion, avocado and coffee. Even managed to get into a gallop for a brief few seconds near the end but my saddlesore butt was not happy with that riding strategy so I quickly returned to a slower and less jarring pace.
Having been advised many times that the Iguana Perdida in Santa Cruz, another lakeside village, is not to be missed it became our next destination. A relaxing hostel with dramatic views a perfect place to do nothing at all really. We expressed amazement at the scenery, took countless pictures and did litle else but drink beer, eat and chat with fellow guests for our day there. A brief flurry of activity found us at the end of a steep uphill in the main village of Santa Cruz itself. No tourist facilities, simply Guatemaltecans going about their daily lives. And dozens of adorable children sometimes yelling Hello! Hello! but mostly too shy to do anything but stare as we passed.
Reluctantly we departed this tranquil piece of Guatemala. But certain we will be back before our time in this country ends.


