Robben Island, Kalk Bay and Muizenberg
Trip Start
Jun 14, 2008
1
8
12
Trip End
Jun 29, 2008
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Muizenberg,
South Africa
Monday, June 23, 2008
The tour guide told us a story about how other buses were purchased when the island first became a museum, but only this original bus was still working. The bus took us around the island and we learned a bit about it's history. It had first served as an institution for the mentally ill and diseased. Lepers were sent there (and buried there) to keep them away from the general population. The island was also used for military purposes. During World War II, the British had posts on the Island although it they never saw any combat.
The island is mostly known as a prison and became notorious as the place Nelson Mandela, and other prominent apartheid opposition leaders, were held. During apartheid, political prisoners were sent to the Island, many facing a life sentence for treason or attempts to overthrow the government. We saw the lime quarry where Mandela had worked and were told a story about how he and his fellow prisoners used the time they spent in that quarry to educate each other.
Prison on Robben Island
The tour guide also told us how the prison administrators decided to keep the political leaders isolated from the general population. Their logic was to prevent the leaders from influencing other prisoners. Seems like a questionable decision - putting the most intelligent and talented prisoners together to discuss future plans. Hard to believe such a place existed less than 20 years ago. A former political prisoner led the second half of the tour. He was imprisoned 6 years (released in 1991) after being convicted for treason in 1984 and sentenced to life in prison. He described life in the prison, including 3 months in isolation where he said he counted ants as they made their way across his cell floor to pass the time. Jamie and I noted how lucky we were to take the tour while men like him were still around and willing to share their experience. Future tourists won't have that opportunity as the years pass. Hopefully their stories won't be lost.
After our tour of Robben Island, we then rented a car with a plan to explore the Cape Peninsula. We had a rough plan to take Chapman's Peak down to the Cape of Good Hope and back up the eastern peninsula. We picked up the car around 2 PM. As we headed out of Cape Town we started to realize how beautiful a place it really was. The mountain side had homes built right into it that lead down to the long golden beaches and crashing waves. I couldn't help imagining myself waking up in one of those homes every day - what a life that would be.
We made our way to the Chapman's Peak only to discover the road was closed for fallen rocks. We were disappointed; other travelers had told us it was beautiful and not to be missed. With our plans changed, we decided to drive straight to Muizenberg. It was a nice drive through the mountains.
We ended up in Kalk Bay - a little harbor town - and stopped for some coffee at a gorgeous restaurant right on the water. We sat there for awhile just taking in the view. Next we headed to Muizenberg where we planned to stay the night. I was surprised how close these little towns were to eachother. The map gave the impression that these little beach towns were far apart, but in fact they ran into each other one after the other. Reminded me somewhat of the Hamptons.
The night ended well with a great dinner at a seafood restaurant on the water. We stayed at a backpackers lodge in Muizenberg that was more like staying in someone's home. It was nice but the owner was more interested in charging us for every little thing than ensuring a good stay. She made a point to tell us that coffee was free of charge but not the milk for the coffee!! We were happy to leave there and in the morning made our way to the Cape of Good Hope
