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Istanbul.. Constantinople
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We arrived in Istanbul in the evening and were expressed to our hotel at well over the speed limit but we didn't care. As soon as the driver turned off into the cobbled streets of Sultanahmet we knew we were on a winner. After we'd checked in the porter offered to show us the rooftop terrace and wow the view! The Blue Mosque to the left, the Haghia Sophia to the right and the Bosphorus behind us. Better still it was warm.
After a late dinner we were woken early by the call to prayer at 0430 from the Blue Mosque 200 metres away from our window. We did get back to sleep but it took a while and when the alarm went off we were both a bit bleary eyed. The hotel's roof terrace was just as amazing by day and after a quick breakfast we decided to visit the Blue Mosque first, before Friday prayers.
As usual Dean was picked out from the crowd and offered fast track entry to the Mosque by a man who's cousin happened to work on the worshipers only door and who, by an amazing coincidence!!! had a carpet shop just around the corner. We tried to hide from him when we came out but why oh why is Dean so tall and noticeable? Once we had escaped from said shop, after many admiring comments obviously, we found ourselves in the Arasta Bazaar but soon realised that even pausing to look in a window equalled a commitment to buy!
Having got into shopping mode, we found a shop selling the most beautiful glass mosaic lamps and were soon parting with some Lire. After a good haggle, we were the proud owners of 1 light (which now we're home, we're not even sure we'll be able to put up!) and 2 lanterns. Still they look lovely.
Moving on to the Haghia Sophia after a long lunch, it was great to see one of the largest internal scaffold towers we'd ever seen... surrounded by one of the most amazing buildings. Seriously though, the sheer height of the dome was astounding, especially when you think how old it is.
Outside we joined the throngs of tourists in the area between Istanbul's greatest buildings - it's not often you get 2 such famous buildings so close to each other - turn one way and you're looking at the Mosque, the other and its the Haghia.
We had dinner on another roof terrace overlooking the sights with a kebab and a bottle of Chateau Bosphorus but only after 10 minutes watching the local Polis closing a road because some idiot had left his luggage somewhere and just walked away!
The following day we headed to the Topkapi Palace. En route Dean found an excavation of what had once been the guest palace - didn't stay too long as there was water dripping from the earth above us! Topkapi was crowded and noisy at times but actually really interesting - those Sultans certainly knew how to live. The 86 carat Spoonmaker's Diamond caught Alex's eye but Dean was having none of it. Have to say that looking at some of the Ming Dynasty porcelain, you'd have thrown it out. In fact we think we may have done when clearing out Dean's mum's house!
Another lovely dinner at the Antique Turquoise Restaurant with a traditional Turkish dish - Testi Kebab - cooked over a fire in a clay pot which is then broken at your table to release the delicious meat. By now, we were only waking very briefly at 0430 (amazing how quickly you get used to something) so were up bright early on Sunday morning only to find that the rest of the city didn't wake up until about 1100! Streets that previously had been heaving with people and it all felt a bit eerie. Needless to say we got lost and had to ask for help and a very kind man who didn't speak any English but understood a finger pointed at the map obviously went out of his way to get us to the Suleymaniye Mosque. Pity it was 98% closed as the climb up the hill was a killer but at least Dean had his shoes shined by a man who seemed very worried that they were dirty.
We got robbed (not literally) by a taxi driver on the journey to the Galata Bridge but I suppose it shows some things are the same no matter where you are in the world. We crossed the bridge by tram on our way to the Dolmabahce Palace which was worth it when we got inside but what a complicated process. First you queue to buy tickets (and they expect you to know what bits you want to see once you get inside!) and then you queue again to join one of the tour groups as you can't go in on your own. The tour was pretty rushed (got outside only to read the guide and realise we'd missed a famous painting by "an important Turkish painter") and they weren't keen on dawdlers but it was worth it to see the chandeliers alone. Have to say the Harem isn't nearly as impressive as the state rooms, and the tour there was even quicker, so you're short on time, skip this bit.
Next step Asia. We caught a ferry to Uskudar on the Asian side of the Bosphorus and walked and walked and walked down to Harem. This felt different to the European side with really nice laid-back feel and, of course, stunning views of the city across the water.
For our last day, we hit the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar but only after a cooling visit to the Basilica Cistern. This beautifully lit and hugely atmospheric place is the ideal antidote to too much sun.
The Grand Bazaar was a bit too touristy for us, although we bought some lovely plates and the streets outside were more interesting, but the Spice Bazaar was loads better. Terrific smells from all of the spices which were just piled high. Dean wanted some Harrisa paste; the stallholder took one look at his face as he tasted the supposedly milder one of three and wouldn't even let him try the spicier version! We bought loads though and all for really good prices. Wish we could do that at home.
We finished with a Bosphorus mini cruise which was good as by then neither of us could have walked another step.
All in all we had a great weekend and wouldn't hesitate to recommend Istanbul as a "must see" destination.
Where I stayed:
Amargrandi Spina
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